Rotolock and AutoLawks

K

Kutz

Joined
Jun 5, 2010
Messages
82
Both of these locks claim to improve the strength of their liner lock. I wanted to know by how much? Does it make it as strong as a lock back or Axis? Or is it simply meant to stop you from unlocking the knife under hard use? If it does improve the strength by how much and which one is stronger? Thanks
 
I can only speak to the autolawks, but it doesn't make the lock any stronger. It just makes it harder to unlock. IMO a proper liner-lock shouldn't need any accessories.
 
The roto block is used for framelocks.

I think this will not make the lock any stronger (just like the autolawks) but it's extra safety so the lock will not disengage with use.

So these extra features make these knives "safer" but not stronger than axis or back lock knives.

There are some back lock knives like Extremo Ratio and Pohl Force that have an extra safety feature and would be stronger in my opinion.
 
The Rotoblock is used on a framelock, search for Rotoblock in youtube and look at a Video of the SR1 folder. The Rotoblock is much better then the autolawks, autolawks only prevent accidental closure (it has been documented of the autolawks failing badly and the lock can still be moved). The rotoblock can actually lock the framelock in place. Therefore the framelock does not move.

Damn, jijoel beat me to it!

O the rotolock, my bad, dont have any experience with it.
 
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The strongest locks out there also IMO are the compression, tri-ad, axis, and ball bearing lock in no particular order. I know the caged ball bearing lock has had some bad press lately but I still like the design. The back lock, frame lock, and liner lock can all be built well and strongly or poorly and shoddily.
 
Ok thats something different. (roto block is rather famous at this moment in Lionsteel sr1 and Esee/DPX folder)



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Looks like it's something like the autolawks.
So would be similar and just ads extra safety.
Have not seen this type of lock in real life.
 
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I used a LAWKS-type knife from CRKT for a long time (3" Point Guard) and I do like the system - the liner on that knife was pretty good to begin with and a little extra safety doesn't hurt. AUTOLAWKS, on the other hand, I'm not a huge fan of. I think the autolawks system makes the knife just far too difficult to close easily, and having the secondary lock engage on a spring just doesn't give a huge benefit over having it not spring-activated. When pressure from cutting or blade movement is applied to the secondary lock, it won't disengage because the direction of pressure cannot be in the correct direction - it's always perpendicular to the plane of movement.

I don't have any experience with the Gerber version, sorry.
 
Neither mechanism improves on actual strength. What they do (or attempt to do) is negate the odds of the lock disengaging accidentally. If the locks fails it will be because the locking liner buckled, no other reason. If that happens it probably won't be catastrophic for the hand holding the knife, whereas an accidental disengaging may very well prove fatal for tendons and muscles. :eek:
 
Isn't the rotoblock just a copy of the Hinderer lock bar stabalizer?

I know that it can be adjusted to prevent the lock from closing, but I can do that with my ZT.
 
brandonc said:
Isn't the rotoblock just a copy of the Hinderer lock bar stabalizer?

I know that it can be adjusted to prevent the lock from closing, but I can do that with my ZT.
Click to expand...
No you can't. The Rotoblock actually revolves approx 1/8 of a circle to lock the locking bar in place. Like this:
[youtube]-vIIet5j87Y[/youtube]
My ZT 0300 at least can't do that. ;)
 
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