Router w/ flush trim bit

Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Messages
19
Has anyone used a router with a flush trim bit to rough out handle profiles?

I'm curious to know how it performs against G10/micarta/synthetic materials.

mike
 
Fine on Micarta, wood, and synthetics. G-10 is glass fiber in epoxy, and eats all but carbide tooling. I don't know how carbide router bits would take it, but suspect it will dull the carbide in time, too.
 
Works great when you use the steel of the handle to with the grips in place as well. I recently used a quarter inch blade to round off a grip after it was set in place. Just an experiment to see how it would work.
 
There is a video on you tube of a maker doing this. It looks like he profiles handles so fast compared to grinding them.
 
I use a router table to set the initial bevels on many of my handles. I have experienced some tear out with certain burls. As stated earlier, G10 dulls bits as does hitting stainless steel pins if they are set close enough to the edge. I have found that it does save me a bit of time at the grinder.
 
There is a video on you tube of a maker doing this. It looks like he profiles handles so fast compared to grinding them.

I like the way he flush cut the scales to the profile of the tang.

I posted a similar thread to this one a while back. I cited a video by Gavko knives in which he uses a router with carbide burrs. I may have to get a router one of these days. Here’s the video:

 
I like it .......... wood chips are better than wood dust . I will ask my neighbors what they think for a little more noise from my shop :D
 
Thank you for the feedback.

I need to be more consistent with my rough outs. My inconsistencies are resulting in minor compromises on my final form. I know I need to get a little cleaner with my work. I'm thinking that the router will help me get to the intermediate sanding phases quicker and with less error. I have a 3X36 sander/grinder and I still get the occasional bump which forces me to 'fix' things or replace/duplicate effort. I do 80-90% of my sanding by hand with files and sandpaper.

I also need to get my work plane down lower. It is currently at the upper chest. Makes it difficult to be consistent with the files. I get a lean going on in one direction or the other causes my profile to be out of symmetry.
 
I bought a $15 trim router and attached it to a flat piece of aluminum which I bolted to a bench... use it almost every day on Titanium and it works great. Several places sell the same router, they are really powerful for the price. It took about an hour to make, cost about $30 total. Check the Gavko video above, mine is just the same.
 
Awesome post. Finally have a use for this freebie I was given a year or so ago that's been sitting under a bench collecting dust.

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