Rookie questions

Joined
Feb 3, 2012
Messages
87
I'm just getting into knifemaking at the ripe old age of 17, and I have a few questions to help me on my way

1. When hand sanding for a satin finish, is it best to sand from spine to edge, or from ricasso to tip?
2. Which steels are easiest to be polished, and to what degree? i.e. Which steels can take a mirror finish?
3. I currently have a 6x48 1hp belt sander to use, but I'm fairly certain it'll be too clumsy for much of what I need to do. Does anyone have experience with this: http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/sanders/1-inch-x-30-inch-belt-sander-2485.html? It would seriously cut down on belt expense as well.
4. What are the best ways to finish paper Micarta scales?
5. Though I plan on mostly making full tang knives, I love the look of hidden tangs and want to know the best way to cut the slot for the tang in the block. I've seen varying techniques, but the most viable seems to be to simply drill out a few hollows with a bit the same width as the tang, and doing a light force-fitting. Can anyone enlighten me on this subject?

Thanks in advance, hopefully I can have some pics up in a short time for critique, though that seems unlikely what with the beginning of swimming season.
 
Welcome to the forums t_davis,
The answer to all your questions is right here many times over.......
So just read & look - than read and look a lot more.....
And when you get done doing that read some more.......:p:D

Hope to see some of your knives, you're just starting - take your time and learn.

I replied to your post this way because these guys will tell you about the same thing.

Enjoy the forums, glad to have you.

Todd
 
Yep, all the information you want and much, much more is covered on here. Be on the lookout for a lengthy reply from the "Count" with a boat load of very informative links.

Also be sure to fill out your profile, at least city, state/country. There may be an experianced maker on here who live just down the road!

Enjoy your new obsession/hobby!

Welcome!


-Xander
 
I've found much of what I need by hunting through the forums and other sources, but my problem is that there has been plenty of conflicting information, and I'm not sure which to pursue, in particular the topic of hand sanding. Perhaps I'd be better off just asking for personal opinions on the matter, as it does seem technique varies widely. As far as the paper micarta goes, it seems to be a rarely used material (at least in comparison to linen, canvas, G10), so in all likelihood I'll just experiment with it.
 
Ok This wont directly answer your question, but since it's your 4th post, I'm going to give you this anyway.

I've put this together to answer most of a new maker’s questions on how to make a knife. I'm sure it will help you too. How to Instructions for making a Knife.

The Count's Standard Reply to New Knifemakers V23

The answer to a 13 year old student is different than to a 40 year old engineer.
We may recommend a local supplier, you may have a helpful neighbour, or local Hammerin; but that depends on where you are. We have members worldwide.
Please fill out your profile with your location (Country, State, City), age, education, employment, hobbies.

Look at the threads stickied at the top; many are expired, but not all.

The basic process in the simplest terms
Absolute Cheapskate Way to Start Making Knives-Printable PDF-Right Click and Save
Absolute Cheapskate Way to Start Making Knives-Website


Web Tutorials
Detailed instructions by Stacy E. Apelt

The Things I Advise New Knife Makers Against-Printable PDF
http://www.mediafire.com/?8og1ix21j9dcz4n

Handle Tutorial - Nick Wheeler-PDF

http://www.engnath.com/manframe.htm

Books
A list of books and videos

BladeForums - E-books or Google books


I like:
David Boye-Step by Step Knifemaking
Tim McCreight-Custom Knifemaking: 10 Projects from a Master Craftsman
These are clear, well organized, widely available and inexpensive too.

Knife Design:

Think thin. A paring knife slices, an axe doesn't.
Forget swords, Saw-tooth spines, guthooks, crazy grinds and folders for your first knife.

