S110V and WorkSharp

Hi everyone, thanks for your input!

I want to provide some feedback to my original post.

Based on what Jason B and others said, I went back to the X65 belt (coarse) and worked side A exclusively until I raized a palpable burr along the whole edge. Even though my belts are not new, it took much, much, much longer than anticipated-- so long in fact, that I was a bit worried I was screwing something up, but decided to push forward to a burr anyway. I used slow-to-medium speed the whole time.

I then repeated the process with side B (yes, I know, Sharpening-101) :)

Burr raised on side B, I jumped straight to X4 (fine) for about 10 additional passes on side B, just for a little polish.

Returning to side A with the X4, it only took a couple of passes (something like 4) to knock down the burr--I was expecting more, but stopped anyway. I then switched to the 6000 belt (perhaps not necessairy), just for 2-4 light passes each side.

I am pleased with the results. Hair comes flying off my arms and legs; printer paper is barely an afterthought. The bevel is not perfect, but it is acceptably even for my taste, so no complaints or regrets. The tip, chipped from a previous fall, came out pretty decently too.

So, this is where I am on my personal s110v Worksharp learning curve (echoing the advice of Jason B and others):

1. Raise the initial burr, applying a good dose of patience if needed.
2. Jump straight to the final polishing and (admittedly based on limited s110v experience) don't over do it at this point.

Thanks!
 
I put a bit of diamond spray I had on the polish belt... made a definite improvement to the S110V edge. Might be a route to consider.

One saved round: cbwx34, can you post a link to the diamond spray you're referring to? I might want to give it a try at some point.

Thanks!
 
Great to hear of your results!

But you might want to start with a more abrasive belt next time. The X65 is pretty decent, but it's really not all that abrasive for a very dull knife. The P120 is a better starting point. If it were me, I'd evaluate the level of dullness, and then start with probably my X200 Norax belt. I also have a 60 grit ceramic belt, but I'm guessing your blade wasn't *that* dull, or that tough to require such a beastly starting belt. The X200 would make things quite a bit faster.

Also, after you've gained some experience with the WSKO, don't be afraid to use faster speeds. It makes things work faster. :P I routinely use speed 9 or 10 (number of clicks up from the slowest speed) and occasionally go to the highest, or a few clicks down. The main reason I like to run the WSKO at slower speeds while doing initial grinding is simply the sound: It's really loud (to my ears) at full speed. Maybe I should wear ear plugs. But that messes with my sense of "this is a fun activity" and turns it more into something else.

Brian.
 
One saved round: cbwx34, can you post a link to the diamond spray you're referring to? I might want to give it a try at some point.

Thanks!

It's Handamerican 1.0 micron diamond spray (don't have a link, got it a long time ago, but an internet search showed it's still around).
 
I recently got a BGA... and a first I ran it on low speed and it takes a REALLY long time on even moderately decent steel.. Good for practice though and getting the hang of things. But to get any results in setting a new edge, better to be at least mid speed.

I did use max speed - I was careful but man, that can eat kitchen knives if you are not paying attention! Luckily I was being super careful :)
 
I honestly wouldn't bother, as the edge will revert to a "toothy" edge after a bit of cutting.

I haven't had as much issues putting a stupid sharp edge on even S125V, but that's on my 1x42 Kalamazoo using Trizact belts and finishing off with a polishing belt loaded with Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish.

The main issue is likely the abrasive quality, as Trizact belts stay sharp for quite a while, and the mag polish just seems to cut even the highest carbide steels.
 
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