Rounded platen

Fletch Helical

Fletch Helical

Joined
Sep 29, 2009
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I didn't really take notice of it when I originally got it but my 2 x 42 grinder has a slightly rounded platen on it. I ordered Fred Rowe's bubble jig today and hopefully will be implementing it in the near future. What I was wondering was if I try cutting the plunge line in with it like that will it be a problem as opposed to having a platen that is squared off.

If it will be a problem does anyone have any suggestions as to how to make and attach something to the platen. I was thinking getting maybe something like an 1/8 or 1/4" piece of flat stock and cut it to match the size of the platen. Or is it not necessarily to have it perfectly squared off?
 
I've got a bit of 3/16" borosilicate glass from McMaster-Carr on my platen of my Kalamazoo. I don't know if I'd be able to grind plunges without it, but it appears the factory platen on my machine may be much wider than the Craftsman's.
 
If it's the Craftsman 2x42 like I have, the platen is useless for cutting plunges (too wide, not flat, not square, etc.) The platen needs to be flat and the same width more or less as the belt so you can run the belt off the edge slightly.

I attached a piece of pyroceramic material with JB Weld to my stock platen. I purchased it from Darren Ellis, and I think USA Knife Maker sells it also now. Some people also use a piece of ceramic tile but I don't know how 'safe' and 'durable' that approach is.
 
P J 234 said:
I attached a piece of pyroceramic material with JB Weld to my stock platen. I purchased it from Darren Ellis, and I think USA Knife Maker sells it also now. Some people also use a piece of ceramic tile but I don't know how 'safe' and 'durable' that approach is.
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Yeah it's the craftsman 2 x 42. So just using that material and some JB weld holds up fine then? I've never really used JB weld on anything so I'm not sure how durable it is. I remember when I was younger and worked in a garage a guy tried to JB weld part of another guys tool box shut and it never held.
 
Tracy's got some good info on it on his site here:

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/store/ceramic-glass-platen-liner-flat-platen-2x8x-0192-p-1182.html

To locate where to glue it on to the platen, I set up a belt to where it was tracking right on the wheels and then drew the outline onto my platen with a Sharpie. I did not install any screws or stops on mine, just the JB weld and it's held fine for a while. I think it's best to have something in place as a stop though in case something goes wrong, I just never got around to it.
 
Thanks, how long have you been running your grinder with it on? I'm a little leery about the part where he talks about it possibly shattering and sending shards of sharp glass everywhere.

Also I didn't notice any phone number on his site, is there any way to get in touch with him should I have any other questions about anything on his site?
 
Tempered glass cut to the width of the belt will also work.

If the platen the machine comes with is not of the correct shape, use a thin cut off disc on a right angle grinder to cut it to the proper dimension, then attach the new platen to the reshaped one.
You only need to do this on the section of the steel platen where the plunge cuts will be done.

When using the two part JB weld you will find it takes a 24 hour set up time before you can use the machine.
In order to keep the new platen in position while the JB sets up, temporarily super glue some wooden matches along the line where your two inch belt runs on the steel platen. However you get it done, make sure that the new platen does not move from the desired position while the adhesive dries.

Fred
 
I checked McMaster Carr and noticed they have a few different choices available. I know heat is going to be an issue and noticed this http://www.mcmaster.com/#tempered-glass/=4vwtqv Towards the bottom of the page is lists Very High Temperature Heat-Resistant Glass Ceramic that has a max temp of 1256 degrees.

Any thoughts on using that? Also any of this ceramic/tempered glass do you cut it like you would any other kind of glass? I'm in total foreign territory here so bear with me.
 
You can use plain tempered glass from your local glass company. Green Zap-A-Gap will hold it in place just fine. Use a lot of adhesive and float it in place. Spray some kicker on it and give it 10 minutes to set up.

If the glass cracks, it just cracks. There is no "spray" of glass shards flying all over the shop when it (finally) cracks. Just knock it off with a chisel and glue on another piece.

I have been doing it this way for over 25 years now. Trust me, it works.

RJ Martin
 
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