S30V or D2???

In terms of stain/corrosion resistance, I believe S30V has the advantage over D2. Everything else, in my very humble opinion and experience, is sort of a toss up as we need to factor in use, heat-treat, edge geometry, etc.

My experience with D2 has been awesome. Great edge retention, strops to a very fine edge, and holds it well. Care and feeding is simple and only requires keeping the blade clean and adding the occasional drop of gun oil on the blade after use.

The more knives I own, the less I seem to care about what the blade steel is and more so about the maker's reputation to heat treat it properly.

D2 requires some care as it is a semi-stainless. S30V is a true stainless. Both are great steels.
 
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If you're planning on running a zero scandi I wouldn't pick either of those for a scandi grind...It'll be a pinta sharpening the entire flats on a scandi grind... Not to mention neither will likely hold up well with that acute of an angle..

If you plan on micro beveling, then I'd go with s30v as I prefer it over d2. However at some point you'll still have grind the flats as your edge thickens from just sharpening the micro bevel.
 
I wouldn't pay extra for S30V personally. D2 is sometimes called semi-stainless, though I have had spotting with two D2 knives - but they were both Italian Knives...& from two different Italian knife companies. I've had many other American made knives in D2, subject to the exact same environments, & absolutely zero corrosion related issues....and really, I know I wouldn't be able to tell a difference in either cutting performance, edge holding, or sharpening...so I'd save the $20 & go D2. And I'm talking regular D2, not even CPM D2 which the knife you're talking about may be? Besides, CPM S30V isn't all that great a stainless....if it were CPM154 or 20CV or 90V, etc., then I'd go for it....but it's 30V, so I wouldn't. And to be clear, I'm not saying S30V isn't the higher testing steel for most applications, I'm just saying I wouldn't pay another $20 for it, because it isn't $20 better & I know I likely wouldn't ever be able to tell a working difference, & neither one would rust on me as long as it's not that funny Italian D2!
 
I have a couple of Birk 75s: a Scandinavian grind D2 and flat grind S30V. They are both pretty nice. The fit/finish are good but not quite as good as my Taichung Spydercos, Benchmades, and Zero Tolerances. The actions on both are super smooth and lockups are solid. I can't offer a comparison on the blade steels because I've only owned them for a short time. Others are much more knowledgeable than me in that area anyway. I can say it's worth it pick one of them up though. Keep an eye on the Exchange here. I got both of these there for good prices.

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That's a nice pair photo man. Is the fit and finish not as nice as Spyderco, ZT, and Benchmade? How so? Personally I never like the fit and finish on some ZT. My experience with Spyderco has only been a couple of PM2 and an Endura and all are awesome.

I don't see your post in the exchange. Been going page after page.
 
There is a reason why Sebenzas and other high end knives come in S30V and not D2...just saying. S30V is the nicer steel.

What then is the reason some other high end folders like Medford and Brous use d2 and not s30v?
(Many of which cost more then Sebenzas)

By your own logic, Does that make d2 the better Steel then???

My point being again, heat treating is always crucial for any knife steel, but both make great options for knife blades.
 
That's a nice pair photo man. Is the fit and finish not as nice as Spyderco, ZT, and Benchmade? How so? Personally I never like the fit and finish on some ZT. My experience with Spyderco has only been a couple of PM2 and an Endura and all are awesome.

I don't see your post in the exchange. Been going page after page.

The liners/scales/bolsters just don't sit as flush together as say my Spyderco Vollotton. But it's really pretty trivial. The actions are smooth and lockup seems good. That's what really matters.

Mine are not for sale if that's what you mean. I just bought them on the Exchange here for good prices.
 
The liners/scales/bolsters just don't sit as flush together as say my Spyderco Vollotton. But it's really pretty trivial. The actions are smooth and lockup seems good. That's what really matters.

Mine are not for sale if that's what you mean. I just bought them on the Exchange here for good prices.

Oops! Pardon me. I misunderstood and thought you are selling yours. Does the Birk come with bolsters? Don't see any of that lying around other than yours.
 
Given the same knife in a choice of D2 or S30V, I would go with the S30V.

But if I like a knife design and it only comes in D2 I would not pass on buying it.
 
Oops! Pardon me. I misunderstood and thought you are selling yours. Does the Birk come with bolsters? Don't see any of that lying around other than yours.

After reading my post I can see where you might have thought I had them for sale. I don't have plans to release them back into the wild any time soon though. Both were available on the Exchange within the past few weeks for $75 each lightly used from different sellers. Watch there for good buys and you might be able to snag one of each for just a little more than the price of one new.
I think the bolsters were a generation 1 type of thing and no longer available.
 
