RTAK 2, Got one!!!

Rat - you just need to get a can of brown spray paint and camo over that logo :D
 
bishop85gt said:
I had one of the first RTAK's and liked it except for the handle.
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Same here. The older RTAK has sort of a big, rectangular handle that isn't terrible, but not optimal either.

Oct-2.jpg

Older RTAK with Surefire X10.

cheers
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Edge geometry?
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Fairly obtuse on the edge grind. When I get a chance, it'll be back-beveled (reprofiled) and then I'll put a working edge on top of that.

Took it out for a few whacks on some 2x4 scrap. Chops pretty well with the factory edge. The sweet spot is further back on the blade than I thought it would be.

The handle is fairly thick, but comfortable. I like the new front guard shape.

I don't mind the logo. I'm not going to storm a bunker with it, so reflection is not an issue. It'll be worn off in time anyway. Guess I could use it as a signaling device in a pinch though. :D
 
Guyon said:
The sweet spot is further back on the blade than I thought it would be.
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Slab handles, no tang taper, pommel weight, distal taper; it would be expected to have a really short dynamic balance point. That also makes absolutely no sense on a knife of that design.

-Cliff
 
makes absolutely no sense on a knife of that design
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While I am not nearly smart enough to know what a dynamic balance point is, I do respectfully disagree with your statement that this knife's charateristcs make no sense. Surely they do, simply look at the practicality of manufacturing (not small shop or single person making) a knife.

These knives are designed to get "the job" (what ever that may be) done at a price point that is realistic.

Will it outperform a $1500 ABS class bowie in a chopping contest? Probably not, but it was probably not intended to.

The criticism you offer seems somewhat unrealistic, in a knife of this class (size and price point) where have you seen taper tangs or the like?

Now smaller knives come with enclosed handles and stick tangs, such as mora knives, but these are not designed to take impacts like the subject knife was likely intended.

If you want a knife with optimal balance rotation points (whatever that is), tapered tangs, fancy handle designs, hand rubbed satin polished finishes, and the perfection of knife nirvana, you ought not be looking at the RAT line of knives at all, you should be looking in the high priced realm of the etheral custom world, where all your dreams come true.

Funny thing though, all the guys I see really working their knives are using baldes they can afford, and afford to replace. I don't think I have ever seen a person really working high brow custom knives, but then again I admit to leading a sheltered life. Maybe their is a place where men gather with custom knives and clear brush, limb sticks, drink beer beer and tell lies. I just have never been there.

How you would keep the price point the same, and include the characteristics of a knife that "makes sense"? Obviously knocking off the pommell could be done when the blade is stamped or water cut or however it is blanked? but the rest? How do you make a production knife with optimal balance? Does another exsist?
 
Cliff and Jeff Randall have had some friction-filled history. Cliff's jargon-loaded jabs are probably aimed as much or more at the designer than at the knife. When he starts spouting his usual, especially without having handled the knife, I hear "La La La La La La La La La La, etc." :D

And that sweet spot was just a little further back than I thought it would be--not a lot further back.
 
Yep, there are some pretty strange opinions floating around this forum, many emanating from the same source.

Scandi grind are/were only used for their cheapness of manufacture and have little or no other merits.

Randall & Perrin design and use knives intended to meet the rigors of the jungles of the Amazon basin and be affordable. Apparently they don't know what they are doing.

Heimo Roselli makes knives with the scandi grind and an axe Cliff doesn't appreciate. Heimo must be a double barreled moron.

