Rust In Me New Talon Holes...

Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Messages
7,198
Got this off of the Exchange to help me through the 1 to 4 Ganza waiting weeks...

Gave it a wash, Dry, and a shot of WD40, but still woke up to RUST!!:mad: :mad: :mad:

This is the first time I have seen rust on INFI. It gave me a sick feeling like seeing a squirrel get hit:( :(

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I was going to call the shop and see if Jerry would send it to a labratory to have some tests run. Maybe a closer look with an Electron Microscope,
but then it wiped right out with an oiled Q-tip;) ;
 
Who ever ordered all the Steel Hearts with the Swedge has good taste:thumbup: :thumbup:

There is a rumor that there is a HOGFSH LE with the swedge treatment:eek:
I wish they would post some PIX!!
 
If only INFI were stainless! I too hate rust with a passion. There is nothing quite like the horror of finding your expensive knife pitted and suffering from severe oxidization. My Mission knives don't suffer from this malady.

In wetter climates, beware. The rust demon lurketh. I have a can of wd-40 handy and I make it a point to clean and lube my knives after each use in an effort to keep the demon at bay.
 
Less drooling will help SN. ;)

Ren-wax will help. Of course, teh challenge is getting it INTO the talon-hole.

I'm not a WD-40 fan. It's not a great protectant. I'd be going for a good CLP-type oil first. Maybe some G96, if I didn't use Ren-wax.
 
The nice thing about INFI is that if you do find rust and you get to it early enough, all you need is a wee bit of WD40 and a qtip or some super fine steel wool. A quick wipe and it is gone. The talon holes I think are susceptible to rust because of their shape and location. They are always near the sweat of you hand and they are perfect for collecting a bit of moisture. Be proactive and take some marine tuf cloth and use a qtip to push it through and swab it around. I have one DCBB Meaner Street that I have worn off and on since I bought it. I wear it under my shirt agains my skin in a kydex sheath. I am a big boy and sweat profusely when the temp is right. This thing has been soaked for days at a time without and wiping. The blade remained free of any rust except for the tip where the moisture would accumulate and drip off. The cutting edge is free of rust but the spine side had a bit of scale which quickly went away with some rust eater/WD40 type lube and some fine steel wool, but there is a dark patina in its place. There was similar oxidation in the talon hoies and they responded the same to cleaning. The spine of the handle got fine speckles of orange rust like that pictured above. A quick spray and soak in time (minute or two) and that wiped of with a few passes from fine steel wool with no dark patina. I have honestly had stainless knives that rusted worse. I love this steel, it is the way it handles rust that has solidified my use of it as my sole choice for knives. Sure I have some Rats and Dogs, but INFI rules head and shoulders when it comes to rust and for my sweaty self, that means a lot.
 
There seem to be 3 data points mentioned above that indicate that the DC finish might be more susceptible to rusting. Anyone else find this to be the case?
 
I am going to order some of the Marine tough cloths.
I read a post by Garth saying all he used was WD40...and I already had some.
But if the MTC can stand up to days on end of sweaty punishment...:eek:


I usually dry the handles with a hair dryer in case any moisture got behind the handle or rivets,
But My wife was making fun of me and Laughing at for pampering my toys.:p
 
I've been told by someone I trust comletely that the propellant in WD40 is mildly corrosive and leaves a residue. I don't use it anymore as either a lubricant or as a cleaning agent.
 
When I stripped my FBM I found rust pitted all over the blade :eek: I was a little suprised that it had creeped through the chipped areas in the urban grey coating. Didn't matter much after I blasted it:thumbup: taped my edges up and in aboot five minutes had a spotless, beautiful blade again! A heavy coating of choji oil and I have myself a great DIY finish and a grey color that matches the original:cool:
 
The DC finish will definitely rust easier than Satin. It is because the little tiny craters created by the blasting media collects and traps moisture.

You can try the steel wool with WD40 to remove the rust. I like to use something called Miracle Cloth or something like that..... I forget the exact name . The lead removal cloth also works well at removing rust. They are basically cloth loaded with oils and very mild abrasives.

Marine Tuff Cloth is good stuff. I have been using it for a long time and it is a good rust preventive. But these days I use EEZOX more often. It is a very good cleaner, lubricant, and excellent rust preventive. It was one of the top 2 for rust preventive based on my own tests. I also remember that Miltec did not do well as a rust preventive.

But it is still hard to beat good ole wax! Non-toxic and durable :thumbup:
 
I've been told by someone I trust comletely that the propellant in WD40 is mildly corrosive and leaves a residue. I don't use it anymore as either a lubricant or as a cleaning agent.

WD40 is not a very good lubricant. It should be thought of as a penetrating agent and as a average rust preventive.
 
Princess,

If you ever sell this knife I hope that you disclose that you have soaked it in your body fluids.



The nice thing about INFI is that if you do find rust and you get to it early enough, all you need is a wee bit of WD40 and a qtip or some super fine steel wool. A quick wipe and it is gone. The talon holes I think are susceptible to rust because of their shape and location. They are always near the sweat of you hand and they are perfect for collecting a bit of moisture. Be proactive and take some marine tuf cloth and use a qtip to push it through and swab it around. I have one DCBB Meaner Street that I have worn off and on since I bought it. I wear it under my shirt agains my skin in a kydex sheath. I am a big boy and sweat profusely when the temp is right. This thing has been soaked for days at a time without and wiping. The blade remained free of any rust except for the tip where the moisture would accumulate and drip off. The cutting edge is free of rust but the spine side had a bit of scale which quickly went away with some rust eater/WD40 type lube and some fine steel wool, but there is a dark patina in its place. There was similar oxidation in the talon hoies and they responded the same to cleaning. The spine of the handle got fine speckles of orange rust like that pictured above. A quick spray and soak in time (minute or two) and that wiped of with a few passes from fine steel wool with no dark patina. I have honestly had stainless knives that rusted worse. I love this steel, it is the way it handles rust that has solidified my use of it as my sole choice for knives. Sure I have some Rats and Dogs, but INFI rules head and shoulders when it comes to rust and for my sweaty self, that means a lot.
 
Rust Happens,

Most commonly for me the Backs of the handles turn a dark grey with use.

I have seen a little reddish brown rust in tallon holes on knives I have purchased, but after I get them, all the Rust seems to be a general darkening over time.

I left a Straight Steel Heart and a Straight Badger on a Tool box in my Truck as I drove 200,000 miles over a two year time period, no oil, used the knives as needed, wiped clean with a paper towel.

I did take them out of the Truck a Couple years ago and put them back in the safe, wiped and oiled.

Most Common Red rust for me was on Satin finished knives, not Bead Blast or Double cut.
 
I picked up 5 of the "Miracle Cloth" cleaners for use on knife blades. It reminds me of Brasso in the way it cleans brass and nickel and if you wipe it down lightly with a clean cloth afterwards it leaves a protective layer. I use the "Tuff Cloth" also but over time you have to recharge the cloth with a couple drops of clean mineral spirits.
 
Don't forget Breakfree CLP. That's good stuff too. :thumbup:
 
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