Rough Rider & Related Slipjoints

mrknife said:
i didnt break the blade, i wanted that part. it bent at the joint, if it makes a difference to ya, ill dig out it out and take pictures of the handles. one side is intact actually. to be correct, i broke the knife
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Then how is this a "you get what you pay for" moment? You broke it doing something you're not suppose to do with any knife, but it's the knife's fault??

I having trouble understanding this logic.
 
sh00ter01 said:
Then how is this a "you get what you pay for" moment? You broke it doing something you're not suppose to do with any knife, but it's the knife's fault??

I having trouble understanding this logic.
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thin liners? i dont know, i wanted the blade out for a project. certainly wont test that with a more expensive knife. doubt it can happen to this colt gunstock tho, looks pretty sturdy
 
mrknife said:
thin liners? i dont know, i wanted the blade out for a project. certainly wont test that with a more expensive knife. doubt it can happen to this colt gunstock tho, looks pretty sturdy
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mrknife said:
yeah guys, Im an idiot! i know
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You're not an idiot for trying to remove the blade for another project. Just sounds like you went about it in the wrong manor. The reason you're catching some flak is for the "you get what you pay for" statement, as RR have proven to be great knives for the money.

If you're trying to remove a blade, I'd grind down the pins and slowly start prying the knife apart in the same way it went together. Be mindful of the blade and go ham on the handle if you're discarding it anyways.
 
mrknife said:
thin liners? i dont know, i wanted the blade out for a project. certainly wont test that with a more expensive knife. doubt it can happen to this colt gunstock tho, looks pretty sturdy
Click to expand...

sh00ter01 said:
You're not an idiot for trying to remove the blade for another project. Just sounds like you went about it in the wrong manor. The reason you're catching some flak is for the "you get what you pay for" statement, as RR have proven to be great knives for the money.

If you're trying to remove a blade, I'd grind down the pins and slowly start prying the knife apart in the same way it went together. Be mindful of the blade and go ham on the handle if you're discarding it anyways.
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Won't bother to derail this thread too much more as it's become more about how to dismantle a knife than the merits of Rough Rider Knives but... If you want to take a slip joint apart correctly without destroying the handles completely you have to cut the pins typically by wedging a thin blade between the spring and liner and hammering down. Believe me Any knife will come apart at the joint if you apply enough pressure, on a less extreme note that's how side to side blade play is introduced. if the handle didn't give the blade would snap. And it's much easier to make new or replace broken scales than it is to stamp out and grind a new blade.
 
I think so, i actually dont have any beef with RR knives. I love em. I got my first 2 blade trapper from them and love it, terrific fit n finish and hair popping sharp. I actually have 2 more of those coke bottles as well.

The pins were flush tho! In retrospect, I should have put on work gloves, but I managed to get away fine.
 
Lemmy Caution said:
Won't bother to derail this thread too much more as it's become more about how to dismantle a knife than the merits of Rough Rider Knives but... If you want to take a slip joint apart correctly without destroying the handles completely you have to cut the pins typically by wedging a thin blade between the spring and liner and hammering down. Believe me Any knife will come apart at the joint if you apply enough pressure, on a less extreme note that's how side to side blade play is introduced. if the handle didn't give the blade would snap. And it's much easier to make new or replace broken scales than it is to stamp out and grind a new blade.
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sorry for derailing!
 
mrknife said:
thin liners? i dont know, i wanted the blade out for a project. certainly wont test that with a more expensive knife. doubt it can happen to this colt gunstock tho, looks pretty sturdy
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Uh, pretty sure the Colt's are made by Rough Rider too. But different models have different characteristics.

I have a double locking model (forget the actual name) that has the thinnest blades I've ever seen on my many dozens of RR's & Colt's. So it's just not a model I would use if a stout blade is needed. But I have spent many hours carving/whittling with other models.

For some reason, I tend to grab a Colt Sowbelly, RR Toenail, and RR Barlow when sitting down to scrape on some wood. I should just find a good heavy Whittler or Gunstock and keep them sharp. But I enjoy trying out different blades and rotating through different grip sizes when playing around with wood. But never broken one though.
 
Those Rough Riders certainly are a lot of knife for the money, aren't they folks. Maybe it's time to go back to talking about them some more.
 
There are some stag handled Colts now. This muskrat looks pretty good.

CT217.jpg
 
I am currently waiting for a pair of Rough Rider, yellow sodbuster jr and black micarta sodbuster/ liner lock. That will be my first RR (your bug has bitten me hard) and first liner lock as well (until now I have been reluctant to that sort of knives).
Oh! And I don't intend to break them! :eek:
 
Nixelplix said:
I doubt any traditional knife would hold up to that kind of abuse.
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i agree....
but if he wanted the blade,there were lot's easier ways of getting it out....knock
the pins thru with a punch would not damage at all.....you can break anything if you try
hard enough....

I'm loving them Colts myself........I have a few that I would put to test with anything else.
But you can get bad in anything,even the most expensive ones have bad slip thru the quality
controls......Or some are sold as seconds.....
RR,Colt,and a couple more I can't think of brand right now,that are really good knives....
JD
 
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I have a question about one of the shields I saw on a Rough Rider for sale on Amazon. I'm not sure if it is OK to link to the page. The shield in question looks an awful lot like the Space Needle to me, but I am biased, since I am a lifelong Seattle resident! I think I may have seen shields like the one on the Amazon Rough Rider (it is an improved muskrat in tobacco bone, if anyone wants to see it) on other makes of knife in the past, so it is probably a copy of an old traditional shield used in the past by other companies. Does anyone know what this shield is supposed to be? I am afraid nobody is going to know what I am talking about unless I link to the image, so here it is:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DXNYDMM...UTF8&colid=OT8ZZ4IJDTEB&coliid=I3D1BFQU4FTRBJ

Apologies in advance if it is against the rules to post the link. Let me know and I will delete it if it is a "no-no".
 
mazdamattc said:
I have a question about one of the shields I saw on a Rough Rider for sale ... The shield in question looks an awful lot like the Space Needle to me... so it is probably a copy of an old traditional shield used in the past by other companies. Does anyone know what this shield is supposed to be? .
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It is a variation of the "chess piece," or "bullock" shield that has been around for a while.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...body-wish-to-tell-me-about-the-Bullock-Shield

It is used on the Case/Bose Lanny's Clip knife that was produced a few years back.
 
That is hilarious! The photo in the thread you linked to looks a lot more, um, bollocky, and less Space Needle-ish than the Rough Rider version, but they are obviously based on the same old shield pattern, if I were to guess. I wonder what the original knife makers who used that shield intended it to be? If they actually intended it to represent the nether regions of a bull, what in the world would have possessed them to want to do that!?!?!?!?!?!
 
Just imagine the extra virility that would come from using a knife with that type of shield!

- GT
 
That shield on a stockman with a spey blade might send a mixed message. :D
 
I have a few Rough Riders and actually like them all. No major QC issues besides the norm. This isn't the purdiest pic in the world, but I highly recommend one of the lock back canoe whittlers. It's an extremely useful knife and I almost forgot about it until I got all my knives out last week and was tinkering with them. This one really stuck out from the bunch.
 
I tried something different recently and picked up that little Loveless style 3 inch fixed blade. It came with a goofy sheath and I had to reprofile the edge which had a very uneven grind. That said it helped me all last week dig out old grout cut old vinyl flooring etc... No chips or deformities it's been performing pretty good! I would consider their 440a steel proven at this point in my mind. It takes an edge and holds an edge decently doing very real world things (updating my bathroom). Not bad for a $12 user.
 
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