Rough Rider & Related Slipjoints

Just received an RR304 and an RR817. Both are beautifully crafted. Tight, smooth and very sharp. Blades are well centered with nice grinds. Only fault I can find is the liner on the RR817 has a sharp edge to it but a few licks with one of my Sharpmaker rods will take care of that. Well worth the few dollars they cost me.

DSCF0244_zps0abe6db6.jpg


DSCF0243_zps84261d41.jpg


DSCF0242_zpsfb8ca3b0.jpg


DSCF0241_zpsb4b69109.jpg
 
Last edited:
Well, I just grabbed a RR yellow delrin Elephant Toenail to go with the amber jigged bone version in my pocket on the bay tonight. A grand total of $10.98 shipped. Over twice what I paid for my amber ET ;), but I was just lucky that time. I am comfortable the new ET will be just fine.

In the mail this afternoon I got the Colt CT424, a trim little fixed blade with a full tang and checkered wood scales. The total OAL is a wee less than the ET with the main blade extended. Neat little knife with a traditional configuration. The edge bevels are good and sharpness wise it will cut and is useable, but I'll sharpen it up to a finer cutting edge. With the right pocket sheath it should work pretty much like a Bark River City Knife or perhaps a Little Creek for EDC.
 
Note: This mentions sharpening, but it is about the knife and just sets the parameters of the knife as it was used So I took the little Colt fixed blade out back after sharpening it on my KME. Nothing too drastic. The 1500/XF Gold diamond stone and a kangaroo strop with 4 micron CBN emulsion on it. The factory edge was adequate, but nothing on par with the Colt traditional folders so far. I wanted so see how it would handle various cutting chores.



I did some whittling yesterday, then stropped the knife back up so it was cutting paper well again, but that was all. So today I was out back again and used it to skin the bark off the mid-section (about middle of where the blade is). I shaved some stick and did the notching in the section that is covered by the blade from hilt to tip. The to see how it would cut after some wood cutting I grabbed the tomato and the orange and did a few slices. It cut quite nicely.

I tested it some more cutting 550 cord laying on a stiff bit of leather, then some suede leather (old moccasin boot) and some old blue jean hems over on a cutting mat, and finally cut 1/4" sisal rope using about a third of the blade. It took a pull, push, and pull to cut the loosely held sisal completely.

I like that the little Colt is a traditional styled, small fixed blade with it's very dark brown, checkered wooden scales. It tucks up nicely on the belt and with a slip sheath it would make a great pocket carry.

Hope that contributes a little to people wondering about these things. Really nice considering the CT424 was $11.30 shipped. I'm wearing it now and will see how it works over the next several days.
 
.



I did some whittling yesterday, then stropped the knife back up so it was cutting paper well again, but that was all. So today I was out back again and used it to skin the bark off the mid-section (about middle of where the blade is). I shaved some stick and did the notching in the section that is covered by the blade from hilt to tip. The to see how it would cut after some wood cutting I grabbed the tomato and the orange and did a few slices. It cut quite nicely.

I tested it some more cutting 550 cord laying on a stiff bit of leather, then some suede leather (old moccasin boot) and some old blue jean hems over on a cutting mat, and finally cut 1/4" sisal rope using about a third of the blade. It took a pull, push, and pull to cut the loosely held sisal completely.

Hope that contributes a little to people wondering about these things. Really nice considering the CT424 was $11.30 shipped. I'm wearing it now and will see how it works over the next several days.

Left the picture in because it looked so nice on the screen!

Sounds like a nice little knife. The knife looks to be sabre ground, and for me that is my least favorite grind, although great on a working knife. I can never get a sabre grind to slice as well as my hollow ground, or even partly hollow ground blades.

If that little Colt is a sabre grind, you did a heckuva job on the sharpening! Nice knife, too.

Robert
 
Although I've been lurking for a few weeks, this is my first post to the forum. I was directed to this forum by some guys on the Smith & Wesson forum after a knife discussion broke out over there. While I'm new here, I'm not new to folders. My father brought me one when he came home from WWII in the Pacific. I was only three at the time but remember the event very clearly.

I've been messing around with knives just about ever since, but with demonstrably less intellect and fervor than is evident in your discussions. I don't recall being without a pocket knife since late grade school but must admit that the level of my sophistication rarely exceeded the Buck/Gerber grade. That's why this thread on Rough Riders resonated so with me.

Like most folks, I presume, I always assumed that Rough Rider knives were junk. However, after reading every single word in this seemingly endless thread I was convinced to give them a try. The prospect of getting to know new types and the fact that I live but 20 minutes from that giant knife store near the mountains and could sort through for some outstanding examples proved irresistible.

So an RR canoe, barlow and a mini-barlow (all in white bone) followed me home. You guys are right. I couldn't be happier. Everything about them exceeds my expectations and I'm especially enamored with the thinness of the canoe. (It actually prompted the purchase of two more canoes of other brands and a copperhead…which I consider a half canoe.)

To prove I've been reading other threads as well, the white bone scales were chosen for experimental purposes. I must admit that I was impressed with neither tea stains nor shoe polish stains but rit dye works fine, as the (hopefully) attached picture will demonstrate.

