Rust inside the liners?

T

The Law

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Jan 8, 2013
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45
I've got a GEC pony jack (carbon steel blades, liners and bolsters) and have noticed quite a few red rust spots all in the liners. Is this normal and easy to clean? Thanks for the help!

-Law
 
I have been dealing with that on my charlow and have been lightly forcing a patina with lemon juice on the bolsters and liners to prevent the red rust spots.
 
Mineral oil and a bit of paper towel in between the liners. I use a bamboo meat scewer for heavier rust.

Regards

Robin
 
Didn't wanna hi-jack the other dude's thread so I created my own.

I just don't understand why anyone would do steel liners rather than brass. Brass is the way to go. I love 1095 blades and I can easily maintain them. Non-stainless liners are a bear to keep from rusting, unlike the blade, IMO. I see no reason to use steel either. Not like we need the Pony Jack to baton through a tree. Plus I bet any perceived strength from having steel liners (vs brass) would be negligible.

I guess what I'm asking is why use steel rather than brass for liners on any traditional knife, GEC or otherwise?
 
It is considered a mark of quality I suppose, in line with customs which are almost always all-steel construction, and is traditional in its own right (nickel silver, iron, and steel bolsters and liners have all been traditionally used in addition to brass.) Personally I very much like the look of an all-steel knife. And brass tarnishes just as steel rusts, I would argue. De gustibus...
 
I give mine a squirt with tuff glide at the same time as oiling the pivot as I noticed rust spots on all my steel framed GEC's. We'll see how that goes...

Sam
 
David Lowry said:
Didn't wanna hi-jack the other dude's thread so I created my own.

I just don't understand why anyone would do steel liners rather than brass. Brass is the way to go. I love 1095 blades and I can easily maintain them. Non-stainless liners are a bear to keep from rusting, unlike the blade, IMO. I see no reason to use steel either. Not like we need the Pony Jack to baton through a tree. Plus I bet any perceived strength from having steel liners (vs brass) would be negligible.

I guess what I'm asking is why use steel rather than brass for liners on any traditional knife, GEC or otherwise?
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I'm with you on that... It is a handle we're talking about. So, if steel is going to be used, then stainless would be the ideal material, allowing for less hassles on a handle one is obviously handling with ones possibly sweaty hands and such. When I handle a knife, after use I wipe down the blade... don't want to put as much, or more effort, in wiping down the frame. Gonna put it in a pocket, that frame is in a somewhat hostile environment. Just think that a pocket knife's handle being constructed with carbon steel liners, bolsters, and/or springs, is not the way to go, imo :-)
 
Traditional. In the later part of the 1800's most factory produced pocket knives had steel liners. GEC makes all steel pocket knives (carbon steel blades, steel bolsters, pins and liners), just to be Traditional.
 
Hi David, I'm going to merge this with the current rust on the Pony Jack thread. I think they complement each other very well and it'll make for an easier search in the future.
 
I like the look of all steel too, I was caught out by my eureka jack, which started showing red rust in the liners, I have never had rust problems with carbon steel blades and I am now extra vigilant oiling the liners too.
 
Do you guys use one of those air cans to blow out the liners or just run a thin piece of knapkin? I notice a little grit or sandy feeling when I open my blades.
 
Peregrin, thanks sir. I just didn't want to post this in this thread because I wasn't sure if I should so thanks for taking care of it. I dig it. :)
 
sunandsteel said:
Do you guys use one of those air cans to blow out the liners or just run a thin piece of knapkin? I notice a little grit or sandy feeling when I open my blades.
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If I'm really cleaning a knife up (usually a new knife prior to use) I'll rinse it out really well with hot soapy water using a degreasing dishwashing liquid like Dawn. I work the blades open and closed and swish them around in the water to help clean out any gunk. Then I rinse with hot water and dry as well as I can with paper towels. I use a can of compressed air to blow out any remaining water. Then I spray with WD40 Silicone spray and work the blades some more.

After that I do the best I can with paper towels to soak up / wipe off the remaining WD-40.

For getting inside the liners I use a wooden coffee stirrer and either use a torn off piece of paper towel or some gun-cleaning patches. I adjust the shape/width of the coffee stirrer by whittling it into whatever kind of crevice tool I need.

I may also use a light coat of Eezox gun protectant as a finishing step.
 
rma100 said:
Traditional. In the later part of the 1800's most factory produced pocket knives had steel liners. GEC makes all steel pocket knives (carbon steel blades, steel bolsters, pins and liners), just to be Traditional.
Click to expand...

This would be the answer. GEC makes great effort to build these knives just like they were "in the good ole days". Steel was common and in reality is probably a bit stronger too from a purely construction standpoint. But yes it's a maintenance issue, so use a Q-tip or tissue to wipe that area out and apply a thin coat of oil. I do like brass liners as I like the look of them too as well as no maintenance issue with them. But steel was probably just as common if not more so I suppose.
 
Both mineral oil and, if you don't mind the very slight taste of oil with your eggs, Rem Oil works well.
 
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Initially when I bought my Charlow, I rinsed the whole thing with water and a little soap in order to try and flush out debris and gunk from manufacturing. I didn't realize at the time that the liners would rust very quickly. Within a few minutes I saw rust. What I then did was I took gun cleaning patches, put some oil on them, and then covered the metal opener (forgot the correct name) that came with the knife with the gun patch. I then rubbed the patch all along the inside liners and removed all the visible rust.

Knock on wood, I haven't seen rust on the liners since that one incident.
 
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