Rust inside the liners?

Just think of all the rust building up between the liners and the covers that you can't get to with patches, toothpicks, Q-tips, BBQ skewers, etc..:barf: Now, that's something for some of you guys/gals to think about.
 
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Modoc ED said:
Just think of all the rust building up between the liners and the covers that you can't get to with patches, toothpicks, Q-tips, BBQ skewers, etc..:barf: Now, that's something to think about.
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Oh sure! Now you've stirred the pot!;)

A quick wash with real hot soapy water followed by a blow dyer and oiling works for me.
 
Modoc ED said:
Just think of all the rust building up between the liners and the covers that you can't get to with patches, toothpicks, Q-tips, BBQ skewers, etc..:barf: Now, that's something for some of you guys/gals to think about.
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Oh man. This is the kind of stuff I hate to hear. I didn't even think about that until now. Welp.....not gonna buy any knives without brass liners unless the steel is stainless.
 
David Lowry said:
Oh man. This is the kind of stuff I hate to hear. I didn't even think about that until now. Welp.....not gonna buy any knives without brass liners unless the steel is stainless.
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There is one possible cure for the rust between the covers and liner problem. Lightly moisten your lips with food grade mineral oil and while watching TV, put the spine of the knife in question to your lips and blow and blow and blow.:eek: This may or may not oil the area between the covers and liner of the knife.:rolleyes:
 
Steel frames are stiffer and flex less than brass or N/S; try squeezing the frame together on both. Brass also can cause verdigris on some knives, especially if in contact with leather. I like N/S myself, but it's rather rare on production knives and shares similar corrosion issues with brass.

As far as rust, there are many rust inhibiting products available that you can just wipe on, leaving a thin coating on the steel frame. Some of these products are made for sporting arms (like Birchwood Casey Barricade) and quite a few for marine use. A really good product is Boeshield T-9 available in spray or liquid; it has waxes included that stick to the metal for a long time. (also good for 1095 blades, but don't use your knife for food after):barf:

I mix T-9 with light machine oil on a rag for a thinner protection layer; just wipe on. I use the stuff full strength for corrosion resistance on my boat which is constantly in contact with salt water; works good.

I don't sell the products mentioned nor do I have any skin in the game. Jus' sayin'. :)
 
Either that, or just don't worry about it much. I mean there are knives that are a hundred years old still around. I oil mine and forget it. What's going to happen, will. Some of my favorite knives have spots on them. Some of my favorite people have wrinkles. All good!
 
Modoc ED said:
Just think of all the rust building up between the liners and the covers that you can't get to with patches, toothpicks, Q-tips, BBQ skewers, etc..:barf: Now, that's something for some of you guys/gals to think about.
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This is a good reason to avoid the soap & water method, but if you go that route, use hot soapy water and blow the knife out with compressed air while it's still warm and it should be fine, as long as your didn't blow the knife out of your hand and across the garage floor! :eek: :eek: :eek: (another reason to avoid)

WD-40 works well for flushing out (displacing) water as well and is safer.
 
roseskunk said:
Either that, or just don't worry about it much. I mean there are knives that are a hundred years old still around. I oil mine and forget it. What's going to happen, will. Some of my favorite knives have spots on them. Some of my favorite people have wrinkles. All good!
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+1 :thumbup:
 
roseskunk said:
Either that, or just don't worry about it much. I mean there are knives that are a hundred years old still around. I oil mine and forget it. What's going to happen, will. Some of my favorite knives have spots on them. Some of my favorite people have wrinkles. All good!
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Well put. I may just reevaluate not getting a Pony Jack....or any other steel knife.

Sometimes you need a little reminder like this to keep ya on track.
 
gunstockjack said:
Brass also can cause verdigris on some knives, especially if in contact with leather.
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*Lightbulb*

(Wonder how that happened so quickly, a bit o' blossoming verdigris on one of my little #25s.)

Thanks, Barry. :)

I'm partial to my suede-lined knife drawers, but this calls for a re-think.

~ P.
 
