S-30v

DennisStrickland said:
myself being of the school that the perfect knife steel is impossible to evermake, i consider s30 to be a solid performer.the wide usage latitude between the jobs asked of cutlery simply means different alloys for different applications. a man opening osyster shells all day as opposed to a butcher cutting beef from bones will simply require different alloys. certainly an alaskan guide will require a performer different than a worker on a banana plantation in honduras.about the best we can say of any alloy is that the alloy does an excellent job in the confines of its job description.persons working in warehouses, going fishing, & hunting -- hiking are best served by carrying blades suited to each task.
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The brilliance of this resounds. The more I learn from knives (through use, sharpening, abusing, damaging, repairing, etc.) the more I come to realize these words to be true.

I keep looking for a folding knife with mystical properties and abilities, but I think the truth is that we are all better served with the right horse for the right course...(steel, blade dimensions/geometry, handle....knife)
 
I've never been all that impressed with its edgeholding abilities. And it can be a bear to resharpen once its dull.
 
vwb563 said:
I've never been all that impressed with its edgeholding abilities. And it can be a bear to resharpen once its dull.
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My Gerber Freeman in s30v managed to process 3 deer (field dressing, skinning, quartering and some boning) before it needed to be touched up. It did roll a couple tiny spots near the tip on the 4th deer when I hit bone just a little too hard. You are right, however, about it being tough to resharpen when dull. The key is to not let it get dull.
 
S30V is my steel of choice these days simply because the EDCs that I use most of the time (Sebenza, Umnumzaan, and Spyderco Sage II). Of the three knives I have been using hard the last 6 months only the Spyderco Sage II has showed any chipping. The Chris Reeves have survived though pretty robust use.
 
S30V (as in my BM Mini-Rukus) is a superb steel IMHO. It is easier to sharpen than D2, comparable with VG-10 when it comes to sharpening, takes an extremely fine edge and holds it for a long time. However, a knife is a cutting tool... use the right tool for the job: an ax for splitting, a scraper for scraping.
 
Is there a difference between S30V and CPM S30V, or are they the same thing??

I have a Bradley Mayhem in S30V, (which I have used quite a bit and have reprofiled to a convex edge), ...but my new Spyderco Military says CPM S30V. -Just wondering if I should expect them to perform any differently?

The Bradley was a pain in the bunns to reprofile, but sure holds its edge well. -I did manage to chip off the very tippy tip of the blade, but it was so small that a little work on the stone fixed it so you can't even tell anymore.
 
Alberta Ed said:
S30V (as in my BM Mini-Rukus) is a superb steel IMHO. It is easier to sharpen than D2, comparable with VG-10 when it comes to sharpening, takes an extremely fine edge and holds it for a long time. However, a knife is a cutting tool... use the right tool for the job: an ax for splitting, a scraper for scraping.
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Absolutely 100% agree. My point of contention, however, arises when makers market their knife as a "survival" or "combat" knife, implying that you're out someplace WITHOUT access to all the right tools, and then complain (when their idiotic choice of blade material doesn't perform well) that people are being abusive. Apparently, they feel that slicing pepperoni outdoors qualifies as "survival." If your knife can't stand up to batoning, splitting, planing, etc., then call it a hunting knife or skinner.
 
Firstly I predominantly carry Spyderco's, secondly I feel CPM S30V is a poor choice of steel when being used on work knifes. Poor edge retention and numerous chipping problems have been the norm for me. My Chinook III, Mini Manix and Native have all had the same problems.

Fwiw I am fairly hard on my work knives and do ask a lot of them sometimes. For general work EDC I prefer CPM D2, hard work CPM M4 and for abusive work CPM 440V or CPM S90V.

IMO S30V makes for an "okay" light to general use EDC steel, but for that sort of use I'd rather have VG10 any day.

Bo.
 
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