Start with a drawing.
Show it to us, we love to see and comment on photos.
Then make a cardboard cutout template & draw in handles, pins and such
Then make it in wood, paint sticks are free & close to the right size.
Play with that and see if it “feels right”. If it feels right it usually “looks right“

How to post a photo on BF
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...AL-Displaying-your-photographs-on-BladeForums

See the Google books thread for Lloyd Harding drawings, the Loveless book & Bob Engnath Patterns. Google books thread

Bob Engnath Patterns compiled into a PDF


Forging Books:
Lorelei Sims-The Backyard Blacksmith
An excellent modern book with colour photos for forging in general - no knifemaking.

Jim Hrisoulas- has 3 books on forging knives. Check for the cheaper paperback editions.
The Complete Bladesmith: Forging Your Way to Perfection
The Pattern-Welded Blade: Artistry in Iron
The Master Bladesmith: Advanced Studies in Steel

Machine Shop Basics -Books:
Elementary Machine Shop Practice-Printable PDF

The Complete Practical Machinist-Printable -1885-PDF
Right Click and save link as.
It’s being reprinted now; you can get it for $20 ish

The $50 knife Shop
It confused me for a long time.
Forging is NOT necessary; you can just file and grind to create a knife (stock removal)

Forget the Goop Quench.
Use commercial quench oil & match oil speed to the steel type; even grocery store canola oil works much better for some steels.

Junkyard steels require skill and experience to identify the steel and heat treat it properly.
Forget about Lawnmower blades and start with a new known steel type.
Good heat treating needs accurate temperature control and full quench.
You can buy proper steel like 1084FG from Aldo very cheaply.

I like cable damascus, but that advanced project has no place in a beginner’s book.

The grinders are the best thing about this book, but there is a huge amount of info for 2x72” belt grinders on the web, including free plans.


Videos

Heat Treating Basics Video-downloadable
Right click and save this. Watch it once a day for 10 days.

Safety-video
Right click and save this. Watch it once a day for 10 days.

Many specific how to knifemaking videos are available, some are better than others.

The best overall Knifemaking video I have seen is
“Steve Johnson-Making a Sub-Hilt Fighter”

Basic Bladesmithing
"Ed Caffrey - Basic Bladesmithing-Full DVD-ISO"

The best video on leather sheath making for beginners that I have seen is
“Custom Knife Sheaths -Chuck Burrows - Wild Rose”
-(Paul Long has 2 videos, his sheath work & videos are fantastic, but more advanced-with inlays, machine stitchers..)

Green Pete's Free Video
Making a Mora bushcraft knife, stock removal, hand tools, neo tribal / unplugged heat treat.
Use a piece of known steel, not a file. I just post this as an example of doing it by hand with few tools.
"Green Pete" posted it free using torrent files.
Be sure to look at the other titles too-The account index has disappeared, but search for LOTS of info. Use the keywords “LurkerLurker torrent” “knifemakerC torrent” and others
Greenpete Knifemaking Basics-on TPB

How to download that video
http://www.utorrent.com/help/guides/beginners-guide

You can see a list of videos and reviews at this rental company; some are worth buying, some renting…
http://smartflix.com/store/category/9/Knifemaking

Draw Filing Demonstration
YouTube video -Draw Filing-for a flat finish

Steel
The “welding steel” at Home Depot / Lowes… is useless for knives.
Forget about lawnmower blades ,files and other unknown junkyard steels.
For all the work involved, it is very cheap to buy and use a known good steel.

If you send out for heat treating, you can use
Oil quenched O1, 1095, 1084
Or air quenched A2, CM154, ATS34, CPM154, 440C, plus many others.

For heat treating yourself with minimal equipment, find some Eutectoid steel.
1084FG sold by Aldo Bruno is formulated for Knifemaking, Cheapest & made for DIY heat-treat.
http://njsteelbaron.com/
Phone # 862-203-8160

1095 is a good carbon steel, but a bad choice for a beginner with limited equipment.
1095 is "Hypereutectioid" and needs very precise temperature control and proper fast quench oil Like Parks 50 or Houghton K Kevin Cashen - 1095 - hypereutectoid steel

If you are sending one or 2 knives out for heat treatment, use 154-CM or CPM-154 and ship it out to TKS -Texas Knifemaker Supply
It's the cheapest way to do 1 or 2 because of HT minimum charges.


