Rust-proofing high carbon blades

K

K Rolland

Joined
Jul 15, 2004
Messages
3
Hello From Arkansas,

I was recently given what was left of a very old crosscut saw blade, which I immediately began fashioning into knives. Problem is, as you good people know this old high carbon steel rusts unbelievably fast. I’ve tried bluing the stuff with limited success and have also used some a product from Russell’s called “RustFree.” It works until it gets wiped off.

I’ve toyed with the idea of Parkerizing, or maybe some sort of powder coating. Can you folks recommend a treatment? Perhaps something a “do-it-yourselfer” could whoop up in the shop?

Thanks. I appreciate any advice I can get.
KR
 
It is not a blade coating or magical rust preventor but i have used birchwood-casey "sheath rust protector" with great success on my leatherman, knives and tools that i take deep sea fishing. It is a coating that can be wiped off but seems to penetrate the metal as well. Only thing that has stopped even stainless from rusting in that environment. NOT FOOD SAFE though. As a matter of fact not safe to apply indoors. It stinks when putting it on but goes away.
 
have you tried creating a patina with lemon juice/mustard or potato first?

I don't think using carbon steel you can kepe it rust free.
 
Welcome to Bladeforums!

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I have always liked the lemon juice patina and even though it is a form of corrosion itself it protects the blade from the bad rust. It is very easy to touch up with a lemon, something that cant be said for powdercoats and such. For at home I like Duracoat form Lauer weapon systems. You need an airbrush to apply it but you dont have to bake it ro anything.
 
Knowing how to care for the steel is the easiest, and most effective rust preventitive. I live in Georgia where it gets very humid, but my 1095 EDC only gets touched up with a little 3-n-1 oil once a week. It's got a mustard patina, and I just rub the blade and exposed tang portions down nightly with my shirt, and do the same anytime I touch it. You could probably even stretch that figure out slightly if the blade had a smoother finish. Mine wasn't polished much higher than 320 grit.
 
I always use D-2 for my blades and although it is a high carbon steel because of its high chromium content it is somewhat naturally stainless (D2 is12%.....14%-16% qualifies as "stainless") then when the knife is all done I rub it down with Renaissance wax. This seems to work well.
 
High carbon steel will rust if you do not take care of it correctly. But it is the best steel for a using knife. The heat treatment and tempering is crucial for a using knife. Carbon steel been a tradition in the cutlery for decades. It actually goes back to the Stone Age of man. take care of your knife like you would your toothbrush and you will over come the rust problem. I hope this has answered most of your questions. Have a safe day out in the shop. -------------------:thumbup:
 
wots a toothbrush?

I care for my knives more than I care for my toothbrush. ones a tool that should last for years, the others a cheap throwaway piece of plastic crap.

wie the blade off, don't put it in a sheath wet or with crap on it, once finished gutting the animal you shot, wipe it off, store in a dry place away from moisture.

If they're going to be stuck in a drawer, like the ones I only pull out once a month or so, I rub them with heavy grease before packing away.
 
I've been using carbon steel (non-stailess) knives all my life and have never had one rust, turn dark yes but never rust. In our kitchen, I never put anything on the blades, just rinse with water and wipe dry after use. I prefer a blade that develops a nice dark patina with use and care little for a shinny blade.
 
Has anyone here ever had a blade hard chromed? I've had guns with this finish and found it insanely durable. I know certain gunsmithing type places that offer this service.
 
Thanks for all the input.

I have never heard of using a lemon or veggies to establish a patina for the purpose of resisting rust. Does that actually work? If so I’ll certainly give it a try.

The “Sentry Solutions” stuff looks interesting too. Thanks for the link. So does something I just came across called “Gun-Kote” from KG Industries. I think these types of treatments are probably what I’m looking for if they live up to their promises. Sounds like some of you guys have had good success with them.

Like you Ellison, I use D2 almost exclusively for my knives and in a way that’s what led to the problem. My wife has gotten used to mistreating the kitchen knives I made for her from D2 because they are darn near indestructible. I have Texas Knife heat treat and cryogenically treat my D2 which makes for a remarkably durable blade. They won’t rust when left in dishwater overnight, (not because of the treatment, but because it’s D2) and will hold an edge even after being thrown repeatedly into the silverware drawer.

So, when she got a hold of these high carbon blades, she treated them like all the others. Needless to say, you can’t leave one of these babies in the sink overnight if you expect it to stay rust free. It’s appears especially bad when I have put a near mirror polish on one. Fortunately they buff back to a shine easily but it is a pain in the rear after all that work.

A little maintenance goes a long way. I hear you. I know this to be true. I also know that the good people I have given some of these knives to (like my wife) probably won’t take the time to properly take care for the steel in all instances. Since I hate to see good steel go to waste and since I have enough left here for probably a dozen more knives, I believe I will go for one of these military gun coatings. Those look to be the most promising.

Again, I appreciate everyone’s input. Remember the words of my old pappy, “If you never cut towards yourself, you’ll never cut yourself.”

Smart man. You guys take care -

PS – Hey, Elgenrunner – I work in Wynne. Small world huh?
 
Allan Molstad said:
That would be for an art knife ?

Just to sharpen an edge you are grinding away steel, so if you had coated the sides with chrome it's going to get stripped away too right?
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It would be no different than any other blade coating to prevent corrosion, except I believe it would be much more durable/long lasting. It can by shiny, or matte, and I think it can be blackened as well. Basically the edge would be the only part you have to worry about rusting, which would be touched up all the time anyhow.

I don't think this, or anything else we've discussed in this thread, would matter if you have a full convex grind where you sharpen the entire bevel at every sitting though.
 
It's an interesting question, especially for kitchen knives. I like the way basic high carbon steels cut and sharpen, and don't mind their tendency to darken. The only knife I've put actual rust spots on is a TrailMaster; I purposely left it it's leather sheath overnight after cutting and splitting firewood in the rain. The red spots, no more than 3/16" in diameter, buffed off easily with 0000 steel wool. I can live with that kind of corrosion.

I've heard some people can taste the steel on food that's been cut with a high-carbon blade, any thoughts on this? I've never noticed a difference.
 
I have never had a problem with my Ka-Bars, I stripped the black coating off them and polished them to a mirror finish.
When they are not being used I give them a light coat of either machine Oil or Silicone spray.
When I am in the Bush they get used and cared for on a daily basis.
I call it Maintenance ;)
 
Do a search in thr traditional knives forum for "patina" and you will find several threads on how to do it, some with pictures. I agree with many above that a nice natural patina is beautiful. I am letting my stockman develop one naturally instead of forcing it. All the same, one way just takes a little longer.

P.S. I live in the humid state of florida and so far no worries over the patina unless I am close to the marine environment.
 
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