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
Hey everyone. Sorry I have been traveling alot and havent had time to respond to the questions posted. I dont know what you would like me to do with the knife to report to you. Like I already said I have used it for butchering wild pig, It also was used to cut their heads off which only took two chopps. Cutting Black Oak limbs that were 2in in diameter took only one chop. I battoned it through dry oak firewood with out a problem. Did some brush clearing, even on dry manzanita, and never experienced any dullness let alone a rolled edge. I even fell a few small pines which was almost effortless. As some one else mentioned the ¨sweet spot¨ is a little farther back than I expected it to be, but that is because of it being a light blade. Its not as heavy as it looks, and is very well balanced. The RTAK 1 had a thicker and more forward heavy blade that Im sure helped with its chopping power. The blade on the 2 is a full flat grind and not as heavy, but still has great chopping power. The handle is the same as the RAT 7 for those of you who have handled those, its just a little larger. The only problem I have had with it was I didnt coat the edge with tuff cloth or any oil after I reprofiled it and then I left it wet in the case for a few days and there was some really bad rusting, but a little WD40 and steel wool took it all off. I retouched it up on a stone then coated it. Who ever commented on the logo being too big, I agree, but its not that bad. It doesnt fit tight in the case, so there is a little bit of a rattle when you walk, Im trying to fix that somehow. The pocket on the sheath easly holds a altoid can and has pleanty of room to spare, like another half of an altoid can. I also strapped my maxpedition rat wallet on the sheath below the pocket for extra survival gear. It turned out to be one hell of a kit. The blade coating is holding up nicely, there are a few scratches in it, probably from bone, but no chipping or rubbing off. In my opinion its got to be the best large outdoor knife for under $100 you can find.
 
In my opinion its got to be the best large outdoor knife for under $100 you can find.
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Have you used the Becker BK9 or the Ranger RD9? If so, how does the RTAK2 compare?

If you have not used those knives, what are the other knives in this class and in what ways is the RTAK2 better and what ways worse?

Sounds like you gave it a heck of a work out!
Randall & Perrin design and use knives intended to meet the rigors of the jungles of the Amazon basin and be affordable.
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My 1987 Ford F150 does not look like a Porsche, handle like a Corvette or get the gas mileage of a Honda. It does get me to work everyday, can still haul a load of bricks, field stones, logs, or about anything else I can throw in the bed. It can handle the whole families bicycles (though the kids have to ride with my wife in the mini-van), and is real handy for tearing out bushes. It gets "the job" done. It is not a Rolls Royce, but it is dependable and it is what I can afford. Even if it does not ahve the optimal rotational balance and dynamic points :) :)
 
knifetester said:
The criticism you offer seems somewhat unrealistic, in a knife of this class (size and price point) where have you seen taper tangs or the like?
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On much cheaper knives actually, completely with fully forged distal tapers. I have shown machetes to a native malyasian knife maker who commented it was a disgrace, something that even does not have the basic characteristics of a knife. A machete is just a mass produced piece of equipment which is used because at times it is all that can be afforded, just like most people in north america use stamped imported stainless knives which are $.50. This doesn't mean you argue or promote the idea those knives are anything but cheap tools. At times all really poor people can drink is muddy and bacterial infected water, can not afford clothing or even food at times either, does anyone argue those are good choices as well.

If you want a knife with optimal balance rotation points (whatever that is), tapered tangs, fancy handle designs, hand rubbed satin polished finishes, and the perfection of knife nirvana, you ought not be looking at the RAT line of knives at all, you should be looking in the high priced realm of the etheral custom world, where all your dreams come true.
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This is just absurd. If you want to troll then I can just put you on the ignore list and you can entertain yourself all you want. If you actually want to have a sensible discussion then that is fine as well but ask reasonable questions. If you don't know what a characteristic of a knife is, one which is fundamental to the handling of a large blade and central to the point of contention, then it is also reasonable to do a little research before condending the point made.

Funny thing though, all the guys I see really working their knives are using baldes they can afford, and afford to replace.
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Are you one of them? I was, my friends still are. I worked clearning brush, lots and did a lot of manual labor putting myself through university. My parents are a janitor and seamstress/homemaker. Their parents were fisherman and farmers, subsistence living and bartering. I am well aware of the challenges of working class people. Yes there are many places where people make less than a $1 a day. I currently LIVE in one of them and have friends who LIVED there all their lives. You don't use their choices to dictate the lifestyle of people not in their constraints. Would you also advocate their level of health care (none). Of course not. I have shown high quality cutlery to individuals making about a dollar a day. They are very impressed with the functionality. However if I gave it to them they would immediately sell it because it represents several YEARS worth of money.

