Rockwell Hardness Tester purchase questions

[Destructabot]

So I happened to swing by a local one-man machinist shop to see if they had a hardness tester to test some blades. Serendipitously, the guy that runs the shop has one that he's had in storage for years and he's happy to sell it to me for really cheap (100 bucks if everything is in great working order, less if not). It's an older Wilson stand model, but I'm wondering if there are specific things that I should be looking for that would make me steer clear of it, even at a low price? I'm checking it out after I finish work today, thanks in advance for any advice!

 

[kuraki]

If it's a Wilson you can probably get parts for it if it needs anything. There isn't a whole lot that can go wrong with them. If it has a calibration block and measures it accurately I don't think you can lose for that price.

 

[Kevin McGovern]

agree with Kuraki. Since it's been in a machine shop, most likely they didn't pull parts out of it, not knowing they can be expensive to replace.

 

[PugKnifeCompany]

I have a Wilson tester i bought for cheap also. The parts are available on eBay...make sure it does Rockwell C...the penetrators are all pretty standard..so replacing isn’t a problem...there really aren’t that many moving parts to these things. For 100$ I’d jump on it!

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

For $100 or less, I would snap it up fast. Even if it never worked, it could be made into a really cool desk lamp.

 

[Don Hanson III]

Get it!!! But like said, make sure it reads C scale.

 

[Destructabot]

Thanks all for the advice! Sounds like I shouldn't have any reservations. I'll definitely make sure it measures in C and I'm just figuring I'll probably have to buy a new diamond indenter (I've read past posts on the inexpensive ones from China).

 

[PugKnifeCompany]

When I bought mine, it was testing high, after some research, I looked at the indenter with a loop, and could see the diamond was fractured. Ordered one from China on EBay, works perfectly!

 

[E.Carlson]

Get it. If he had calibration blocks be sure to try and make him find them too. Those aren't cheap.

 

[M.McAlevy]

Buy it! As stated, confirm it reads a calibrated block correctly. Getting mine was a game changer in optimizing my heat treating and quality control. I test every blade I make.

 

[Don Hanson III]

I paid $200 for this one, not working & no weights.
Not knowing anything about them, I fixed it & it's dead nuts accurate!

 

[Destructabot]

Ok, so I went and checked it out and didn't pick it up today -though still may. It was missing the anvil, penetrator, and weights. These definitely aren't deal breakers, but the electric component of it is throwing me off! Not exactly sure what to make of it (having never used one before) and can't find any information online about this model (appears to be 3QR-BB). Any insights given this? I really appreciate the help and encouragement.

 

[stezann]

Congratulations!

 

[KnuckleDownKnives]

Congrats.. I got mine in the exact same circumstances. Went to have a knife tested, he had one sitting up and sold it to me for $50. Had the meter sent off and professionally cleaned and calibrated at a Metrology lab for $60. so $110 total investment.

 

[Rickoo]

Interested in this as well. What does the electrical component of these do? Seems like it would be only mechanical. Are weights, anvils and penetrator tips easy to source? The ones I've seen seem to be missing these items.

Ok, so I went and checked it out and didn't pick it up today -though still may. It was missing the anvil, penetrator, and weights. These definitely aren't deal breakers, but the electric component of it is throwing me off! Not exactly sure what to make of it (having never used one before) and can't find any information online about this model (appears to be 3QR-BB). Any insights given this? I really appreciate the help and encouragement.

 

[Destructabot]

Interested in this as well. What does the electrical component of these do? Seems like it would be only mechanical. Are weights, anvils and penetrator tips easy to source? The ones I've seen seem to be missing these items.

I've got no idea about the electrical components, which is why I've been hemming and hawing about buying it. I know penetrators can be gotten for cheap (Chinese made diamond ones go for $15-20 on ebay) and it seems like anvils aren't too pricey. The weights are another story and seem to be rather expensive. I wonder if that's something that I could just rig up with 6.00 kg of attached weight using the 25:1 ratio that the machines seem to have...

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I would offer him $50 and grab it.

Anvils can be found pretty easily. I have several sets for my Japanese clone that I found online for almost nothing. Don't know if they fit the Wilson. One for a knife could be easily made.

I gave Kevin Cashen a NIB indicator dial mechanism I bought at an auction for $20. I see them pop up from timer to time on ebay.

The weights can be expensive to but new, but if you can borrow a set from a friend, or get him to check the exact weight of the weights and hanger - with basic shop tools and a length of 2" round stock, you can make a weight. Just make it as one weight, as we use the max 150KG weight load. (NOTE - it does not weigh 150KG). Be sure to include the hanger as part of the weight if you don't have that piece. Once cut to a slightly overweight unit, drill 1/4" holes in the bottom and sneak up on the exact weight.

 

[Destructabot]

I would offer him $50 and grab it.

Anvils can be found pretty easily. I have several sets for my Japanese clone that I found online for almost nothing. Don't know if they fit the Wilson. One for a knife could be easily made.

I gave Kevin Cashen a NIB indicator dial mechanism I bought at an auction for $20. I see them pop up from timer to time on ebay.

The weights can be expensive to but new, but if you can borrow a set from a friend, or get him to check the exact weight of the weights and hanger - with basic shop tools and a length of 2" round stock, you can make a weight. Just make it as one weight, as we use the max 150KG weight load. (NOTE - it does not weigh 150KG). Be sure to include the hanger as part of the weight if you don't have that piece. Once cut to a slightly overweight unit, drill 1/4" holes in the bottom and sneak up on the exact weight.

Thanks for the input, Stacy. Good to know to include the hanger in the weight. It looks like the total weight would be 6kg to get to the 150kg weight load so just putting a 6kg weight on a hanger and drilling out holes sounds like a good idea.