Rust In Me New Talon Holes...

That's not rust! It's just a sign of protest for not having been used and sitting in a drawer/safe.....take it out and beat it up!!!:thumbup:
 
I have an Desert SE SH-E that has what appears to be two pits in the blade spine. I bough it that way. The original owner said he thought it was corrosion but I've kept it in the safe and have not had any new rust or corrosion surface.

FYI - To be on the safe side, all my firearms and knives are protected by BullFrog products and none have seen any rust or corrosion regardless of use, storage, or field conditions.

http://www.zap-enterprises.com/index.asp?category=14789
 
I have had this a few times. Very light but it was there. I use my knives a lot so figure I may have left them a little wet after clean up. Or maybe something chemical was involved. There have been other times when I left them wet longer than I should have and nothing. I'll have to look for the variable(s) involved. We need OP and RG to experiment. But over all my INFI seems to be very rust resilient!
 
I have used Birchwood Casey's Sheath for 27 years on my firearms - never a single spot of rust. Have had my rifles rained on a number of times - stripped them down, dried them and reoiled with Sheath - no rust. Use this stuff on my Busse's now with same results. Wash off with soapy water before use in food prep, and re-oil after. A little simple, basic care goes a long way - prevention is better than cure. Another tip is to use a small paint brush (1/2" or so) to work the oil into the nooks and crannies, and generally onto all metal surfaces.
 
Ban said:
The DC finish will definitely rust easier than Satin. It is because the little tiny craters created by the blasting media collects and traps moisture.
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I'm not 100% sure, but I've read on the forums that there's 2 ways to blast a knife. The right way, which basically pounds the knife with a lot of tiny round objects, and the wrong way, which uses broken media, leaving many micro scratches. Theoretically, if done correctly this should act the same as polishing.
 
Progunner said:
The talon holes I think are susceptible to rust because of their shape and location. They are always near the sweat of you hand and they are perfect for collecting a bit of moisture. Be proactive and take some marine tuf cloth and use a qtip to push it through and swab it around.
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I agree with the need to protect the talon hole, but I think the reason that they rust in first place is because they're not finished. I've never seen a Busse yet with the inside of the talon hole polished.
 
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