Modoc ED said:
There is one possible cure for the rust between the covers and liner problem. Lightly moisten your lips with food grade mineral oil and while watching TV, put the spine of the knife in question to your lips and blow and blow and blow.:eek: This may or may not oil the area between the covers and liner of the knife.:rolleyes:
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Yeah............:D
 
Modoc ED said:
There is one possible cure for the rust between the covers and liner problem. Lightly moisten your lips with food grade mineral oil and while watching TV, put the spine of the knife in question to your lips and blow and blow and blow.:eek: This may or may not oil the area between the covers and liner of the knife.:rolleyes:
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That might solve the problem. Although if one considers that mineral oil is sold as a laxative, other possible results of that procedure also come to mind.
 
I did find that keeping my GECs in the tube made all of them go a little rusty. I first noticed that one wasn't sharp, and had little grey specks all over hte previously sharpened edge, then I saw to my horror it was all of them. I had an intensive session of cleaning all of them up thoroughly, and will get a knife roll or a plastic tackle box with lots of silicon bags as soon as possible.
 
fatcorgi said:
I did find that keeping my GECs in the tube made all of them go a little rusty. .
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Knock on wood, thankfully I've not had that issue. Did you put them away lightly oiled? Of course they come that way from GEC, but some dealers/distributors clean the oil from them, I assume while photographing them. The ones I put up or leave in the tubes have either been lightly oiled or wiped down thoroughly with a chamois cloth to remove any trace of moisture or oil from my fingers/hands.
 
Im not wild about the idea of steel liners or bolsters unless stainless. I have kind of sweaty paws and even carbon springs get kind of grungy in my hands and impart the grunge to my hands as well. Not a fan of the Uncle Henry knives because the carbon springs ruin the effect of the stainless blades.

For under-scale/cover rust, I bet a good soak in mineral oil will prevent it. It's good for the bone and to the extent it doesn't soak through, I bet capillary action would draw the oil up under the covers.
 
A little oil, a little wiping down, all good measures, but... air environment is big key. Storage in a wrapped up cloth could be asking for trouble, especially if high humidity and drastic temperture fluctuations are present. Has a friend destroy his stainless steel Colt Gold Cup by storing it in a wrapped up silicon cloth. Again, a bit of oil, some wiping down.... all good, but a swampy environment is not, no matter your precautions. My heat in the winter and dehumidifier and air conditioning in summer, keeps my dwelling at a pretty controlled environment... Never have had a problem with guns or similar steel items in over 30 years of owning such things :-)
 
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biglmbass said:
Knock on wood, thankfully I've not had that issue. Did you put them away lightly oiled? Of course they come that way from GEC, but some dealers/distributors clean the oil from them, I assume while photographing them. The ones I put up or leave in the tubes have either been lightly oiled or wiped down thoroughly with a chamois cloth to remove any trace of moisture or oil from my fingers/hands.
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it hasn't happened before, might be moisture in my room itself. I always oil them after use. Now they are out and I keep an eye on them. Could cardboard be like a leather sheath in transmitting moisture to the knife?
 
fatcorgi said:
I did find that keeping my GECs in the tube made all of them go a little rusty. I first noticed that one wasn't sharp, and had little grey specks all over hte previously sharpened edge, then I saw to my horror it was all of them. I had an intensive session of cleaning all of them up thoroughly, and will get a knife roll or a plastic tackle box with lots of silicon bags as soon as possible.
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Hmm that has me concerned. I know what I'll be doing tonight after my little man goes to bed! Pulling all my GEC's that are still in tubes out and inspecting them. I'm not overly concerned though as I always pull them out when I first get them and flush the joints and then give them a coating of either Breakfree CLP or Tri-Flow. I usually flush the joints with the Tri-Flow then wipe down the blades and back springs with the CLP. Seems to work really good for me but it has been a while since I have checked on a few of them.
 
fatcorgi said:
it hasn't happened before, might be moisture in my room itself. I always oil them after use. Now they are out and I keep an eye on them. Could cardboard be like a leather sheath in transmitting moisture to the knife?
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Yup, moisture seeps in and through the cardboard... then the air in that tube is a mini sauna ;-)

But of course, again, the environment the cardboard tube is stored in, will be the biggest factor. So, in a damp basement, that tube does nothing to protect, and may even worsen the situation for the tubes contents.
 
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Wash, scrub, dry and oil... If correctly cared for, your all steel pocket knife will outlive you and (at least) the next generation. There's no benefit with brass, except it looks classy and period correct (can't imagine an all steel Laguiole... Oh, they do them ? Great , but I will still go only with a brass linered one).
 
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