S30V? Really? – For the steel junky.

ToyKnife

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- I’m not trying to direct this towards one individual maker/company. I just want to gather information about the steel itself; uses, experiences, facts, opinions, etc.-

So I have been reading the thread on the test of the Chris Reeve’s Green Beret and various other threads and have come to some questions about the steel. It seems that the steel itself is fairly good stuff or at least it is suppose to be. Maybe hype maybe not. I don’t know. I’m pretty new to the upper end steels and the use of various knife steel in general.

The only real experience of this steel is with the Sebenza. First time out I cut a large handful of networking cable and the edge rolled right off. This was a little surprising considering all the good information I read, received, etc. about this new super stainless steel. I didn’t think that thin, relatively soft wire would even make a mark but it did. Keep in mind that cutting some wire is just about the hardest job I put my folders through. I only cut the wire because I didn’t have any other tools to do the job and it needed to be done. I generally use a specific tool for the intended job.

I was coming from a Benchmade with ATS-34. I have being working on sharpening the rolled edge off but this is not easy with a little Sharpmaker.

On with the questions:

What is the ideal hardness for the S30V? I see that the Green Beret is 55-57 RC, Sebenza 58-59 RC, Benchmade 58-60 RC, Strider and Spyderco doesn’t state their RC. Is softer better? What range of RC is the best? Does the difference between Benchmade and the Sebenza make a big difference in use? It would be hard to believe that I would but I maybe wrong.

Does anyone else have an experience such as mine? Frankly, I love the quality and simplicity of the design and build of the Sebenza. So don’t take this the wrong way the knife is great. I’m more focused on the S30V blade, not just from one maker. It was quite a disappointment for my first time using the S30V steel.:( I was under the impression that one could use their super deluxe steel knife for most any cutting tasks on a daily basis. I’m not talking about prying doors open or cutting bolt heads off but it should be able to take on some wire, remove a staple, food, bone, wood (hard or soft), etc. relatively easy tasks. Is this too much to ask? As a side note; it would be nice to know that your knife (folder or not) could take on some harder tasks.

There has to be some good about the S30V. It can’t be all hype and marketing. Why should I go with S30V over say a “lesser” steel such as ATS-34/154-CM? Or should I shoot for steel that I can only get from a custom make such as S90V (minus Spyderco and I’m a lefty) or if we go into the non-stainless ones such as M4, now M2 and 3V. Just for an example. Oh and INFI doesn’t count for the custom because I can’t get it in a folder.

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Dog of War stated that the S30V may have been "promoted for knife applications for which it isn't very well-suited." This brings up a question. Simple to ask but it may turn out to be hard to answer. What are the limitations of a knife when it comes to slicing? Folder? Fixed? Cutting or slicing is what a knife is used for, right? When do you search for a tool that has been designed for the job and not simply pull your knife from your pocket/belt? Do you cut the phone cord, v-belt off a motor, etc.? Yes, you can search the house/building for wire cutters to do those jobs. But then ask yourself why do you carry a knife if you can find a tool to do the job? Just about the only place you can’t find a tool to do the jobs is in remote locations, such as deep in the Amazon, frozen wilderness of the Artic, etc. Think of it has how does one define hard-use?
 
Some cable has a metal shield inside the outside plastic wrap.
Some new knives preform better after the first sharpening....a rollededge is normal
on some knives.
I used four S30V knives Buck knives (heat treated by Paul Bos)this past hunting season
Alaskan Guide 110,Buck/Mayo 151,Buck/ Hartsook,and an 819...cut briskets on hogs and deer with all ...no pelvic bone...use an axe after field dressing for this touched the 151 up after the hogs they had dryed mud on them.
Specs on Paul Bos heat treatment is available on Buck Knives web page.
 
There has to be some good about the S30V. It can’t be all hype and marketing....
S30V is more abrasion resistant than most steels commonly used in production knives, which means it tends to hold an edge better particularly when cutting abrasive materials.

But like any steel, there are trade-offs: S30V isn't a good choice if you need extreme toughness, or need a blade that will take a very fine, acute edge.

