Rookie knife maker question

D

DiscGolfer

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Feb 15, 2007
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I would like to start practicing grinding, shaping, sharpening, etc. and am wondering if there is any reason old lawnmower blades wouldn't work for that. I don't know the differences in all the types of steel so I wasn't sure if it would be suitable. Thoughts?

Thanks!
 
Since it's not specific to Balisong-style knives, I'm going to move this to the knifemakers' discussion forum where you're more likely to get a through answer.

Hopefully, your post in the Balisong forum shows an interest in Balisong knives and you will end up making some. Come back to the Balisong forum for specific help on that.
 
You could practice on mowers blades, if you've got some lying around, but they're not ideal. The paint stirrers are good because they're pretty close to the dimensions of actual blade stock, which mower blades aren't, they're flat, which mower blades arent, and are almost free. They also wont wear out your belts or files.
I started with mower blades, but it was pretty frustrating. I went through a lot of grinding/cutting wheels, and then had a lot of trouble trying to HT the results due to the mystery mower blade steel.
Buy some O1 from Aldo Bruno, and you can transfer from the stirrers when you're comfortable. Believe me, as soon as you've ground out your first knife, no matter how good or bad it looks, you're gonna be bummed if you cant HT it and finish it. Have fun, man
 
A lot of people recommend practicing on paint sticks but I don't agree. Nothing teaches you to grind on steel like grinding on steel. Start with a real blade steel so that you will end up with real knives when you're done. They won't be pretty at first, but having a real working knife that you made is real nice even if it's a bit ugly. Certainly nicer than having some paint sticks with bevels ground on them. 1084 is cheap. JMO.

- Chris
 
Start with painter sticks and then use some cheap mild steel from a hardware store near you. You can usually get 6feet worth for around $10.
 
The reason behind stir sticks is that you can literally have an idea cut and gound out in minutes, where if you do that with steel, it takes longer and wears out your belts/files. They are great for testing designs for comfort and functionaltiy. To practice grinding bevels, I agree about using steel, but for rough prototyping use paint sticks.


-Xander
 
SpydercoLover said:
Start with painter sticks and then use some cheap mild steel from a hardware store near you. You can usually get 6feet worth for around $10.
Click to expand...

I have to disagree with this, as blade steel is hardly more expensive for the amount you'll be using. It's better just to jump right in and start trying to make a functional knife- what if you nail the grind on your first try? Then you're left with a knife-looking hunk of mild steel. It doesn't have to be perfect, just good enough. That's why we practice. I started with 1095, and my first came out quite well, though not without quite a bit of coaxing. Would've been seriously depressing if that work didn't equate to a real knife in the end. Just because there's a chance a good knife might come out of it doesn't mean it's not practice.

edit: I mocked up my first pattern using alder hobby board. Not much use for practicing bevels, but great for getting an impression of the feel of a knife, especially for the handle.
 
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Another thing is the mental part. If you are using real blade steel should increase the urge to do a better job. Even if a piece of 1084 turns out ugly it can still be hardened and used around the shop for something. Hard to beat the thrill of making a real knife even if it is ugly. Unless you go to a steel yard and get a piece of 1 1/2 x 3/16 you not going to beat Aldos price by that much.
 
I also think using any non-blade steel is wasting time. 1084 from Aldo is cheap. Any knife that comes out OK looking can be hardened and finished. Those that don't come out as well can become wall ornaments or ground down into smaller knives.
I like the guys who screw all test blades and non-successful grinding attempts to the shop wall.

Paint sticks are good for finding out what shape looks and feels right. Use the wooden knife for a template in making the steel knife.
 
Sorry Gollnick, I guess I should have been more specific. I do intend on making balisongs but wasn't clear about that in my post.

Thanks for all the responses! I've got a lot of older lawn mower blades laying around and I was really more interested at first in learning how to use the equipment more so than creating an actual knife. I have heard mention in previous posts from experienced knife makers of the different type of equipment they use to create their knives (presses, sanders, grinders, etc.) and I didn't know if working on lawn mower blades would actually give me "good practice" with those. I've actually made several blades (and even handles) out of cedar wood from dead trees on my property, so I thought I might jump in on some scrap metal and see what happens.

Thanks again for all of your responses. I will post progress photos when I have something worth showing!
 
If you plan to grind metal into knife form, I would definitely suggest buying known steel. You will know the proper heat treatment to get the most out of your knife, and you will not need to worry that after all your hard work there was some residual stress from the steels previous lifetime, such as stress fractures, cracks. The single most costly thing in making a knife is your time (unless you are using unobtainium with unicorn horn handles). Once you have invested all that time, sweat, and possibly blood, into a blade, it would be a shame to not get the most out of it with proper heat treat, and tempering.
 
+1 for just buying a couple lengths of 1084 from Aldo. Maybe one length of 1/8" and one of 3/16". You'll be much happier than trying to fight with lawn mower blades. Play with some ideas on paper, when you have a simple design you are fairly happy with post it here and let folks comment. We can offer suggestions on things that will be tough to grind or potential problems or improvements. Then go grind it. If the first one comes out even remotely close to knife like you will want to heat treat it and put a handle on it.
 
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