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rock pattern
- Thread starter HikoIto
- Start date
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2004
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- 38,522
Do you mean a blade that looks "knapped", like an arrowhead.
Sometimes I use a 2" contact wheel ( mostly the edge of it).....but most of the time I use a large carbide ball burr in a flexshaft. To clean the divots up after grinding them in, I use a cratex wheel in the flexshaft. After HT, I use a Scotch Brite belt or wheel, then etch for a mottled gray color and "stone" look. I have had good luck with O-1 and BG-42 on this style blade. Somewhere in the shop I have a box of ones ready for final sanding and HT. I'll have to look for them.
Using those techniques I used make 3-4" blades that are fitted to bear jaw bones and make rustic "Indian" looking knives for a bear hunter customer. A fringed dear hide sheath is a requisite. With a little work the blade edge can be sharpened into a pretty good general use cutter that is sort of wave edged/serrated. The alternate method is to only "knap" the upper part and leave the actual edge normal.
Sometimes I use a 2" contact wheel ( mostly the edge of it).....but most of the time I use a large carbide ball burr in a flexshaft. To clean the divots up after grinding them in, I use a cratex wheel in the flexshaft. After HT, I use a Scotch Brite belt or wheel, then etch for a mottled gray color and "stone" look. I have had good luck with O-1 and BG-42 on this style blade. Somewhere in the shop I have a box of ones ready for final sanding and HT. I'll have to look for them.
Using those techniques I used make 3-4" blades that are fitted to bear jaw bones and make rustic "Indian" looking knives for a bear hunter customer. A fringed dear hide sheath is a requisite. With a little work the blade edge can be sharpened into a pretty good general use cutter that is sort of wave edged/serrated. The alternate method is to only "knap" the upper part and leave the actual edge normal.