?'s on rehandling a thicker mora knife

O

OzarkCreekWalker

Joined
Jul 25, 2011
Messages
521
Specifically it is a Helle Viking blade, which is longer and thicker than a mora. Suggestions on the best ways to get a new handle on it would be appreciated. The two ways i know how to do are: drilling a hole in a piece of wood and fitting the blade. and pounding the knife in the center of green wood. These become more difficult because this knife is quite a bit thicker than a mora. Knowing that there are many bushcrafters here, I'm hoping that someone knows a clever method that i have not thought of. Also, when giving the knife a wooden handle, does the direction of the grain matter? For example, should the blade be parallel with the grain or perpendicular to it? thanks
 
Last edited:
Well, there's always burning the tang into the handle. Drill an undersized hole then press the heated tang into the wood like so.

[video=youtube;Bt3RsNZeT44]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bt3RsNZeT44[/video]
 
I also purchased a Helle Viking blade in carbon
I got some wood from the supplier and the blocks are not parallel with the grain, so I guess that is okay.
I do not have a drill press, so my drilling will be a little rougher

I have been reading alot of tutorials
There are lot out there
I also purchased some sheaths, so I will need to carve the handle to fit the sheath

Let us know what is happening

Good luck
 
Neeman - What are some good sheaths you've found? I was thinking an Enzo sheath (for the Trapper, i believe) would do. And, I thought about it more and I decided that I am going to take my time on this project and make sure I do it as well as I can, no need to rush it. I'll try to get the right materials and make them fit well. I'm going to do it in the way it is done in the video a few posts up, just not as elaborately. This method is good for me because I don't have any drill bits the length of the viking's tang, so dividing the pieces up and glueing them together will be most effective. I love these projects, it is much more satisfying than just buying a complete knife off the shelf. Thanks
 
I got the 'enzo trapper' sheath, although it not the same sheath as from Enzo
And two scandi sheaths

both from Thompson

I too will take my time
 
What is wrong with the Viking handle?
Not to be pesky but just because I was about to buy one as a Christmas present.
Best Regards
 
Joe Real said:
What is wrong with the Viking handle?
Not to be pesky but just because I was about to buy one as a Christmas present.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Nothing is wrong is with the viking's handle but i bought only the blade because it is very inexpensive. My apologies, I should not have said "rehandling"
 
I've put a handle on a Mora laminate blade and on a Helle Viking blade and I am working on another Viking blade. I am using stacked leather handles.

IMGP0546.jpgkith2.jpg

The first Viking, in the middle did not turn out very well. The next one will be better.

For a wood handle, fit a bloster or ferrel or washer, cut the wood to length leaving room for a pommel if you are going to have one or a washer if not. Drill a hole the same diameter as the thickness of the tang through the center of the wood. Clip one end off of a coping saw blade and cut the correct size and shape hole for your tang. A little loose is OK. some pommels come threaded. If you are going to use one of these you will need to round the end of your tang to the correct diameter and cut the correct size threads. I peened my tangs onto my pommels using a ball peen hammer. I use an 1 hour epoxy for gluing my handles.
Dry fit everything. Clean the tang and the hole. Mix your epoxy carefully. Take an extra minute to make certain that it is mixed thoroughly. You can mix some sawdust with your epoxy if you want. Glue it up making sure everything is aligned. Tighten your pommel or washer on the end of the tang making sure everything stays aligned. Good Luck.
 
IMG_2326.JPG


IMG_2323.JPG


IMG_3042.JPG


IMG_3046.JPG


IMG_3053.JPG


IMG_3057.JPG


IMG_5240.jpg


IMG_3059.JPG


consider making a vice like this,protect the blade with masking tape when working,and take your time,and have fun

IMG_2940.JPG
 
Ive found if you rough up the tang with a file or hacksaw and make some shallow grooves or divots (with a drill) in the tang, it helps the epoxy stick much better. Ive had a few handles that broke in hard use (batoning :o), but the glued portion still stayed strongly attached to the wood.
 
Bo T and Rinos make me feel like a noob. :D
I'm ready to glue the handle together, it is just a matter of obtaining the epoxy. I didn't do anything to elaborate, but i used three different woods and a white synthetic material in between them. If it turns out ok then maybe i'll post pictures. If not i'll keep trying until i get it right.
 
shockjockey24 said:
Ive found if you rough up the tang with a file or hacksaw and make some shallow grooves or divots (with a drill) in the tang, it helps the epoxy stick much better. Ive had a few handles that broke in hard use (batoning :o), but the glued portion still stayed strongly attached to the wood.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip! I'll have to give it a try
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top