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Thanks so much guys. I think I have already decided on S30V. Reason being I am residing in tropical Singapore and relative humidity can be extremely high throughout the year, and temperature in the range of 35 to 40 degrees Celsius. Sweat is inevitable and I think full stainless would make more sense.
 
My impression is that S30V will take a finer edge than D2 (not as toothy as D2). But in general, I feel they are both about equal overall and if given the choice, I would choose D2. Both can chip if abused.
 
If you had a choice the temper should be 400 F for S30V as it has better corrosion resistance than the 900F temper.
 
I don't know why so many people think D2 is tougher than S30V. If not properly heat treated, S30V can be chippy, which shows a lack of toughness. But properly treated, it is tougher than D2 by a fair margin.

In addition, S30V has superior wear resistance, is finer grained and has much better stain resistance. The only area where D2 has an advantage over S30V is in ease of manufacturing. S30V can also support more acute blade/edge geometry, which improves edge retention, cutting performance and ease of sharpening.

D2 is an excellent knife steel. S30V is better.

I think the main issue with S30V for me is that the vast majority of companies seem to have a good amount of trouble making the heat treat consistent, so you often end up with a blade that IS more prone to chipping that D2. In my experience, about 1/10 knives I have seen with S30V have seemed to have the right amount of toughness in them for what S30V claims in its specs. The rest of them were prone to have immediate issues with micro-chipping and eventually lager chips in the blade.

I like both steels, but I honestly won't get S30V on a knife at all if I can help it, just because of all of the issues I have had with it in the past on my own knives, and in the knives of the people I know, as I am the only one in my area that has a full sharpening system, and get stuck sharpening and fixing their blades when they start to chip out.

For my money, I would go with D2, not because it is a better steel, but because it is morel likely to be the steel it is supposed to be from more manufacturers.

I have also found that D2 is much easier to sharpen in my experience (and gets to a finer polished edge more easily because it does not have Vanadium in it), though neither D2 nor S30V are particularly hard to sharpen at all when you have the right tools for the job.

S30V has small carbides and D2 has large carbides . Therefore S30V will be sharper [ keener edge ]. Part of D2 wear is the breaking out of large chunks of carbides making D2 'seem to ' wear better.

And for the record, generally D2 is not going to have larger carbides than S30V, but the carbides are more likely to be somewhat unevenly distributed in the steel. Vanadium, which produces very large and hard carbides, is very abundant in S30V compared to D2, but the carbides are more evenly distributed because of the CPM process used to make S30V.
If you compare CPM-D2 and S30V, you will find that the carbides in CPM-D2 are notably finer overall, and the steel takes a very keen edge. The difference we see in normal D2 and S30V is the difference between ingot and powdered steels for the most part.

There is a reason why Sebenzas and other high end knives come in S30V and not D2...just saying. S30V is the nicer steel.

The main reason that S30V was developed was largely to reproduce the performance of a steel like D2 in something that was highly stain resistant. The same can be said of CTS-XHP as well, which was originally described as a stainless D2.

Chris Reeve himself has said on many occasions that one of his main concerns in the steel on his blades is how corrosion-resistant they are, as he wants to make his knives available for as many people as possible, in as many different types of environments as possible.
And I have seen several higher-end knives in D2, including a large number of custom knives.
 
Thanks so much guys. I think I have already decided on S30V. Reason being I am residing in tropical Singapore and relative humidity can be extremely high throughout the year, and temperature in the range of 35 to 40 degrees Celsius. Sweat is inevitable and I think full stainless would make more sense.

In your situation, S30V is probably the right choice, at least for the stain-resistance if nothing else. I think the company that does the heat-treat for their S30V does a good job from what I have seen here on the forums, and having handled one of these knives myself as well.

Good luck with it man and I hope you love it!
 
I don't want to rain on your parade but both D2 and S30V are bad choice for scandi zero edge type of blade... carbon steel or low carbide alloy steel like O1, AEB-L are far better option.
 
I don't want to rain on your parade but both D2 and S30V are bad choice for scandi zero edge type of blade... carbon steel or low carbide alloy steel like O1, AEB-L are far better option.

I know that, and all my Scandi grinds are in O1, A2 or high carbon steel. The Birk is more of a backup to my backup knife so I would prefer stainless as it is going to sit in my pocket daily facing high humidity, body heat and sweat.
 
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