-Cliff
 
A machete is just a mass produced piece of equipment which is used because at times it is all that can be afforded, just like most people in north america use stamped imported stainless knives which are $.50.
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This is just absurd. If you want to troll then I can just put you on the ignore list and you can entertain yourself all you want. If you actually want to have a sensible discussion then that is fine as well but ask reasonable questions. If you don't know what a characteristic of a knife is, one which is fundamental to the handling of a large blade and central to the point of contention, then it is also reasonable to do a little research before condending the point made.
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I though my questions were reasonable, though I guess reasonable minds can differ. When I want to entertain myself (or relieve stress), I have other ways to do so. :jerkit: :jerkit: :jerkit: :jerkit:

Are you one of them?
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Nope, I am a Captain in the armchair commando mall ninja brigade. Soft of hand, wide of butt, big of mouth and belly. I probably would die from a day of real work. I admit to being lazy as well as stupid. I am also not very good looking and have a rather poor sense of humor, a hairy back and a bald head.

BTW, I have never even seen an RTAK2 in person.
 
*yawn*

It's a $100 knife. It does what the manu says it will do. If it feels right in your hand, you'll like it, if not, you won't. End of story.

I really would like to see another knife in this design/price class that has distal taper and all that good stuff. Not being a smart-alec, if someone is producing them, they deserve recognition.

I have a couple knives made by Camillus, like 'em a whole lot; Ontario stuff keeps catching my eye for the same reasons I like Camillus stuff. (high carbon steel, basic tough designs, not too pretty, not too pricy).

Having said that, I gotta say even on a $30 knife I would like the thing to be sharp out of the box. Not necessarily "SCARY SHARP!!" (whatever that is) but with even bevels and an actual edge on it. I've been lucky with all my recent purchases, (my Becker Necker showed up 100% ready to go) but I hear a lot about US-made knives that must have been ground on Monday morning or Friday afternoon... I have no problem fooling around with a new knife to make it better, but most folks have little patience for that sort of thing. From this thread, I'm not sure how the RTAK2 shapes up in that regard.... this would be more important to me than whether or not it has a full distal taper.

By the way, how's the sheath that comes with it? Sturdy? Awkward? Secure?
 
GibsonFan said:
*yawn*

It's a $100 knife. It does what the manu says it will do. If it feels right in your hand, you'll like it, if not, you won't. End of story.

I really would like to see another knife in this design/price class that has distal taper and all that good stuff. Not being a smart-alec, if someone is producing them, they deserve recognition.

I have a couple knives made by Camillus, like 'em a whole lot; Ontario stuff keeps catching my eye for the same reasons I like Camillus stuff. (high carbon steel, basic tough designs, not too pretty, not too pricy).

Having said that, I gotta say even on a $30 knife I would like the thing to be sharp out of the box. Not necessarily "SCARY SHARP!!" (whatever that is) but with even bevels and an actual edge on it. I've been lucky with all my recent purchases, (my Becker Necker showed up 100% ready to go) but I hear a lot about US-made knives that must have been ground on Monday morning or Friday afternoon... I have no problem fooling around with a new knife to make it better, but most folks have little patience for that sort of thing. From this thread, I'm not sure how the RTAK2 shapes up in that regard.... this would be more important to me than whether or not it has a full distal taper.

By the way, how's the sheath that comes with it? Sturdy? Awkward? Secure?
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The grind came a little too thick for my tastes, given that the knife is already fairly thin to begin with. I think it would be an even better chopper with a reprofile/back bevel and then a working edge on top of that.

The sheath was in the same class as the Becker nylon sheaths. Actually, it was remarkably close in style, materials, and design as the sheaths that come with the Ranger knives.
 
I just ordered an RTAK 2 - what do you guys think of it overall? I know very little about steel, but is this pretty decent quality?
 
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