Rusty Old Bucking Saw Quetion or Questions

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marbat

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Aug 11, 2015
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I'm trying to bring an old saw back to life that was very rusty one one side. I don't have a picture at the moment but it is heavy pitted.
Question is, Am I wasting my time trying to restore this saw?
I'll try to take a picture tomorrow and post it.

I have another saw but will ask a question about it later on. In the meantime, think I will look into getting tools to try my hand at maintaining them.
Is this set worth it or should I look else where? http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/Products.asp?mi=14681&itemnum=75169
 
First off, I have some limited experience with saw restoration. Not expert or trying to sound like one. So FWIW

marbat said:
I'm trying to bring an old saw back to life that was very rusty one one side. I don't have a picture at the moment but it is heavy pitted.
Question is, Am I wasting my time trying to restore this saw?
I'll try to take a picture tomorrow and post it.
. . .
Click to expand...

Pictures will help, but in the end you will have to know what work will need to be done and decide if it's worth your time. I am assuming you haven't filed a saw before. So as Square_peg said "study". Also, as he suggests there are some good videos on YouTube. Most if not all I've seen on YouTube are for peg and raker saws (I assume that is what you have). I really like this one.

[video=youtube;FrYsFlx3OSY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrYsFlx3OSY&index=8&list=FLgV7tWl2uLukosOYiuy1J9Q[/video]

A lot of information/instructions can easily be found on the web.

marbat said:
. . .
Is this set worth it or should I look else where? . . .
Click to expand...

I don't know anything about the quality of that set. And there were no reviews posted for it. I would certainly want to know more.
What is the depth of the spyder?
What is a "crosscut sharpener/jointing file"?
Who made the file?
Who made the other stuff?

Square_peg said:
You're better off buying a jointer and spider off ebay.
. . .
Click to expand...

I have three jointer/raker guages I got off ebay that work for me.

Also consider you will need other files for the cutters, rakers and gullets.

Bob
 
Yes...I've been reading everything I can including most of everything on here and that's a lot of pages. So thank you for the advise and every little bit of knowledge you all share with me.

So here is the worst side of the saw, still needs more work as one can see but want to know if this one is too far gone.


The other side which isn't as bad. This saw was in a shed for a long time.
 
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Here is a six foot saw that was given to me
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Since it was "free" I thought I'd see what I could do with it. A person from the crosscutsawyer forum provided me with enough information from a similar saw they had to make a cardboard template of the plate. When I put the template on the plate it was obvious it wouldn't work. I trimmed the template down to have less belly and traced it on the plate.

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More work than I wanted to do. Then I thought I might I might shorten it by a foot. So I laid out the plate where the end would be cut off and redid the tooth line (still with a shallow belly). Again, more work than I wanted to do.

The saw is now a decoration in my wood shed. :)

Bob
 
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Glad to hear that I am not wasting my time.

So I got my first saw maintenance tool today that I found at a antique store. Think I did pretty good on this purchase.

 
marbat said:
Yes...I've been reading everything I can including most of everything on here and that's a lot of pages. So thank you for the advise and every little bit of knowledge you all share with me.

So here is the worst side of the saw, still needs more work as one can see but want to know if this one is too far gone.

The other side which isn't as bad. This saw was in a shed for a long time.
Click to expand...

The saw is not too far gone, but those deep pits on the teeth could cause the tooth to snap when setting. Saw looks like it could be a Simonds 520. If you've not filed one of these big saws, I'd suggest starting on a smaller one man saw as the blade will be more forgiving. A big bucking saw is a lot of work and it can get discouraging when things start going wrong after hours of prep time.
 
Well I just happen to have a 3 foot unsharpen saw to start with LOL. Just need more tools before I can start my training.
 
As a filer for my trail club, I am occasionally "gifted" with a saw when somebody cleans out their garage. Seldom are these in the best of shape, but I do try to put them back in circulation. This saw had serious pitting across the blade, but when I filed it up and hammered the raker swage and tooth set, there were no chips or breaks. In the jointing process you will flatten off the top teeth somewhat. This will allow you to pick the spot on the tooth tip with the most metal and file around the pit. It won't matter at all if one point is a bit lopsided, just so long as the final point has clean metal on the back side.

P1020318_zpspgoiwtdu.jpg
 
That's awesome thanks. My saw is not that far gone so once again happy to hear it's all good.
 
get yourself a copy of "SAWS THAT SING" compliments USDA Forest Service Technology & Development Program. do a google search you'll find the site. free publication .

buzz
 
It appears that your Cc saw is a drag saw. Or a saw that would have been used with some sort of mechanical power to operate it.

The main difference between it and a one or two man saw would be the grind or the trapper of the blade.

Good luck with it.

Tom
 
Well don't mean to sound ignorant or anything but how would it have been used with mechanical help?
This is how I got it.

 
you're correct. as little as i know about saws i'd say it is a bucking saw.
Champion tooth.
you might check logcabinlooms on youtube for a recipe for a treatment for the wood handle. he uses a mixture of Pine Tar and Boiled Linseed Oil.
i am in the process of doing the same thing for several axe and saw handles myself.
i used BLO for years but it is not very durable or waterproof.
luck,
buzz
 
i use automotive body sand paper. i haunt the local body shop and pick up their old sand paper.
if you have a work surface long enough for the saw blade, good. if not you can bolt two 2X4's together and make a vise to hold the blade.
sand length wise on the blade. the flat part of the blade is not critical to the saws purpose, it is simply there to hold the teeth. if it loses metal ok, it needs to be thinner than the set of the teeth anyway.
nice saw anvil. $1.00 :-).
take your time. there will plenty to do, filing, jointing and setting. it will be a good learning experience. i suggest you make the 2X4 or 2X6 saw vise. it will be real hamdy when you file amd set the teeth.
refer to the youtube video.

buzz
 
I have it almost sanded down, been mainly using a cheap four sided diamond sharpening block that I never used plus sandpaper, plus grill stones, plus W40 and so on.

As for the original handle it was done plus didn't help that I had put a torch to the wing nut trying to loosen it. First I broke a wing then ended up cutting the rest of it so need another wingnut.

Printed a few pages also today on how to go about with maintaining a saw, etc... It's slowly coming together.
 
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