You can find a list of suppliers here

Heat Treating
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9143684&postcount=7

You can send blades out for heat treating at $10 or $15 per blade for perfect results, and avoid buying the equipment.

Air Hardening Stainless Steel Only
Buck Pau Bos -Be sure to check the Shipping and Price tabs.
http://www.buckknives.com/index.cfm?event=bio.paulBos#
http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/privacy.php#services

Oil Hardening Carbon Steels and Air Hardening Stainless Steel
http://www.petersheattreat.com/cutlery.html
http://www.knifemaker.ca/ (Canadian)


Quenchants for Oil hardening steel
Forget the Goop Quench.
Forget used motor oil, it's toxic and doesn't work that well.

Use commercial quench oil & match oil speed to the steel type;

Even grocery store canola oil works well enough for your first knife-if you use the right steel.

Brine and water are almost free, and technically correct for W1 and "water hardening" steels but a fast oil like Parks 50 and Houghton Houghto Quench K are less likely to give you broken blades.
If you use water or brine, expect to have a cracked or broken blade.
Search the work "tink" for more info


Glue – Epoxy

Use a Fresh package of slow setting, high strength epoxy to attach blades to handles and well as seal out moisture.
Surface Prep is vital, drill tang holes/ grind a hollow, roughen the surfaces with abrasive, blasting is best.
Ensure the surface is clean & no oil including fingerprints. Soap, Acetone & Alcohol, Blasting.
Clamp with moderate pressure= avoid a “glue starved joint” when all the adhesive is squeezed out.
These are well proven.
Brownell's Acraglas
West Systems G Flex
JB Weld


Grinder / Tools

In my opinion, variable speed and a small wheel attachment are essential on a good grinder.
You can almost always improve tracking with more belt tension. It needs to be way tighter than you first think.

Hand Tools
You can do it all by hand with files and abrasive cloth like the Green Pete video.
Files can be made from unhardenable steel, or steel similar to 1095 that needs a difficult HT
Just use 1084 instead of a file.

Photo of a nice bevel filing jig

Entry Level Grinders
Many makers start with the Sears Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder

Low Speed Modification Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder


Commercial Production 2 x 72” Belt Grinder Reviews
http://www.prometheanknives.com/shop-techniques-3/grinders
http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCKnifeMakingGrinders.htm

Mapp arm – Grinder Toolrest


DIY 2 x 72” Belt Grinders

KMG Clone Free Plans
http://www.dfoggknives.com/PDF/GrinderPlans.pdf

NWG No Weld Grinder
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/plans-for-the-no-weld-grinder-sander-nearly-50-pages-p-723.html

EERF Grinder (EERF =“Free” backwards)
http://wilmontgrinders.com/EERFGrinder.aspx
http://blindhogg.com/blueprints.html

Buy the kit
http://polarbearforge.com/grinder_kit.html

What Belts to buy?
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/abrasive-belt-basics-what-kind-should-i-buy-p-1393.html



VFD Variable Speed made simple

Simplest, and cheapest are hardly ever the same.

Yes you can get cheaper NEMA 1 VFD’s and build your own enclosure
Or you may find them cheaper at other retaillers, but watch shipping.

Wayne Coe
http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com/Motors___VFDs.html

VFD-
KBAC-27D

Motor
3 phase 220v 1.5 HP motor, TEFC, frame 56 or 56C, RPM is up to you.
Make sure it has a footed base for the KMG ad NWG, or a C flange face mount for Bader and GIB styles.
I get them on ebay, even with paying $80 for shipping to Canada I save $$$ on a used motor.


