Roller pivots on production knives

And an air or oil wedge bearing even better so what we really need is to hook up our EDC to a pump or compressor for least pivot friction. Right ?
The gadget freeks are going to love this.

Psh! Backpack with full hydraulics, hose running along your arm to your wrist, automatic connection when you take the knife out and the blade is actuated with a cylinder inside the backspacer, you make a mistake of opening it too early in your pocket you lose your leg! :eek::D
 
Not the same knife , that one has ball bearings and not packed in grease . Evil but works fine . Thanks for remembering !

The roller bearing in green grease model was a real POS that had a detent that allowed the blade to sag open dangerously . Returned it long ago . But thanks for caring ! Just wanted to show the innards of a cheap knife with rollers which is thread topic . ;)
Is it a counterfeit?
 
one of the engineers argued that the friction between the steel and aluminium was enough to keep it in place.
But only if you remember to spit on the surfaces when you put it together. The salt and moisture will help get a nice electrolysis going between those two metals and they will grow together. The assembler must have missed that in his careful read through of the assembly manual.
Nothing is ever simple is it . . . life is full of traps and pit falls and roller bearings.
Stick to bronze washer's with a little super light oil, that's my strategy.

Roller bearings on a pocket knife are fun to look at though.
 
Psh! Backpack with full hydraulics, hose running along your arm to your wrist, automatic connection when you take the knife out and the blade is actuated with a cylinder inside the backspacer, you make a mistake of opening it too early in your pocket you lose your leg! :eek::D
Soon we will be discussing the best filter materials and the optimum weight oil.
 
And then there is grit getting in there. At least a ball bearing has a hope in hell of pushing it to the side. The roller just tries to roll over it and get jam-up.
 
Honestly I have some theoretical gripes about roller pin bearings. I think they are better in this type of application.

HISX-single-row-cylindrical-roller-bearing-RN204.jpg_220x220.jpg

Here is one of my favorites.
Each quadrant is aligned and adjusted with a wedge and shims (gibs).
It has to be highly sealed to outside dust though.
Fun to rebuild. One learns the term "witness mark" early on or you die of old age attempting to put it all back the way the factory assembled it.
Unknown-1.jpeg
 
The 2018 Meg Eclipse CF is listed with needle bearings, so same system.

Real Steel’s got a system abit different than the shiros where the pins have little “handles” on either end sort of like roller pins if I remember correctly.

I’ve been trying to find a picture but I can’t.
 
The 2018 Meg Eclipse CF is listed with needle bearings, so same system.
Its not the same. I have both. The eclipse is on regular ceramic bearings. The 2017 is on needle or roller bearings.

Yes you found a pic. The little “handles” are what capture the bearings.

My friend with a Megalodon says his has an extremely free action. Not hydraulic.
The 2018 eclipse on mine drops shut like a guillotine. Not so much the 2017. The difference is probably the lockbar pressure on mine which may vary from knife to knife. That and I added a drop of lube which won't be as friction free as without.

Also note the 2017 needle/roller bearings are one sided. The bearings are not visible from the other side. So the blade is the only part that rides on them. Where as a shiro or that clone will ride on both scales and blade.

Action vids of my 2018 eclipse on regular ceramic ball bearings. Way different than the earlier version.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Blt-zKQHfDo/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BlOoBy1B36Q/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BkZDBQPAdSU/
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bf9zYTPgJp6/
 
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I know what you are saying friction is independent of surface area.
But once you get lube in there, especially the grease that people insist on putting on bearings, then it makes quite a difference.
I believe someone mentioned you won't find roller bearings in a high speed assembly. They are for lower speed high load situations.
Ball bearings = high speed low drag.
And an air or oil wedge bearing even better so what we really need is to hook up our EDC to a pump or compressor for least pivot friction. Right ?
The gadget freeks are going to love this.
Sure, but you don't really need lube on ball or roller thrust bearings on a knife. You could clog bearings up with grease but why do that?
 
Sure, but you don't really need lube on ball or roller thrust bearings on a knife. You could clog bearings up with grease but why do that?
Grease and lube is to protect against corrosion and grease allows for less contamination of dust etc. The more you use will cause more friction. But at least it will be maintained.

There really isn't any reason to use one bearing type over the other. Sure needle/barrel bearings will be better for side to side forces but... At that point your abusing the knife.
 
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Sure, but you don't really need lube on ball or roller thrust bearings on a knife. You could clog bearings up with grease but why do that?

Honestly I run most my bearing knives without lube, dry.

They are slightly less smooth than if I lube them but with lube the gunk will built up and I’ll have to take it apart or clean it with zippo fluid in no time.
 
So, is this a counterfeit? If you don't think it is, I'd be very concerned about the source. Doesn't look legit to me.
Be not concerned . It was some kinda generic cheap junky Chinese crap that I doubt you will ever encounter except in a nightmare . :p
 
Lots of production knives use the IKBS. Boker Kwaiken, and HTM Bullwhip for example.

Btw IKBS isn’t a roller bearing system. Roller bearings aren’t ball bearings.

The only production knife I can think of that uses roller bearings is the Real Steel Megalodon, the newer version. Some older Shirogorovs did too.

These are roller bearings.
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469b05909b3c9ff205c70cf4fedf58fc.jpg
Thank you sir.
 
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