Not to distract from your point, which I agree with, but if you disregard aesthetics I bet you can get a good working edge freehand by shaping/thinning at a low angle, then micro beveling at a higher angle. This doesn't require being able to hold a consistent angle because wobble in the shaping phase only adds convexity (and usually scratches the face of the blade), and the micro bevel only has to be at a higher angle than any part of the convex edge to make sure you reach the very apex.