Rustproofing

C

clearblue

Joined
Oct 22, 2002
Messages
630
Along with Bruises gloop(lanolin salve preparations), I've found a couple of coatings that are working pretty good depending on how permanent you want the coating to last.

#1
Perma Slik G
Original MIL SPEC Moly Film Dry lube finish to restore your USGI 20 round mags to like NEW condition. Color is a dull flat grey identical to NEW USGI 20 round mags. One can will refinish about 25 mags inside and out.
This item is ORM-D.We no longer use UPS--we ship these items via Fed Ex Ground. Perma Slik G Each: $16.00

http://www.georgiaprecision.com/cart/items/Magazineparts.htm

You can remove this product with steel wool and it will scrape off from usage unlike #2.




#2
Moly Resin™ will adhere to all metals including the following: aluminum, carbon steel, stainless steel, sandblasted and glass beaded metal, cast iron and aluminum, titanium, copper, silver solder, blued or parkerized finish, anodized, nickel and chrome plate, and many plastics, etc. Note: nickel and chrome plated surfaces should be abrasive blasted to allow the best adhesion of the Resin. For all metals, best overall results are achieved on freshly sandblasted surfaces. Moly Resin™ is available in the following ten standard colors but other colors may be special ordered. Special ordered colors are available in a minimum quantity of four quarts (one gallon).

Other Applications:
Moly Resin™ is currently being used as a coating by manufacturers of shooting glasses, caustic chemical valve and automotive parts manufacturers, gunsmith schools, as well as, for surgical tools. The applications are numerous and varied.

http://www.johnnorrellarms.com/molyresin_tips.asp

This is a seriously permanent hard finish
 
Thanks to your initial input,I finally found the Evaporust by calling the company in Arkansas and they were able to direct me to the closest Walmart that carries it.Not all do.

I bought 2 quarts and have been using it on some old machetes and it does work good. It dries pretty fast and leaves a sticky film over the metal.
 
Originally posted by clearblue ....... Evaporust ........ dries pretty fast and leaves a sticky film over the metal.
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I haven't tried it as a preventative.

"Sticky" Do you drip-dry or wipe it to leave a very thin film?
 
Originally posted by ddean
I haven't tried it as a preventative.

"Sticky" Do you drip-dry or wipe it to leave a very thin film?
Click to expand...

I usually just let it drip or air dry.

I put it on a brand new "Valiant" Golok carbon steel blade to see what effect it would have on new unrusted metal. When it dried it had slightly stained the steel a light almost caramel color in some areas. I washed it off with soap and water and wooled it then blued the blade with Brownell's Oxpho Blue and it came out a beautiful dark blue that reflects rainbow colors when held in the sunlight.

Since the machete blades are so long and I haven't figured out a way to pour the Evaporust into a container to soak the metal,plus I don't relish wasting it,I've put the liquid into a squirt bottle and run a line down the blade,spread it out with my finger and let it sit for a day. When I return I rinse the blade off with water and rub it down with steel wool.Where it pools on a blade the area will be very dark but lightens with a few strokes of the wool.

They recommend that you cover the rusted area with a well soaked sponge or rag if you can't follow the preferred method of complete submersion. So far I haven't encountered anything that is more effective at dissolving removing rust. I particularly like it's lack of toxicity. It causes no problem when it gets on the skin or is breathed and washes off readily with plain water and soap.
 
Originally posted by clearblue
I particularly like it's lack of toxicity.
Click to expand...

How is it as a beverage? :D

Sorta off the topic... What grit sandpaper for removing fine rust and or stains on the blade?
 
"What grit sandpaper for removing fine rust and or stains on the blade?"

If stuff like Flitz doesn't work alone, or I don't want to wash off the oil on the blade, I try 0000 steel wool first since it is much softer than sandpaper. If that's not enough I start out with as fine a paper as I can get and move move to the next coarser until the job is done. Reverse order to try and polish. The finest Scotchbrite pads work too. Sometimes pitting is just gonna have to stay if it is too deep, just make sure that orange, active rust is gone.

Note that it's not great to use ordinary steel wool on corroding stainless steel--tiny bits of ordinary steel can get embedded and later cause much faster than usual corrosion.
 
I've had good results starting with 4 or 600 grit then working up to 2500 grit wet or dry.

I just lucked into 100 sheets of the 2500 grit on ebay's "sandpaper" site at a steal of a price. There almost always seems to be plenty of 1500 and 2000 grit adverted there.
 
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