Rust blueing

D

Doug Timbs

Joined
Sep 16, 2004
Messages
249
Hey guys,
Had my first attempt at rust blueing a couple of months back, pretty happy with the results but I'd like to know how everyone else does it in case there is any other ways to approach it. The solution was made up by a Gunsmith I know and it came from a recipe from a guy that does resto work on high grade shotguns. Basically involves dissolving iron horseshoe nails in an acid solution.
This is the blade I started with. Damascus from Robert Eggerling, etched a bit deeper than normal and finished with 2000 grit paper.



Clean the blade THOUGHORLY, several times. Wipe a thin coat of the solution on the blade, don't overcoat. Leave for 24 hours. You can actually watch the rust forming.



At this point I was thinking what have you done stupid. Didn't look good at all. Next step is to boil in clean water for 30 minutes. Got busted by the wife for using the good pot.



Now the blade has turned black. Card with 0000 steel wool. Now looks more promising.



Repeat this process up to 10 or 12 times. I did it 7 times and on the last coat, the blade did not show any rusting at all. to finish, boil blade again in soda to kill any remaining acid and soak in oil overnight. Again, I was happy with the finish, just interested in any other methods. Here's the finished blade. Excuse the crap photo's.




Thanks, Doug
 
Doug, sorry this has nothing to do with your bluing question (looks great by the way) but is there a reason for the step down tang? Never seen it done that way before, always tapered.
 
Hi Patrice, the knife has a frame handle and the spacer finishes at the step. The handle frame fits up against the step and spacer. Don't have a pic of the frame, but this one shows the fittings in place ready for the handle. Hopes that's clear enough.
Cheers, Doug

 
Ripped a recipe from a patina thread awhile back, it's a hot process with salt laden hydrogen peroxide and vinegar. Works amazing!
 
Looks good to me, ofcourse now I want to know the solution so I can try it myself. I have had good luck with boiling in a baking soda solution (think it was a thread Page posted in about it) after the etch and it works really well in helping to hold the black per say.
 
I chose the rust blue mainly because the only heat involved is boiling water, not going to affect the temper of the blade. I've also been told by a number of gunsmiths that this is the best blueing finish available, although I don't know a lot about different blueing methods. I must admit I had second thoughts about doing this after I put the first coat on, I was amazed at how quickly the rust formed.

Quint, thanks for the tip on the baking soda, will give it a try next time. I will try to find the recipe for the solution and post it for you.

Almost forgot, the fittings on the knife are Nitre Blued. First time I've tried this as well. My mate the gunsmith told me to use a lead melting pot to melt the salts if I was only doing small parts, worked really well and is easier than setting up a tank and burner.

Thanks for the comments guys, Doug
 
Looks like you have a nice finish there to top off a really nice blade.

When I rust blue, I boil in water with tannic acid. I use sumac leaves in the water for their tannic acid content. I think it produces a deeper black this way. When a light oiling, it becomes a deep shiny black.
 
dkaschner said:
Looks like you have a nice finish there to top off a really nice blade.

When I rust blue, I boil in water with tannic acid. I use sumac leaves in the water for their tannic acid content. I think it produces a deeper black this way. When a light oiling, it becomes a deep shiny black.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip mate, I'll give it a try next time.


Doug
 
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