s30V sharpening +er folders

It depends on what you are cutting. S90V and CPM-10V can both get fairly hard (62/63 and 64/65 HRC respectively) and have very high wear resistance, so for cutting a lot of materials (ropes, carboard etc.) they would do well. However both are very brittle with low ductile failure points, so they chip easily and thus could go blunt much faster on tougher cutting. In addition CPM-10V has a low corrosion resistance.

Some types of cutting demand a high hardness only, some need this and wear resistance, some corrosion resistance, some toughness. As an example, Alvin Johnson has done numerous comparisons (field reports from users) of 1095 blades at 66 HRC compared to various high grade stainless steels (ATS-34, 154CM, yes Paul Bos heat treated etc.) and his plain carbon steel with no alloy carbides vastly outlasted the stainless steels at 60/62 HRC because the carbon steel was simply harder and most of the materials that were being cut were not very abrasive.

-Cliff
 
Originally posted by rockrewls
So all this being said would it be safe to say that excluding workability that s90v or 10v will hold a edge the best compared to other steels?
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Not safe, per se, but, at an equal Rc level and equal angle, used against materials that won't provide much direct damage to the edge, sure. Where they have a higher level of brittleness, the way they'd dull would be heartbreaking.

I've read (but not directly experienced) of tool stamping dies made from 3V outlasting 10V, but I don't know what they were used on or how that'd translate to cutting with a knife.

Edited to add
Cliff beat me to the punch with better examples.
 
thombrogan :

[tool stamping]

...how that'd translate to cutting with a knife.
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With heavy chopping the major cause of blunting is fracture, I have done cycles of heavy chopping with ATS-34 blades and have them see little to no wear but go fairly blunt and take a long time to resharpen to remove all the chips. In comparions far simpler steels are much more suitable as not only will they not chip, but in extreme when they do (hit a rock or whatever) they much higher machinability makes them much easier to repair. So for example L6 has much better edge retention when chopping than CPM-10V.

-Cliff
 
Thom,

Don't worry. I only use the 100 grit for tomahawks and lawnmower blades. Even the 180 only gets used the first time I make the bevel uniform on a new knife. It's the 220 0r the 320 from then on. I never let stuff go totally dull.

As for slurry, I've rarely found it on good knives. Get me a Pakistani special, and the stuff runs onto the floor!
 
Originally posted by The Tourist
As for slurry, I've rarely found it on good knives.
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Would it be safe to guess that you try to match the manufacturer's edge profile insofar as it's a uniform bevel? If so, that may be why you only see it on relatively low-quality knives as they tend to have wildly uneven bevels. If you're matching the bevels of blades with better quality control (Strider, Kershaw, or Microtech for example), much less slurry would be generated.

I reprofiled my Spyderco ATR down to 15 degrees per side (thick blade and was closer to 18 degrees originally) and produced a fair amount of runoff steel. I reprofiled my Dad's Swiss Army Knife down to 15 degrees and, despite its much thinner blade, it produced even more gunk.

Hence my suspicion that you don't try to remove too much metal ever and certainly not in one sharpening.
 
thombrogan, yeah i have a sharpmaker. thanks for the info. just takes a little extra effort i guess.
 
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