Rusting CRKT Ryan 7

The only knife I've ever had rust was an AUS6 CRKT. It was just a spot and was easy enough to take care of with a paper towel and WD40. I started using tuff-cloth on it soon after and no problems since.

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Jason aka medusaoblongata
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"Is not giving a need? Is not receiving mercy?" - Thus Spoke Zarathustra
"Cutting his throat is only a momentary pleasure and is bound to get you talked about." - Lazarus Long
"Knowledge is not made for understanding; it is made for cutting." - Michel Foucault
 
See2

When you use the Marine Tuf-Cloth, you can let the coating dry, and then buff if off with a clean cloth with no loss of protective quality. No sticky residue to attract lint. This is Sentry Solutions suggestion, not mine. You might want to give it a try.

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Dick

[This message has been edited by knifenerd (edited 05-06-2001).]
 
Really?! COOL! I'll try that right now. Thanks!

John - thank you, too! Now, is the T10 for ALL of the little bastids, or is that just for the pivot screw?
 
Sorry buddy, I didn't take the rest of the body down, but took out the pivot and the blade. The body and clip screws are T6.

Just for the record, I freaking hate Torx screws.

John
 
biggrin.gif
 
Last Saturday I was going to a party at which I knew there would be a lot of martial artists. I put an original Ryan Model 7 in my pocket along with a brand new CRKT version because I thought a few people might want to compare them. The CRKT version was in my pocket for a few hours when I took it out and noticed rust spotting on the side of the blade bearing the Ryan mark. I was really surprised because I hadn't been walking and sweating----just standing around at a party.

I haven't tried to do anything serious about the rust spots yet (needless to say, an oily cloth didn't touch them). I told a precision machinist that I was considering light application of some 0000 steel wool. He suggested that I first try rubbing the spots with an eraser (pencil eraser first, then pen eraser). I'll try that this evening and post the results.

Otherwise, I think the knife is terrific. It is a more convenient size than my original, especially when wearing nice slacks. The only thing I plan to do is sand a couple of the sharp edges near the liner lock side of the main finger cutout.

DPD
 
That's funny, I love Torx screws, I wish everybody would use them. I mean, invest in a decent set of mini-Torx scewdrivers ($20 at Home Depot) or even the Benchmade pocket torx set, and you have everything you need to service just about any knife out there that uses torx.
You don't have to press down on torx like you do with phillips. You don't have to keep it from slipping out like you do with slotted. You don't have to worry about it stripping like you do with allen/hex. It's a near perfect standard, except for the fact that hardly anybody uses it and hardly anybody has the tools for it.
 
DPD - Spark suggested the same thing to me, and I'll be damned - it worked! Like I told him: I don't know how he knew, I don't even know why he thought to TRY, but it did work. So, I'm happy again.

You like the CRKT better than the original, eh? Is it just the size difference? I plan on ordering an "original" from Steve when he starts taking orders again, so I'm curious.
 
See2,

You are correct; the eraser did a reasonably good job. I found that I needed a more abrasive pen eraser because the softer pencil eraser wasn't getting the job done. I rubbed a bit too hard where the grind bevel starts and created a small shiny spot. However, there was no damage to the Ryan mark.

With regard to preventing future problems, I was advised to try some Boeshield T-9. It was developed in conjunction with Boeing to protect jet components in some very harsh conditions where significant corrosion could be catastrophic. It apparently has both petroleum and wax type elements in it. They say it does not leave a tacky finish or attract dirt. I'll give it a try.

With regard to the original Ryan, I'm sorry that I gave you the wrong impression. What I meant to convey was that the production model fits a suit pocket a bit more conveniently than the larger custom. However, I really love the custom piece. Steve's hand-ground blade is significantly longer(1/2 to 3/4 inch) and has more "belly" to it. The chisel grind produces a very aggressive edge. It is also massively strong. The opening hole is easy to reach. The action is smooth enough for effortless kinetic openings too.

The sturdy titanium frame of the custom Model 7 is likewise very impressive and fits my hand perfectly in either forward or reverse grip. The knife feels like it would work especially well in reverse grip because the belly of the blade seems to project forward farther than with many folders.

The G10 scales on the custom feel better than the production handle slabs, although CRKT did a pretty decent job of texturizing the production zytel. My custom has more aggressive cutouts than the production model and I like the extra grip they offer. When you order a custom, you may be able to get Steve to radically skeletonize the scales. It looks extremely cool and feels great----wish I had opted for that!

Steve's custom obviously doesn't have the backup lock, but it isn't needed. The lock engagement area is very substantial and the lock is really solid. He fits the new locks to allow for wear.

When wearing jeans or casual slacks, the custom Ryan rides fine. I meant only to suggest that the production model is a bit more comfortable in the pocket of a fitted suit. I encourage you to pursue a custom Model 7 (or one of Steve's other excellent designs) and am sure you will be very happy with it.

DPD
 
Check some of the current threads on rust prevention, waxes, etc. One person reported that the Boeshield attracts dirt, so he doesn't use it on knives. An alternative suggestion was "CorrosionX".

DPD
 
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