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Rusty Old Bucking Saw Quetion or Questions
- Thread starter marbat
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The oldtimers used to call this "dodging the pits".
Alright, I made that up.
Seriously, thanks for sharing that. Gives me a new perspective on evalualing saw plates. :thumbup:
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Sorry if I confused your saw. This is the "drag" saw that I was referring to:
Tom
Tom
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Sorry if I confused your saw. This is the "drag" saw that I was referring to:
Tom
The perspective is distorted in that picture. I took some pictures of the saw three years ago and arbitrarily picked it to include in my post. Here is a different view. The D handle is removed, but it's shadow is there and the screw holes.
Square_peg
Gold Member
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As a filer for my trail club, I am occasionally "gifted" with a saw when somebody cleans out their garage. Seldom are these in the best of shape, but I do try to put them back in circulation. This saw had serious pitting across the blade, but when I filed it up and hammered the raker swage and tooth set, there were no chips or breaks. In the jointing process you will flatten off the top teeth somewhat. This will allow you to pick the spot on the tooth tip with the most metal and file around the pit. It won't matter at all if one point is a bit lopsided, just so long as the final point has clean metal on the back side.
You can also over set the tooth and then file off the pit before setting to the spider.
Well think I am just about done sanding the darn thing, looks way better then it did. Got me a Morin No 9 gauge heading my way, hope that it will do plus a spider No 5 LOL.
Need to build a saw vice now but sure wish I had a shop, working outside and showers/rain is in the forecast for a few days. Watch a few videos and now realize that I am far from being done, kind of wish I had one of you guys nearby to show me a few things as I go.
Pictures soon...
Need to build a saw vice now but sure wish I had a shop, working outside and showers/rain is in the forecast for a few days. Watch a few videos and now realize that I am far from being done, kind of wish I had one of you guys nearby to show me a few things as I go.
Pictures soon...
Square_peg
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What do you want to use it for? Setting the teeth? I think it would work fine for that. And the rolled face of a 3 pound sledge makes a fine anvil for setting saw teeth.
I just want to use it for bucking firewood when I go camping as I can't seem to rely on chainsaws lately. I do have a silky saw but we do have logs that can get as big as two ft round or bigger so those little saws just don't do, mainly cut stuff smaller then that though. Just gonna use it as a back up mainly but since this is new to me I also want to use it without disappointments.
So mainly for camping and used on fir trees, some alder as that is what seems more abundant around here.
Is my $1.00 anvil tool not good enough? Yes thought of using modified welding hammer for setting.
So mainly for camping and used on fir trees, some alder as that is what seems more abundant around here.
Is my $1.00 anvil tool not good enough? Yes thought of using modified welding hammer for setting.
This forum needs a place for saws. Last time I suggested it they moved the thread somewhere, the moderator did not seem too interested in saws despite them having steel blades last time I looked.
Good for you fixing up this rusty old thing. If nothing else you will get an education trying it. I have had good luck finding old saws cheaply with no pits on them, so for now I would not want a project like this. I am in my 50s and I use them to cut up firewood. I think I am too old to cut any two-foot logs. I have a few five-footers that are very stiff and work well as one-man saws if they are kept vertical. The longer ones need two men to work best. I have a little one-man with cutters and rakers and it is amazing for cutting green branches up, even ones a half-foot thick. Here is a clean 6-footer laying on my 100% wood saw-buck:
Good for you fixing up this rusty old thing. If nothing else you will get an education trying it. I have had good luck finding old saws cheaply with no pits on them, so for now I would not want a project like this. I am in my 50s and I use them to cut up firewood. I think I am too old to cut any two-foot logs. I have a few five-footers that are very stiff and work well as one-man saws if they are kept vertical. The longer ones need two men to work best. I have a little one-man with cutters and rakers and it is amazing for cutting green branches up, even ones a half-foot thick. Here is a clean 6-footer laying on my 100% wood saw-buck:
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There is a forum for that:
"crosscutsawyer.com
Dedicated to the Preservation and Traditional use of Crosscut Saws! . . "
http://www.crosscutsawyer.com/
Nice saw and sawbuck.:thumbup:
Bob
Square_peg
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Here is a clean 6-footer laying on my 100% wood saw-buck:
What Bob said - nice sawbuck. And you're smart to coat the endgrains like that. What did you use? Pruning sealer?
Now get some bricks under that thing so it doesn't rot from the ground up.
That the heck of a nice sawbuck.
Well promise some pictures so here it is after hours of making it look like a usable saw though now comes the filing process once I get everything I need too do that.
This is about as bad as it gets for rust spots on the rakers and teeth.
Well promise some pictures so here it is after hours of making it look like a usable saw though now comes the filing process once I get everything I need too do that.
This is about as bad as it gets for rust spots on the rakers and teeth.
A. Are you going to concours or user?
If user, I would stop polishing about now and start working on proper tooth shape and sharpness and you have a lot of teeth to work on.
If concours is your goal, maybe a mechanical assistance to get ALL the pitting out. But I like the Brut De Forge look and would probably try that for the whole blade and worry about the cutting area polish and sharpening next.
Good luck and lets us know how it cuts. I MIGHT pick up one myself, but SWMBO insists on a chain saw soon.
Larry
Tinkerer
If user, I would stop polishing about now and start working on proper tooth shape and sharpness and you have a lot of teeth to work on.
If concours is your goal, maybe a mechanical assistance to get ALL the pitting out. But I like the Brut De Forge look and would probably try that for the whole blade and worry about the cutting area polish and sharpening next.
Good luck and lets us know how it cuts. I MIGHT pick up one myself, but SWMBO insists on a chain saw soon.
Larry
Tinkerer
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- Mar 10, 2011
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- 2,661
Agree, priority on the teeth and rakers if you have the files.
I would encourage you to build a saw vice. I'd like to build one myself. This is what I came up with. It's a start, with no money or building involved.
Of course tilting it might not be so handy..
Bob