I would say that S30V isn't all hype, but has been used and promoted for knife applications for which it isn't very well-suited.
 
Use a wire cutter to cut wire. Were knives meant to cut wire?

No, I didn't have one at the time. I think I stated this in the original post but I do use the specific tool for the intended job.
 
S30V is more abrasion resistant than most steels commonly used in production knives, which means it tends to hold an edge better particularly when cutting abrasive materials.

But like any steel, there are trade-offs: S30V isn't a good choice if you need extreme toughness, or need a blade that will take a very fine, acute edge.

I would say that S30V isn't all hype, but has been used and promoted for knife applications for which it isn't very well-suited.

True. The bolded reminds me to state a comment and question in the original post.
 
I've cut copper wire with my Sebenza without problems. I don't know what edge you had or how you cut wire .I think 58-59 is the best hardness for most things.
 
I've had nothing but bad luck with S30V knives in edge retention and sharpening. I hate the stuff. Others have had good luck - go figure.

Getting your blade re-hardened to 60 - 61 HRC will help a lot. My Sebenza spec'd out at 57, which was way too soft...
 
I know just enough to be dangerous--I'm still convinced that S30V lives up to the hype. It has significantly better wear resistance than ATS-34 and VG-10, but also slightly better toughness and corrosion resistance. Typically with steels when one goes up, the others go down.

A couple yrs. ago I talked to Tim Wegner of Blade-Tech at a local gun show. He said that when he was using ATS-34 he used to sometimes get knives returned w/ broken tips, but after he switched to S-30V he had yet to get even one back.

That said, I wonder if there is not an overuse of stainless. I think stainless is clearly good for the average joe who can be expected to abuse anything. I wonder if (say) the Sebbie user would not be better off w/ a carbon steel blade. Lack of corrosion resistance can be compensated for by TLC (and DLC) but lack of edge strength can't.

Everybody & their brother uses stainless, especially S30V, for folders. I am sold on the CPM steels, but I wonder if there shouldn't be much more use of CPM 3V or CPM M4 in folders. If we're going to pay $500 for a folder, it seems like we deserve to have the best possible option, and not blindly go with S30V.
 
If we're going to pay $500 for a folder, it seems like we deserve to have the best possible option, and not blindly go with S30V.

I agree. I wouldn't mind having a tool steel in the mix of options for a Sebbie. One could go with the Devin Thomas damascus but I really don't know if that is much better then the S30V. I haven’t found any scientific tests done on both side by side.
 
I've cut copper wire with my Sebenza without problems. I don't know what edge you had or how you cut wire .I think 58-59 is the best hardness for most things.

It was just the factory edge. Granted, rolling most likely happened because of the possibility of having a wire edge.

I've had nothing but bad luck with S30V knives in edge retention and sharpening. I hate the stuff. Others have had good luck - go figure.

Getting your blade re-hardened to 60 - 61 HRC will help a lot. My Sebenza spec'd out at 57, which was way too soft...

Wouldn’t re-hardening at 60-61 make the blade more brittle?
 
Of all the stainless steels available, my first choice would be CPM154, then S30V, then 13C26 (or 19c27). Both as maker and user.

And all hardened to 60 HRc.


There are a few setbacks with S30V (compared to other stainless steels):

1 - not as stain resistant (comp to 440C) because it is harder to polish
2 - harder to sharpen (high wear resistance)
3 - "toothy" edge - rather than fine/polished edge


However...if you:

1 - maintain your knife properly
2 - use diamond hones and strop regularly
3 - are willing to adjust how you use the knife...(regarding cutting)


Then S30V will be your best friend. :thumbup:


I use a S30V folder in the shop all the time and beat on it mercilessly...I scrap against steel, cut abrasive belts, tear up yards of cardboard....all on a regular basis...sometimes just "because"....and I have yet to have any problems with it.

But I have already "adjusted" to the 3 guidelines above....so it's not a problem for me. *shrug*

Dan
 
Wouldn’t re-hardening at 60-61 make the blade more brittle?

