S30v Leek

waynorth

waynorth

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Nov 19, 2005
Messages
32,906
I just bought a pair of new s30v Leeks, and while nice in appearance, I find they do not open smoothly or reliably like my other 3 Leeks. I have not tested them in terms of sharpening or cutting because I don't want to blow my chance to have them replaced if necessary. I've only oiled them and tried the AO mechanism numerous times to break them in. I'll still get an incomplete opening, whereas my silver, black, and rainbow Leeks never fail. Recommendations anyone? Thomas, are you watching?:confused:
 
Mine is slower to open as well. I am very happy with all other aspects of the knife though.

JO
 
I've noticed on mine that it makes a big difference in how you use the flipper.
If I simply push the flipper straight in, it won't always open far enough for the spring to grab it.
However, if I put my finger just in front of the flipper and pull back while maintaining a little pressure, it always springs open nicely.
I would sure llike to see a stainless handles framelock one with S30V, though.
 
I know what you mean. I don't have too much trouble with the flipper, but I like to use the thumb stud, and whereas my other Leeks will leap open if I just start to push forward this s30v balks, and sometimes will not jump to the lock. Maybe the contact surfaces are just not polished enough. Is there anyone else out there with a similar experience??
 
I wonder if it's the friction of the torsion bar on the G10 vs. it usually rubbing on metal?
 
I guess I got lucky. My S30V Leek is sleek! A touch on the thumbstuds and it snaps open. The flipper works perfectly, too -- no hesitation.
 
I thought for sure you were referring to the flipper. With mine, using the thumbstud results in a loud, solid thwack, and it's far easier to use the thumbstud than on the stainless model I had.
Could the pivot possibly be a little too tight?
BTW, I put some tuff glide on the pivot when I got it a couple of days ago, and just took it out again and tried it a few times, and the flipper is working better now.
 
I see I wasn't clear on the method I was talking about. Sorry about that. It's generally O.K. with the flipper, if slightly stiff, but very hard to get a clean opening with the stud. I'm in search of the right tool to ease off the pivot. Will report back:o
 
Maybe I've learned something on these blade forums! Piecing together comments on my Leek, and other solutions I've read in other threads, I decided to fix this knife, and it turned out dead easy. I went out and bought the appropriate Torx driver and backed out the pivot 1/4 turn, and bingo! the knife worked as it should! But with too much blade play, so I tightened it 1/8 turn and it's still good! The thumb stud was hard to reach though, and slippery, so I got some fine emery cloth, wrapped it around a fat dowel, and (gulp) started grinding away at the g-10 handle on my NEW LEEK! Well the sky didn't fall, and the knife works great with it's new thumb notch, and since form follows function, I think it looks great too. Hmmm, maybe I can get a job designing knives?! All that steel, all those machines, my name on the box! Huh where was I- -Oh Yeah, Thanks for the comments guys in this and other threads;)
 
waynorth, sorry about being late on this thread. Sounds like you got your Leek dialed in. On occasion, I hear of one or two that leave the factory a little "tight".
Maybe you can post a pic of your "personalized" Leek?

It sounds like you're happy, which I am glad to hear.

Thomas
Kershaw Knives
 
My G10 Leek is also slower and weaker than the regular framelock 440A version. I guess I'll try the pivot screw adjustment.
 
One of the fun parts of working with these little slicing machines is tuning them up -- sharpening, lubricating, trimming the handle slab edges, buffing the sharp corners off the back of the blade, adjusting pivot and lock tension.

Taking responsibility for your knife's operation is what makes it YOUR knife.
 
Here are some pics of my "customized Leek". First the knife open, then a before and after of the stud area (did I mention I bought two? Gotta have a safe Queen!)
I appreciate everyone's comments and advice:thumbup:
 

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waynorth,

I have to ask how do you even open the leek with your thumb?

I have this problem with assisted opening knives when I use my thumb the blade opens so fast and my thumb is still pushing and it ends up on the cutting edge of the blade and I get cut. For this reason I can only use the flipper.

Anyone else have this problem or am I just dumb ? :D
 
Professional looking job. :thumbup: Hell, it looks factory issued that way, or atleast maybe it should be factory issued that way. Thanks for the pics!
 
Physics said:
Professional looking job. :thumbup: Hell, it looks factory issued that way, or atleast maybe it should be factory issued that way. Thanks for the pics!
Click to expand...

I agree. I like the recessed thumb area :) Nice work man.
 
Joe D. someone pointed out to me, that if you push straight forward instead of out, you stay with the blade! In other words push toward where the point will be when it's open, right in line with the length of the knife. Your thumb will hit the bump on the handle next to the pivot instead of the edge.
It's not exactly intuitive, because you want to push the blade left instead. I think I read it on that wacko "bladeforums.com" site! Heh Heh:D
 
EB, you got me thinking now, how I can take the the "burrs" off this knife, and make it totally pocketable. Years ago when I was combat shooting, a gunsmith did up a .45 for me, and I loved that pistol! No sharp edges to snag, or shred skin. Why can't a knife be the same? This will be fun!
 
Take a ceramic rod and buff the knife with it. Very light pressure and you won't even notice it by eye, but your hand won't snag on the laser-cut 'wire edges'. Don't do it to the flats of the blade, though :)

It's like polishing an already sharpened edge. You want to change the surface, not the basic geometry.
 
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