The hook is now firmly set. In the picture you will note three additional RRs. They're from my second trip to the big store. The big daddy barrow was on sale and irresistibly priced, the half hawk was weirdly interesting and I fell in love with the fat boy trapper…it's easily my favorite in this set.

So…thanks…I think.

Ed

 
Welcome to the forum.
Nice selection, I like the look of that half-hawk. If I lived that close to that big store, I'd be broke. :)
 
Nice collection, and I'll second your thoughts on the canoe. Got one in smooth tobacco bone just to give RR a try, and I've been really impressed with it. It keeps standing out from a crowded pack to find time in my pocket!
 
I really like the Case Eisenhower knife pattern. Maybe my Google-fu is weak. but I can't find anything equivalent to it in the Rough Rider line. Is there such a thing? Thanks in advance.
 
Like most folks, I presume, I always assumed that Rough Rider knives were junk. However, after reading every single word in this seemingly endless thread I was convinced to give them a try. The prospect of getting to know new types and the fact that I live but 20 minutes from that giant knife store near the mountains and could sort through for some outstanding examples proved irresistible.

So an RR canoe, barlow and a mini-barlow (all in white bone) followed me home. You guys are right. I couldn't be happier. Everything about them exceeds my expectations and I'm especially enamored with the thinness of the canoe. (It actually prompted the purchase of two more canoes of other brands and a copperhead…which I consider a half canoe.)

The hook is now firmly set. In the picture you will note three additional RRs. They're from my second trip to the big store. The big daddy barrow was on sale and irresistibly priced, the half hawk was weirdly interesting and I fell in love with the fat boy trapper…it's easily my favorite in this set.

So…thanks…I think.

Ed

Hi, Ed! Add my name to the those welcoming you aboard.

I have said this more than once, I don't think there is any need to apologize for the cost of a Rough Rider knife. I don't have but a few that I have kept but have bought several for friends that don't care about any particulars on a knife. They just want a quality knife that holds and edge that they can use and a knife that will hold together. Most aren't knife guys. They love all the knives I have bought them and since I sharpen some of them, I can tell they are used as cutlery only part of the time.

One of the great things about RR knives is the fact that you can try a ton of different patterns without breaking the bank. If you are reacquainting yourself with traditionals or just longing for something interesting, RR can go a long way towards satisfying that itch.

Good luck! Hope to see more posts about new knives soon!

Robert
 
A few months back, I wanted to try out a Barlow. I ordered several brands, including a couple of Rough Riders in different bone handles. Personally, I've always been skeptical of the Chinese folders but I had heard good reports on RR so I was confident they would be good quality for the price. I was actually disappointed in them. Both RRs were a little gaudy for my taste. One was okay, nothing special...just okay and a good buy for the low price. You simply can't complain when it cost so little. The other was a mess--both blades were difficult to open and the main blade was binding badly. I gave it a thorough washing to remove manufacturing sludge but neither that nor oiling the joints heavily resolved the binding problem. What the washing did do was cause the shield to fall out. I glued it back in and tossed the knife in a shop drawer where it will reside in perpetuity. Overall, my impression was just so-so. Definitely worth the price but I'm not giving up my Case, Queen or Solingen Boker knives.

However, I was happily surprised at the quality of the Taylor Brands Schrade Old Timer Barlow I bought for a few dollars more than the Rough Riders. It wasn't as shiny and not gaudy at all but it matched my memory of the Barlows from my younger days as economical working knives. It was a solidly put together knife that I could see using. Sometime thereafter I bought several other Schrade Old Timers, most of them being 8OT patterns in three handle materials--saw cut delrin, yellow delrin and desert ironwood. There were a few minor hickeys with the fit and finish on all of them but they were solidly put together and much more confidence inspiring if the intention is to put them to regular hard use. I was impressed. Again, I'm not giving up my Case, Queen or Solingen Boker knives but my opinion on these low-cost import knives has been changed.
 
Sorry you had a disappointing experience with the Rough Riders, Lee. I think part of the price you pay with these very inexpensive imports is lack of consistency. That's why some of us are very pleased with them and some of us are not.

While I'm posting, here's a little whittler I bought a few years ago. I had to do some modification to the nail nick on the main blade to make it function, but otherwise it's a pretty, neat little knife.


 
I have bought four Rough Riders so far: the Arrowhead canoe, the Dog bone jack ( both of which are now my my daughter's), the Gunstock bone copperhead and the red jigged bone Half- hawk. All have been good knives for the money but the half- hawk is incredible value. Here are my thoughts on it. I'll try to add some pictures if i can get some with posting.

Pros: * Full flat ground sheepsfoot blade has a thick spine but still cuts well * Hollow ground pen blade provides a finer tip for more detailed cutting * Both blades are mirror polished * No blade play on either blade *Backsprings are strong, 8 or more out of 10 * Chinese 440A-equivalent steel is decent for the money and sharpens back up easily * 4" swayback handle is extremely comfortable in both regular and reverse grips * Bone scales are evenly dyed with crisp jigging, no sharp edges * Matchstriker nail marks are long enough to help give leverage against the strong backsprings and are a well executed decorative feature on a knife at this price point * Overall the fit and finish is good: this looks like a more than $10 - 15 knife, in my opinion.

