Call for all the tool steel lovers. How do you handle the rust problem? Do you rely merely on rust protectors like oils, etc. or do you also try to keep you blades away from moisture? Anything you should avoid to bring in contact with a tool steel knife at any cost?
Rust. Is it a problem for you?
- Thread starter Ralf
- Start date
First, let me say I envy you living in one of the most beautiful places in the US.
I have and use a few "Tool Steel Knives", such as Chris Reeves(Shadow IV and my newest: the Project I) both of which are A2.
I also have and use a knife or two from Bob Dozier(D2).
No rust problems as yet. I keep them clean and Tuf clothed and have had no problems yet.
When not in use I wrap them in Silicon cloths and store them in a fire safe.
Hope this helps.
I have and use a few "Tool Steel Knives", such as Chris Reeves(Shadow IV and my newest: the Project I) both of which are A2.
I also have and use a knife or two from Bob Dozier(D2).
No rust problems as yet. I keep them clean and Tuf clothed and have had no problems yet.
When not in use I wrap them in Silicon cloths and store them in a fire safe.
Hope this helps.
Old Knife Guy
BANNED
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2000
- Messages
- 447
Oh, yes! Everything corrodes! The pivots, the cosmetic surfaces! It stains, it takes hours to clean--and, truth be told, it's starting to develope a really rancid odor!
That's the problem with a 50 year old body.
My knives seem to be okay...--OKG
That's the problem with a 50 year old body.
My knives seem to be okay...--OKG
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2000
- Messages
- 3,625
All my knives that have rusted bar one had a glass bead finish. Would not be so bad but they were Aus6 and 440a DOH!
The other one was a D2 KaBar folder, where the thumb opens the knife, sweat gets in there. Even MS Tuf Cloth cannot protect when worn away by thumb action! MSTC seems to do the job as advertised for me.
W.A.
------------------
"To strive to seek to find and not to yield"
Tennyson
Ranger motto
The other one was a D2 KaBar folder, where the thumb opens the knife, sweat gets in there. Even MS Tuf Cloth cannot protect when worn away by thumb action! MSTC seems to do the job as advertised for me.
W.A.
------------------
"To strive to seek to find and not to yield"
Tennyson
Ranger motto
Well, i'd like to throw some more kindling on to the fire. with classic pocketknives, has anyone noticed rusting on the springs, internally? how does one treat it? how does one prevent it? are there any folders at all (traditional) made with stainless backsprings?
As a knifemaker who mostly uses O-1 and 1095,I will tell rust will be there.I also live near the beach here which doesn't help.I use Renaissance wax on my knives and store them in a display case with dessicant packs inside.Also don't store your knives in their sheathes.Good luck, Dave
I use use either Tuff Cloth or Break Free on my blades. No rust. I like Break Free for slip joints and pivots. A good penetrant that is tenacious. Lately I've been trying the teflon-based RemOil. No complaints so far.
------------------
Hoodoo
I get some pleasure from finding a relentlessly peaceful use for a combative looking knife.
JKM
------------------
Hoodoo
I get some pleasure from finding a relentlessly peaceful use for a combative looking knife.
JKM
As a user of antique carbon steel sabatier knives in the kitchen I have found that washing and thorough drying after use will keep the discolouration to a minimum. Since the knives contact food, I will wipe them down with vegetable oil. I h ave found that many veggie oils actually "harden"(like a very soft varnish) as they oxidize over a period of a month or more.
[This message has been edited by bansidthe (edited 12-15-2000).]
[This message has been edited by bansidthe (edited 12-15-2000).]
Ralf;
I to had a problem with rust. I've tried everything under the sun. So I went to the next extreme and heated my pocket and straight carry knives with a hair dryer just to warm it up, DO NOT get it hotter then you can handle, the temperture will be to high and you'll destroy some or all of the temper in the springs. They're is small room for error, not much through. then I pour Tuff Glide all over it, into it, and through it.
And set it aside to drip for a day or so, and let it dry. Pick it up and wipe off any excess and your good to go. I've taken what knives I could , apart and after 2yrs. They're perfect inside and out, pure carbon steel, sweating and condensing in my pocket!
The heat opens the pores of the metal and the Tuff Glide, and I've had great luck with Dura Lube also,impregnates the surface and dries to form a shield from moisture and then rust from forming, and yes, I got the idea from the comercials on TV, of course, on a rough day of using alot, I always wipe down the blade and thumb button with a TS marine Cloth, just to make sure on those surfaces, incase the,"shield", does where off from rubbing. Ironhorse
I to had a problem with rust. I've tried everything under the sun. So I went to the next extreme and heated my pocket and straight carry knives with a hair dryer just to warm it up, DO NOT get it hotter then you can handle, the temperture will be to high and you'll destroy some or all of the temper in the springs. They're is small room for error, not much through. then I pour Tuff Glide all over it, into it, and through it.
And set it aside to drip for a day or so, and let it dry. Pick it up and wipe off any excess and your good to go. I've taken what knives I could , apart and after 2yrs. They're perfect inside and out, pure carbon steel, sweating and condensing in my pocket!
The heat opens the pores of the metal and the Tuff Glide, and I've had great luck with Dura Lube also,impregnates the surface and dries to form a shield from moisture and then rust from forming, and yes, I got the idea from the comercials on TV, of course, on a rough day of using alot, I always wipe down the blade and thumb button with a TS marine Cloth, just to make sure on those surfaces, incase the,"shield", does where off from rubbing. Ironhorse
- Joined
- May 1, 2000
- Messages
- 2,258
I've had 2 blades rust. One was a cheap Pakistan fixed blade; water had been spilled on the bag it was in, soaking the nylon sheath, and I didn't know it for 2 days. It was a POS so I didn't even bother to clean it.
The other was bead blasted AUS-6, just a spot. I removed it w/a paper towel and WD-40. Bought Tuff-Cloth w/in a week and haven't seen any rust since.
------------------
Jason aka medusaoblongata
-----------------------
"I have often laughed at the weaklings who call themselves kind because they have no claws"
- Zarathustra
The other was bead blasted AUS-6, just a spot. I removed it w/a paper towel and WD-40. Bought Tuff-Cloth w/in a week and haven't seen any rust since.
------------------
Jason aka medusaoblongata
-----------------------
"I have often laughed at the weaklings who call themselves kind because they have no claws"
- Zarathustra