Wiring kit

Wiring kit - for 115v VFD includes 8' 14 gage molded cord, 2' 4 conductor wire for from VFD to motor, cable glands, wire nuts and grounding connectors $45.00 including shipping CONUS.


The 1.5 HP combination is the most common setup, as reported by Rob Frink in some thread somewhere
It allows you to plug into any 110vac, 15 amp outlet.
A 2 HP motor requires a 220vac input.

There are cheaper VFD units like the TECO, but the only VFD I have found that will run a 1.5 HP motor on a 110v 15 amp input is the KBAC27D

It is NEMA4, sealed from metal dust that can smoke the unit.
It has good community and company support, like the manuals, hook-up diagrams, photos and adjustment settings on Rob Frink’s website.

I like the fact that I can buy it from a local distributor in Canada.

Travis W reported being able to run a 2 HP on a 110v circuit, but I haven’t tried it.

Hookup is dead simple-Here's how
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/VS-setup.html




Safety Equipment
Protect your -Eyes, Ears, Fingers, and Lungs – remove jewellery and put on safety gear.

Respirators
Chronic lung disease and cancer really suck the joy out of life.
Don't believe me? google "Ed Caffrey lung cancer" and see what he has to say about it.

The minimum I would consider are the 3M 7500 and North 7700 silicone half masks with a P100 Filter.
Use a VOC & P100 combo cartridge for protection against acetone and solvents.
There are also prefilters that snap over the main filter for longer life.

For beards, pick one of these
3M PAPR
Resp-O-Rator
3m Breathe Easy
Trend Airshield Pro
Air Cap II


Searching
Search works for ALL users, even unpaid users.
Try it, I’ll bet you’re not the first to ask the question here

This is a special Google page that searches BF only & works better than the forum search.
http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=011197018607028182644:qfobr3dlcra

V23 Feb 6, 2012
Added VFD’s made simple

Countavatar.jpg
 
Last edited:
I'm just getting into knifemaking at the ripe old age of 17, and I have a few questions to help me on my way

1. When hand sanding for a satin finish, is it best to sand from spine to edge, or from ricasso to tip?

2. Which steels are easiest to be polished, and to what degree? i.e. Which steels can take a mirror finish?

3. I currently have a 6x48 1hp belt sander to use, but I'm fairly certain it'll be too clumsy for much of what I need to do. Does anyone have experience with this: http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/sanders/1-inch-x-30-inch-belt-sander-2485.html? It would seriously cut down on belt expense as well.

4. What are the best ways to finish paper Micarta scales?

5. Though I plan on mostly making full tang knives, I love the look of hidden tangs and want to know the best way to cut the slot for the tang in the block. I've seen varying techniques, but the most viable seems to be to simply drill out a few hollows with a bit the same width as the tang, and doing a light force-fitting. Can anyone enlighten me on this subject?

Thanks in advance, hopefully I can have some pics up in a short time for critique, though that seems unlikely what with the beginning of swimming season.

Welcome to it, we love to see your pics.

1.
Most hand sanded finishes finish with ricasso to tip, lengthwise strokes.

On the grit progressions, you want to change the direction of the scratches, so you can see when you have gotten all of the last grits scratches out.
Particularly on the end of the last grit, just pull in one direction , no back and forth. & = no "j-hooks"

2.
You can make most steels pretty shiny, which steel do you want to work with?

3.
See my standard reply for lots of grinder info
1x30 is better than a 6x48
1x42 is even better
2x42 is better yet - see the Sears Craftsman and the reply has video links to modifications
2x72 is the "standard" see the standard reply with reviews and plans on how to build one - probably not for you yet $600 to $1,200 to build one
but have a look, maybe you're in highschool and you can build one from free stock in shop class, what do we know ?


