S & W Model 10 load

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g123

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Oct 25, 2009
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Hey Guys,

I have an S & W Model 10. What would be the best dog/bear load I could use through this revolver when I go backpacking?

Thanks,

Geoff
 
You'll probably get some input from more experienced people. I would use a heavy hot solid for bear personally. If you don't hand load then I would look at some of Buffalo Bore's ammo. With a dog you could get away with just about anything, any self defense load would be fine. That heavy solid would probably over penetrate pretty bad though. I shot a wild dog with a 124gr JHP in the shoulder and it was a literal one shot kill. I have shot several hogs with heavy hollow points and switched to heavy solids. I don't hog hunt with a .357 anymore though if that says anything. Hope this helps. I have carried a .357 and generally carry 1 wad cutter in the first cylinder and 5 hot 157gr hollow pts in the other cylinder. It has served me well for some time. That being said I recently switched to 10mm for an outdoors gun except when I carry a rifle.

My .02

Hope my ramblings offer some help
 
first - model 10 in .38 spl, not the Victory model/model 10 rechambered from .38 S&W? (I learned the difference the hard way)
second - factory or handload ammunition?
for bear, I'd suggest something like the Barnes X solids.
dog doesn't need anything that extreme - 158 gr LSWC's or even 125gr JHP's would be sufficient. I would not recommend using +P in a model 10 revolver.
of course, if all you want is to deter them, shot shells might be good enough. (I know, I'm going to get blasted for that piece of advice)
 
Thanks for the input, I am not sure if a Model 10 can handle really hot loads. What do you guys think?

Geoff
 
use FMJ's for bear. dont use hollow points. their skin is uber thick along with hair, fatty tissue, and mass muscle. you do not want that bullet breaking into pieces before it hits the death area... just my opinion. a bear and a hog are 2 totally different creatures. what might be over kill on a hog might be underkill on avg for a bear.
 
158gr lead round nose and always hike with a buddy.

If bear attacks, shoot buddy in the knee and run................. :)

If you gun is new enough that it actually is stamped "Mod. 10" then S&W says it is safe for +p loads, but I'm not really sure in .38 sp if the +p vs regular against a bear is gonna matter. Neither is the "best", but I'd agree to stick to FMJ for the extra penetration.

And good climbing shoes.......
 
158grain +p JSP in 38 - or handload a 125gr Barnes Copper load. If its just for people dogs, I love DPX 110 +p
 
OK, here is my contribution for what it's worth. The Speer Manual #8 has some great reference material in it with regard to loading the .38 Special to what I would call a "normal" level - what we see now as +P is actually milder than what was loaded as standard pressure 30+ years ago.

I have actually chrono'd "standard" velocity Remington 158gr RNL (old green box with red & white lettering) from the 60's at 1006 fps out of a 4" Model 10, round butt/pencil barrel. Winchester from the same era ran about the same or a bit less for velocity.

I routinely load 8gr of SR4756 and a hard cast 158/160 gr SWC for about 1100 fps +/- our of any of my 4" K-frames (10/13/19/64/65/66) with no ill effect at all after multiple thousands of rounds. My 4" Model 66 has been used routinely with this load (or equivalent) since I bought it in 1983 and has logged about 28K rounds with minimal work (end-shake bearings and 1 new firing pin) the majority of them the 8 gr SR4756/158 SWC.

I have to shake my head and chuckle when I see posts from guys who want to know "is it safe to fire +P in my Model 27 or Highway Patrollman or Colt Python, etc" - what the factories are putting out now as "+P" is basically what everyone was shooting in the 40's-70's with no additional thought or angst, and you're shooting a .357!!!

Having said all of that, the .38 Special wouldn't be my first choice for a black bear (I've taken most of mine with slugs or 00B out of a short shotgun) but if i could carry my own handloads it would sure do if forced...
 
Bear Claw Chris Lappe said:
And good climbing shoes.......
Click to expand...

ill second that.

i would have a back up weapon as well. personnaly i wouldnt use a handgun for bear. unless you are so bored with shotties and rifles that the handgun will bring the life back into hunting. use the handgun as back up. use a .35 remmy or up or 12ga 00b to slugs. choose yer poison and be ready to climb
 
Remington 158gr SWCLHP. AKA the FBI load...AKA the metro load.

make sure its the Rem brand...it has the softest lead
 
bill_G said:
Remington 158gr SWCLHP. AKA the FBI load...AKA the metro load.

make sure its the Rem brand...it has the softest lead
Click to expand...

Great for shooting soft tissue, not so great for penetration - if you ever have to use it let me know how it works for you and whether practical application changes your mind...;)
 
I'm picking up a model 10 soon, turned 21 a few weeks ago and I've been going handgun crazy. Solidly built pistol for the money, that's for sure.
 
Hey Guys thanks for the response.

Dan I know you have a lot op practical experience, so thanks for your input.

What do you think of S & W 686 357 or 45 ACP for this situation, does it make a lot of difference? What load would you use?

Thanks,

Geoff
 
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.45 ACP is going to have similar issues as the .38spl, as it's a fairly slow moving round - more thump when it gets there, but not known for deep penetration.
686 w/4" bbl shooting solids is a better choice than the .38spl, with the added bonus of it being stainless. heavier piece than the model 10, as well. (10 is a K frame, 686 is an L frame)
 
Your S&W Model 10 is a very fine revolver. While I am not an expert on the Model 10, I have a fair amount of knowlege of that particular revolver. The Model 10 was actually manufactured in 3 different calibers. They were made in .38 S&W (many british revolvers), .38 Special (many american revolvers) and a small run of them was manufactured to accept the .357 Magnum cartridge. I would not advise using the hottest modern factory loads in any of them. As for your question regarding ammo for bears/dogs there is no "perfect" round. A dog is a fairly thin skinned animal without a large bone structure. What works well on man would work well on a dog. I would suggest a 125 gr. JHP as a fast expanding round that still maintains good penetration. For bears, it is a different ball game. I also frequently carry a .357 in bear country (black) and I am aware that it is a marginal round at best for bears, but still better than nothing. A solid bullet of 158 gr. would be my choice for bears.
 
I would step up to the 686 if you can, .357 gives you a lot more power and the 686 will last longer with hot loads. For bear go with a hot heavy solid round. For dog I think you have a lot more room to go lighter if need be.

The 10 is a great revolver but is not bear medicine in my mind no matter how it's loaded. Only a few of the uber-revolvers would fit into that category for me and even then it's best to be educated and avoid them best you can.
 
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