Rust and forced patina on 1095

Bigfattyt

Bigfattyt

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Can any of you rats tell me how similar the rusting and patina characteristics are for 1095 and 5160?

The reason I ask, is I have a knife I made in 5160 that I put a patterned mustard patina on, and since then, have not had any rusting problems (the steel was not coated, and I had a few fingerprints cause light rust dusting).

Does 1095 seem to react similarly to a forced patina, and having fewer rust issues (obviously the coating inhibits rust, but I tend to strip my users after I have worn enough of the finish off).
 
There have been many posts showing forced patinas. Some plain and some patterned. They actually looked pretty good. I think I remember mustard and vinegar as being used the most but I would guess anything acid would work. I have used lemon juice before. Onion is supposed to be good as well.
 
I have used mustard with great results. I know how to patina, and get different patina patterns etc.

My question was how does the 1095 steel compare to 5160 in terms of patina/rust etc. (5160 is a steel that I have experience with).

Thanks for the replies.
 
I do not know for sure but I believe the protection would be about the same.
The two steels are relatively similar. If you don't like it you can remove it with some sanding.
 
LG&M said:
I do not know for sure but I believe the protection would be about the same.
The two steels are relatively similar. If you don't like it you can remove it with some sanding.
Click to expand...

on my 5160 knife, I don't even use sand paper to change my patina pattern. I usually just use my loaded strop. Takes the patina off, polishes, and gives me a fresh canvas. Removes less metal. I think I have changed the pattern on my 5160 knife 4 times at least.
 
I think either Koyote or Magnussen work with alot of 5160 (maybe both of them). These guys both know their stuff and could probably give you a good answer.
 
I used 5160 for making my first knife, because it was a steel I could do a "shade tree" back yard heat treat and temper on. I was quite surprised at how rust aggressive it seemed. But once I put a really quick patina on it, i have not had any rust issues again. And I pocket carry it, and it has lived in a leather sheath for the last two years, still no rust problems since I did some mustard patterns.
 
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Cpl Punishment said:
IMO 1095 patinas much easier than 5160 -- rusts faster as well.
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Thanks Cpl Punishment, that is what I was looking for.

here is the knife I was talking about. It is the first knife I made my self, and is 5160, with a ghetto back yard heat treat and temper (used files and sand paper to make, and drilled the tang holes and handle pin holes with a hand crank drill), all from materials and tutorials on this site.

Another forum member emailed me and asked me about the process of using mustard to get patina and patterns. Simple as pie. Take your knife (stripped bare metal) and put yellow mustard on it in patterns. Let is sit for a while (from minutes to hours, or even overnight depending on how deep you want the etch). Minutes will give you a iridescent bluish. Overnight will etch into the metal, and actually leave etch grooves into the steel. (you can use all kinds of stuff, hot sauce, tobasco, spicy yellow mustard, etc.......but it seems to me like plain old regular yellow mustard is the best so far).

I have seen knives where it looks like a hamon, when it was done by etching, or even steel that looks quite similar to pattern welded damascus from etching (by makers who know how to do it well).

IMG_1735.jpg


The lighting in these pics is terrible, but I am too lazy to get it back out for better ones.
The etch in these photos is much deeper than the earlier pic. You can see zig zag stripes in this one if you look. It is actually etched into the metal, and even with a loaded strop polish, the etch lines are still on there.
IMG_2477.jpg

IMG_2478.jpg


If I get an izula I would have to eventually strip it and make some mustard pattern patina on it for kicks (which is why I wondered if it is less or more rust aggressive than 5160).
 
Here's a 1080 blade with a mustard patina, I would imagine a 1095 blade would be somewhat similar...

DSCN3255.jpg
 
I'm surprised that 5160 is so easy to work, since I can't get anyone to make me a damned tomahawk out of the stuff. Maybe I need to get my own damned anvil. There's a market not being serviced!

Bigfattyt said:
If I get an izula I would have to eventually strip it and make some mustard pattern patina on it for kicks (which is why I wondered if it is less or more rust aggressive than 5160).
Click to expand...

Yep, all my HI stuff is 5160 and I noticed 2 things:
1.) With a polished finish they don't rust.
2.) With a patina they don't rust.

Anything else and they rust like crazy.

When I got my RAT Pack RC3, I cut up some onions with it and didn't wash it off, and it formed a nice patina all along the edge.
 
Chunky salsa can also leave an interesting patina :)
 
Depends on where you carry your knives. Sometimes situations dictate DEEP carry. :D
 
Actually, that may be a ploy for the old lady. . .

"No, dear, those aren't skid marks in my drawers, I patina-ed them!"

Of course don't do this if she's blonde, she'll want to know who the hell Tina is. . .
 
Sadly I have to say that last one made me blow tea through my nose:D
 
Boy, good thing I didn't post my comment about a forced patina!!

Think about what would have come out of where from that!

:cool:
 
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