Cons: * My sample came with a slight bend in the mark side brass liner so there is a small gap between it and the bone scale, not enough to rub the pen blade but it's there if you look for it * The sheepsfoot blade rides very high from the handle when it is closed, making the pen blade less comfortable to use (I have filed down the kicks on both the blades and it now sits much lower) * The backspring of the pen blade sits a little low when the blade is closed - again this is very minor, not enough to be uncomfortable in use

In Summary: I have used this knife for cutting trail marks on trees, trimming branches, cutting some stakes, food prep including as a spreader, and other general purpose cutting tasks. I am finding that I like it more and more. Sure, the 2.5" blade is shorter than idea for food prep but it's legal just about anywhere you can legally carry a knife. The sheepsfoot blade is very stout and a real workhorse. I know some people do not like the point on the sheepsfoot but i am finding it very safe with the slipjoint because you have to angle back to use it, making it very hard to accidentally close in use The steel isn't anything amazing but it is perfectly functional and sharpens easily. I would highly recommend this as a yard/work knife and, for me, it is working very well as an every day carry, in spite of its weight and relative bulk. This is a lot of very functional steel for under $15
 
SNIP of post for brevity

There were a few minor hickeys with the fit and finish on all of them but they were solidly put together and much more confidence inspiring if the intention is to put them to regular hard use. I was impressed. Again, I'm not giving up my Case, Queen or Solingen Boker knives but my opinion on these low-cost import knives has been changed.

Oddly, I took a look at the Pacific Rim offerings because I was so disappointed in the knives I bought from German and domestic manufacturers. No names as I don't want to start an off topic storm of posts by those defending their favorite brand name. But it didn't make sense to me to buy a $100 knife that I had to accept as a project in some cases, one I had to flush out joints, soften up the edges for better carrying, rebevel and then sharpen the blades, and in glue the shield back in on occasion. Yet on another forum here, that is considered unfortunate and a not too often circumstance, but common enough for at least one of those issues to be addressed frequently.

No thanks. I don't want a project, a kit, or anything to add to my "to do" list. If I do, then I will gladly buy older, used versions of CASE, Buck, Boker, Queen, Eye, Schleiper, etc. and happily work on those for hours.

I got my first Pacific Rim knife as a branded as a Remington. It was a gift from my favorite niece that thought it was "pretty". A classic 4" stockman design, it has turned out to be an excellent work knife. Still at that time, I wouldn't have bought any of them myself. Since then I have bought a few Pacific Rim offerings, but not too many.

Although overall my luck with Pacific Rim knives (including non traditionals) is much better than with domestic and German models, I have decided at this point that regardless of point of origin "ya pays yer money and ya takes yer chances".

Robert
 
So after reading about one of the colt carbon steel slippies recently I went ahead and got one. When it arrived I was sort of disappointed. The blades and grinds were ridiculously thick and the coating on the blade.... well it's lumpy and looks poorly done, though it could have just been a lemon. I decided then that it was going to be a user and abuser, as well as a loaner seeing as these blades are so thick! Everything else seems to be in good order; it was put together well with just a bit of a hairline gap, seems to have a strong and robust construction.

First order of business was to thin out the super thick edges, I did so with little regard to the finish seeing as I didn't care for it to start with. Since then I've been using it to do various tasks including: general cutting duties, cutting open cans (I dip, if I drink a coke the can's often repurposed for dip spit), scraping stuff, fire making (one day survival course), used as a steak knife, and some light prying. I would say that to the abusive uses it's stood up great! I was able to cut a can in half and still have the main blade remove some hair from my arm. The normal use edge retention is pretty good but nothing super spectacular. Sharpens up well but the steel feels surprisingly hard on the stones.

http://i.imgur.com/k2tmgZG

Look at how thick this is! It's as thick or thicker than my mora!

http://i.imgur.com/714tyH6

Overall I think it to be a good user. Not the best slicer for sure but I suppose it does it's job, personally I prefer much thinner blades.

Edit: I can't seem to get the pictures to show up right so links will have to do.
 
Last edited:
After reading so many positives about affordable traditional folders in this thread, I just had to get onboard. Ordered one RR and one Colt. Can't wait for my first traditionals to arrive! Suddenly my current folders all look so tactical :(
 
picked up an imperial schrade sodbuster this week - plan to do some scale modes on my GEC and wanted a cheapy to practice on

came a bit rough around the edges, uneven grind, poorly shaped ricasso and an almost recurve to the blade which will be a bugger to sharpen by hand.

half hour in the work shop and i'd challenge most to spot which of these is the MIC cheapy

P1010052_zpsee5a168a.jpg
 
After reading so many positives about affordable traditional folders in this thread, I just had to get onboard. Ordered one RR and one Colt. Can't wait for my first traditionals to arrive! Suddenly my current folders all look so tactical :(

Excellent!
 
Back
Top