Rust question!

euroross

euroross

Joined
May 19, 2008
Messages
1,746
I need some help> I just got a Bark River Bravo 1, and it has some rust on it! Im slightly pissed as it was $200. Its not much, on the front of the tang. If i run my finger nail across it, I cant feel it but its almost all the way down! What should I do? I have some wet/dry 600 grit sandpaper. Would that work or should I try something else? Thanks!!!!
 
its a carbon steel. they rust... plain and simple. hell even my sebenza in s30v gets rust spots, i haven't had to sand them though, just a little persistent wiping with my finger or better yet a rag or some felt has always done the trick
 
Hit it with some WD40 - whatever doesn't wash off will make some nice patina - keep your blade oiled!
 
Try some 0000 steel wool and WD40. I'd be a little careful with the ScotchBrite, especially if it ts the green stuff. I believe that they have some silicon carbide abrasive in it, so is may leave some fine scratches. I did it to a car window.
 
i use fine bronze wool on steel surfaces i want less potential scratch patterns on where the rust is stubborn. on light and easy to remove rust i use a scrotch brite (non scratch version...the blue one) pad. i also use steel 00 or 0000 wool, if i want heavy duty and don't care if i leave superficial scratches or pieces of steel fibers everywhere that can find their way into any crevice or space. on folders, for example, i find bronze is a better choice than steel wool, ymmv.

seems to get rid of most rust patterns. if the rust is deep and in pits like on a bead blasted surface.....i use a bronze brush for cleaning pistols. doesn't seem to scratch much if at all....but then again i am not bearing down hard either. then i oil it and problem goes away. sometimes when the rust is stubborn i brush/scrub the surface stuff off...and then let it sit overnight(out of the reach of pets, small children and even my wife:), etc.) wet from oil...and then it comes off much easier.

i prefer gun oils over wd-40's and such. oils are a everyone has an opinion deal so i wont' try to open that door, but most of the brands seem to do quite well removing rust. be careful with clp types though those solvents can do nasty things to certain materials. and obviously wash the knife of oils afterwards if you will be cutting food and such with it. that little tid bit isn't so much for you, rather casual readers who might find this thread in a search.
 
jbmonkey said:
ii prefer gun oils over wd-40's and such. oils are a everyone has an opinion deal so i wont' try to open that door, but most of the brands seem to do quite well removing rust. be careful with clp types though those solvents can do nasty things to certain materials. and obviously wash the knife of oils afterwards if you will be cutting food and such with it. that little tid bit isn't so much for you, rather casual readers who might find this thread in a search.
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Sorry, I should've clarified - WD40 to remove rust. There are other much better oils for preservation.
 
ScotchBrite worked great! I used the green one? Didnt know there were different colors or styles. Thanks everyone for there input.
 
Food grade mineral oil available at pharmacies works great, plus it's not toxic. A little goes a long way. ;)
 
jbmonkey said:
oils are a everyone has an opinion deal so i wont' try to open that door, but most of the brands seem to do quite well removing rust.
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Never has a truer statement been spoken! :D

FWIW, I've read many good things about Benchmades lubricant, but have yet to try it myself...
 
ono724 said:
Never has a truer statement been spoken! :D

FWIW, I've read many good things about Benchmades lubricant, but have yet to try it myself...
Click to expand...

Blue Lube is pretty good. I tried it on a Large Sebenza Insingo and so far so good. I would say that it might work better for pivots or slip joints than it would for a blade coating.
 
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