Rotating Grinder head

JTknives

JTknives

Joined
Jun 11, 2006
Messages
8,651
As many of you probabley know im building a NWGS from Tracy (very very nice). and i wanted to make a tool head that would not need to be changed out to from platen to slack belt and to contact wheels. so this is what i came up with. the big wheel is 8" and the small one is 2". let me know what you think and if you have anything to add. thanks

O by the way you just loosen the bolt in the center and spin it intell its where you want it.
 

Attachments

  • JT rotary tool head2.JPG
    JT rotary tool head2.JPG
    50.9 KB · Views: 240
Sick. I love seeing the grinder adaptations custom makers develop. This looks like it would be really useful.
 
Assuming you can come up with a way to securely hold them at 90deg. so they don't wander on you it looks mighty fine.
 
Im thinking about drilling some more holes . one in each position so when i rotate it into say the 8" contact wheel i will have 2 holes one is the axes and the other is a stay pin so put in the stay pin and tighted down the axes bolt.
 
Nice take on the "Caffrey platen" for the KMG, incorporating the large wheel instead of just 2" and 3" wheels. Almost like a Square Wheel or Radiusmaster concept. I like it.

Are you planning to extend the entire assembly far enough away from the tool arm that the bolts on the backside ( bearing axles) don't bump into the tooling arm when you spin it, or run into the tooling arm receiver? How does that affect the positioning of the idler and drive wheels? Have to change the tracking assembly up some, too?
 
no, im thinking about threding the 3/8th plate so the bolts go through the wheels and then thred into the flat bar. i will then cut them off flush so thay dont hit thwe tooling arm. so everything still lines up fine. I got all the functions from 5 wheels but onley used 2 :eek:. ill be puting this togather soon and ill keep you updated. the onley thing is that when i rotate it i will have to slide the tooling arm in or out to take up the belt slack because from doing the math the center pivot would have to be just a hair under the 8" contact wheel so by moving the center pivot so that it does not hit the contact wheel the amount of belt used by the diffrent positions will be slightley diffrent. but o well, now if i used the 3" contact wheel insted of the 2" it would shift the center pivot point away from the 8" wheel but i want the 2". thanks for all the comments
 
This looks like a neat idea, have you done the measurements to see if this will work with a 72" belt, or would you just forgoe the idler when using this setup? Not that you can't get a longer belt if you need to.
 
Would it work better to have the large wheel on top when using the platen? That way you could more easily see what you are grinding without having your nose hanging over the top wheel. Of course, you could always tell people that the short nose came from "keeping your nose to the grindstone".
Chip Kunkle
 
what about a tool rest for the flat platen (for profiling)...



just thinking out loud.
 
JT I am also working on a similar tool bar for the NWGS but I am just trying a 2" wheel on top and a 3" wheel on the bottom that I saw on Caffrey website. I think he had Rob build it special. I just bought some 3/16th inch thick tube to provide more stability and am using 3/8 in steel to create a wheel holder like Mike Ceric has in his plans. Have you come up with a good source for two inch wheels yet? After I get this done I'm going to work on a two disc attachment for the grinder.
 
I like it. I am interested in how you make a sturdy pivot point that locks at different points. May I also add that, if anything, the platen should be square to the grinder.
 
I didn't notice if you stated what grade bolts (and nuts) you used, but the side load on the extended pivot bolt may be too much for most grades.It should be grade 8.The spacer sleeve should be as wide as the inner race on the bearing (same for the outer washer under the bolt head). This will help insure a true alignment and prevent the alignment drifting due to wear in and on the mounting plate.
Stacy
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top