Each steel has 2 "hardness curves"....one for toughness, one for wear resistance. You have to read the charts and decide for yourself where the best "combination" lies.

For me, it's at 60 HRc. :thumbup:
 
Of all the stainless steels available, my first choice would be CPM154, then S30V, then 13C26 (or 19c27). Both as maker and user.

And all hardened to 60 HRc.


There are a few setbacks with S30V (compared to other stainless steels):

1 - not as stain resistant (comp to 440C) because it is harder to polish
2 - harder to sharpen (high wear resistance)
3 - "toothy" edge - rather than fine/polished edge


However...if you:

1 - maintain your knife properly
2 - use diamond hones and strop regularly
3 - are willing to adjust how you use the knife...(regarding cutting)


Then S30V will be your best friend. :thumbup:


I use a S30V folder in the shop all the time and beat on it mercilessly...I scrap against steel, cut abrasive belts, tear up yards of cardboard....all on a regular basis...sometimes just "because"....and I have yet to have any problems with it.

But I have already "adjusted" to the 3 guidelines above....so it's not a problem for me. *shrug*

Dan

Hmmm….well, I’m not worried about the stain resistant, I do like the high wear resistance and the toothy edge is perfect.:thumbup: Big fan, hence the reason why I like tool steel. Personal, I thought the ATS-34 was toothy. In your opinion is the S30V more so? I ask because I don’t have that much experience with this steel.

My maintenance is up, I do use diamond hones but I haven’t gotten into the stropping yet. Could I substitute the EdgePro with tape/ceramic for the strop? And if you’re scraping metal, cutting belts, cardboard, etc. generally abrasive items then I’m almost sure I should be fine.

It seems like the rolling of the edge may have been caused by the factory edge.


Each steel has 2 "hardness curves"....one for toughness, one for wear resistance. You have to read the charts and decide for yourself where the best "combination" lies.

For me, it's at 60 HRc. :thumbup:

I'll have to look around for those charts and take a look. Is there companies that test RC and re-harden?

Thank you for the help.
 
My Sebenza is like that. It just doesn't hold an edge as well as my other S30V knives. On the other hand it holds an edge better that some of my carbon steel knives.

From my experience as far as production knives, Spyderco seems to have S30V heat treating perfected.
 
I am also finding that my sebbie does not hold an edge as well as say my military.

I have to conclude that the difference must lie in the hardness treatment?

I also wonder if the hollow grind and edge angle of the sebbie blade have anything to do with it??

I have been using a sharpmaker to maintain the edge on all my knives and since using the sebbie I have ordered a strop (because it was not holding an edge as well as my other S30V bladed knives). I have not got it yet, but I am looking forward to seeing if this will make a difference.

I think I will also take on the points that Daniel Koster listed.

Cheers
Frank
 
Well, you asked for opinions and experiences, so. . . ;-)

I was a little bit worried about S30V when I bought my first tool using it, after having heard a few mentions of chipping and such. Especially because it wasn't a knife, it was a Peter Atwood Prybaby. For the first few weeks, I went out of my way to be careful of it, but then realized that it's silly to carry a miniature prying tool that I'm afraid to use. Better to use it, and if it breaks, then I learn my lesson and find something else that works.

So I used it. You could even say I abused it. That little sucker held up like a champ, and even years later, it still looks like it's almost new.

So, I took the plunge and bought a Spyderco Native with S30V. And I put it through it's paces. Hard.

Between the two, S30V has impressed me well beyond what I expected. Enough so that based on the performance of the knives I've had in S30V, I was willing to spend $300 on a custom Graham Brothers Razel in S30V.

I got my Razel a few weeks ago, and so far, it's meeting my expectations of S30V set by previous knives.

Basically, my experience has led me to consider it as good as any other steel, and better than most, for a general purpose (EDC) knife. There are a few others I would put in in roughly the same class as S30V (in order of preference, after S30V: BG-42, VG-10, CPM 154CM, D2), but none of them would I consider better.E
 
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