Don't ignore the disc on that 6x48"
If it's got the power and runs straight - it's highly useful.
AC Richards ? used one for years before he had a belt sander


4.
Use the search feature, there is lots of info on that
Especially read Bladsmth posts on polishing, I think he had advice on buffs and compounds
In a nutshell, hand finish through all the grits as high as you dare, buff with white, or pink, finish with wax, or whatever strikes your fancy

5.
I suspect that a "light force fitting" would lead to broken wood blocks.
with the price of really pretty wood block's running up in the $50-60-70 + range - I'd skip that.
Search this.
There was even a recent thread this week, try searching for
"hidden tang broach"
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...How-long-does-it-take-you-to-do-a-hidden-tang
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...I-get-a-broaching-tool-for-hidden-tang-knives
 
Last edited:
Please fill out your profile and let us know were you are. You might just get an invite to a knifemakers shop.
 
Just a warning on the 1x30 HF grinder, it's fine for light work but I could probably stall it with my thumb. It runs at a decent speed but stops easily. Most of the 1x42 grinders are much, much heavier duty and are still relatively inexpensive. I have both of those and a 2x72 and I use the 1x42 for lots of stuff just cause it comes up to speed instantly (the 2x72 takes several seconds). I didn't use the 1x30 for anything for years but just today made a horizontal grinder out of it which makes it great for slip joints (shaping the kick and the inside of the spring) but I'd hate to try to grind a blade out of it. Also the 2x72 belts are a much better deal in the long run, but obviously the grinder itself is a lot more. I used my 1x42 to build my 2x72 grinder but it took a lot of research.
 
Profile is updated, if there's anything else I should add, let me know. I looked on Craigslist, and found that Sears/Craftsman 1"x42" for $100, hopefully I can whittle that down to ~$75, unless any of you can offer a different appraisal: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/tls/2838418255.html. It's the older version with 1/2hp as opposed to 1/3hp. I may just have to go for the new 2"x48" in the end, though.
 
I've found much of what I need by hunting through the forums and other sources, but my problem is that there has been plenty of conflicting information, and I'm not sure which to pursue, in particular the topic of hand sanding. Perhaps I'd be better off just asking for personal opinions on the matter, as it does seem technique varies widely. As far as the paper micarta goes, it seems to be a rarely used material (at least in comparison to linen, canvas, G10), so in all likelihood I'll just experiment with it.

Sounds like you have it figured out. Many questions you may have or will have, will have conflicting answers. Just wait till you think about heat treating your blade. Just make one and when you start hand sanding see what works best for you. One answer is to sand different directions with each grit until all the marks from the previous grit are gone. I have found that the more knives I make the more questions are answered.
 
Sounds like you have it figured out. Many questions you may have or will have, will have conflicting answers. Just wait till you think about heat treating your blade. Just make one and when you start hand sanding see what works best for you. One answer is to sand different directions with each grit until all the marks from the previous grit are gone. I have found that the more knives I make the more questions are answered.

Fortunately I already have the heat treat situation (hopefully) figured out. I built a small forge with refractory cement and using a hair dryer as a blower, and can get it quite hot. I'm waiting for a ceramic tube I made in ceramics class to finish firing, then I'll use it as a muffle to help keep the heat even on the blade. I've already gotten some 1/8" steel stock to bright yellow heat in it fairly easily using mesquite charcoal, but I need to practice my temp control for normalization cycles especially. What with my deep fryer in the kitchen, I've got no shortage of canola oil to use as quenchant, not that I'm not willing to buy some proper quench oil. With luck, the 1084 heat treat should be one of the easier parts of the process for me. I think I'm going to take some pics of my setup to see if there's any improvements that can be made.
 
I am new to knifemaking myself and did much research on different forums and from a local knifemaker I know. I would suggest taking your hf belt grinder as I did and just use it to make wood templates of the knives you want to make. I purchases a belt grinder built to my specifications from http://www.2x72beltgrinder.com. He is a good builder. You can see my exact belt grinder on his grinders page. It's the 4" X 8" flipping platen model. This will be a good stepping stone for you to make good quality knives. I hope this is of some help to you.
 
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