Rust on beadblast blade-what to do?

[Deon]

I find that my BM mini reflex rusts very easily and thought of having the blade hardchromed. Does anyone know if this is possible and how difficult is it to take the knife apart and re-assemble (it being an auto).

 

[Walt Welch]

Deon; if you have a bead blast blade and want to hard chrome it, it would have to be polished and then hard chromed. Hard chroming also can increase the thickness by 0.001, which may affect the operation of an auto. I don't know what the tolerances are.

This is going to be an expensive proposition. I suggest you look up some of the anti-corrosion threads on the forum; between Marine Tuf-Cloth, Butcher's wax, Renaissance wax, and the other treatments mentioned, I am sure you will find something that will keep your blade rust free. Walt

 

[Deon]

Walt, thanks for the advice.

 

[Gus Kalanzis]

As Walt stated, from previous threads, you will find that some of us like to use waxes. Some times it may be difficult to remove the excess wax completely from bead blasted blades. I place the waxed knives in a warm (not hot) area for a few min. causing the wax to liquify. The wax can then be removed easily with a soft cotton cloth. I have not had any rust problems with my BM's and MT's etc that I treat with wax and an occasional drop or two of Rem-Oil at the pivots and other appropriate areas depending upon the knife.

 

[sentry]

I am new to Blade Forums. Edge Design Knives told me I needed to get involved.My company Sentry Solutions makes the TUF-CLOTHs and also a liquid companion called TUF-GLIDE. TUF-GLIDE may be helpful as it is very effective for ensuring 100% coverage and protection. Another benefit is its lubricating properties for any moving parts. Sentry uses no oils in any of our products so there is nothing to attract and hold dirt etc. For more detailed information check out http://www.sentrysolutions.com/knife_care.htm
Hope this helps,
Mark Mrozek
Sentry Solutions Ltd.

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Mark Mrozek
www.sentrysolutions.com

 

[amacks]

I'd say lard

Aaron
ps well schmaltz, you want to keep your knife kosher

 

[Kit Carson]

I highly recommend the Sentry Solutions Tuf Cloth. I've been using them for several years and send one with every U2 and most of the folders. I've found it especially effective on the Ceramic beadblasted knives I make.

 

[Walt Welch]

Sentry; welcome to the forum. Your product's reputation preceeds you. Tuf-Cloths have been discussed several times, and I cannot recall one negative post concerning them.

Many posters (and I am one ) swear by them. In fact, a Tuf-Cloth sample saved the venerable bluing on my 1957 Gold Cup. I was at KNIFEGNUGEN, a gathering held in Arizona in October; due to space limitations, I had not brought any cleaning equipment, figuring there would be people there with plenty.

To my dismay, everyone else was shooting Glucks or Grocks or something, and apparently these never need cleaning.

Fortunately, Mad Dog had a Tuf-Cloth sample, and the bluing is still pristine.

Could you tell us a little more about Tuf-Glide; what is in it (in general terms of course), how it compares with other lubricants, and so on. Thanks in advance
Walt

 

[David Rock]

Does Superman wipe his @$$ with a Tuf-Cloth?

Just curious,
David Rock

 

[Clay Kesting]

I have a StiffKISS, AUS6 steel, bead blasted blade which shows rust spots if I wear it next to my skin for a day. OTOH my Wegner Jr, ATS34 has shown no staining despite being used every day, peeled heaps of oranges and received only an occasional wipe down. I couldn't understand why the supposedly more stainless AUS6 was rusting more than the ATS34. Yesterday I was preparing some notes on corrosion for my Engineering Science class and there was the answer.

When a drop of electrolyte (aka sweat) forms over a pit caused by bead-blasting, the centre of the drop contains less oxygen than the rim and this difference is sufficient to cause a difference in electrode potential between the inside and outside of the drop. The result is a micro Galvanic cell, current flows and the metal in the centre of the pit is corroded causing rust to be deposited around the rim of the droplet. The smoother the blade, i.e. satin or mirror finish, the less the problem.

Knowing this I will never buy another bead-blasted knife. Unfortunately this cuts some great knives off my wish list (makes Christmas shopping easier

) particularly the Genesis. Sure I could get a coated blade, but the best part about a satin finish blade is that it is easy to maintain yourself. Manufacturers, what about providing satin finished blades as another option.

Cheers,
Clay




[This message has been edited by Clay Kesting (edited 11 December 1998).]

 

[Spark]

Someone posted this awhile ago, and I just remembered it. If you are having problems with your bead blasted knives rusting, simply use an eraser on them.

I tried this on my SOCOM and it worked great, got rid of all of the rust in no time at all.

Spark

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Kevin Jon Schlossberg
SysOp and Administrator for BladeForums.com

Insert witty quip here

 

[RMLamey]

I will agree with everyone that has posted...Sentry products that ive used (tuff glide, tuff cloth) are the best of there kind. A little tuff glide in the pivot area of a new folder does wonders, also great between frame/slide of a freshly built Colt 1911.

Any how, i also use Semi-Chrome (kinda like flitz, but better) to remove some minor surface rust and stains from blades. I get it through Brownells, but i am sure it is available elsewhere.