S30V Sharpening Stone

EdsElephant

EdsElephant

Joined
Jan 12, 2016
Messages
128
I am looking at buying a new S30V 110 and have never had an S30V blade. I just have medium and fine natural stones and they have worked fine for me to now. What do you all recommend? I assume a good diamond stone but which ones? And will my natural fine honing stone be sufficient or should go ahead and order a fine diamond stone with my medium one? Thanks. Stephen
 
Search thru the threads for David Martins sharpening recommends. He has some great advice. Others here as well of course.

I've always just used my Sharpmaker system on everything without issue but I'm always looking for other methods to play with. I plan on getting stones as well after advice from David but haven't yet. I've seen about everyone say though to use the Sharpie on your edge to be sure of your angle, unless of course you plan on reprofiling. You'll need diamonds for sure if doing that.

I did just get a new Ken Onion Worksharp but haven't played with it yet. Grandkids over all weekend so no playtime for me. Lol.

You'll get some good replies I suspect.
 
Ed, welcome to the Buck Forum. S30V is a nice cutting steel. Your natural stone will not cut this steel because of the vanadium in it. Diamond and SiC will. It depends on what level edge you like on your 110. A 2X6" stone is good. You can find them here. http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Dia-Sharp-Stones-C166.aspx
Perhaps 2 plates will do you, a coarse & fine use a light touch when grinding. Thanks, Joe. DM
 
Is stropping s30v possible?
I don't have anything with that steel, (or any other "super steel") I'm just courious.
 
Yes, it is. I do it with SiC slurry applied to the leather strop. I have diamond slurry as well in a oil carrier and have used this. I wouldn't label S30V as a super steel. That category is for those steels with much higher vanadium content. It was closer to that label 10 years ago. DM
 
The 2 types of surface on a diamond stone is duo-sharp & dia-sharp. The first being a hole punched looking surface (as you say interrupted) and the later a continuous surface.
The duo surface holds half as much diamond particles as the full surface. They both work. The dia works faster. Plus, when sharpening a knife's tip I've had the duo-sharp damage it when it drops down in a hole. I own several of these different styles diamond stones. I use them sparingly as the surface layer is very thin with the diamond particles and being friable they will break & shear off. So, I don't get the life out of them that I get with other stones. Plus, they are pricey. (just my experience, your mileage may vary) The 2 different types of diamonds used on stones are monocrystalline & polycrystalline. The better longer lasting type is the monocrystalline. This is the type DMT uses. The other brands use the polycrystalline type diamonds. If you don't sharpen a lot the Smith stones will work. Good luck, DM
 
Not sure if they are available where you live, but if costs are a concern the Eden 2000/5000 combo stone is a very nice aluminum oxide ceramic stone.

Unlike advertised it's more like 1000/3000 irl, but ime it covers most basis.
 
I've not seen those. But it looks like their grit is stated in Japanese grit standards. Whereas I mostly convert to American grit standards (ASTM). I would think those would be nice stones. I read about guys liking the Shapton ceramic stones. DM
 
What is the finest grit you recommend David for finishing? And in a natural stone for the fine finish? I know I've asked you before but can't find it and I thought the question fit the theme of the thread.
 
Joe, I'm a more utility edge sharpener. So, for my tastes I finish my S30V blades on the coarse diamond and other times the Norton India. Both are around 320 grit. But the India leaves the finer edge. I normally carry both these stones with me. For natural stones, I have all 5 grades and it depends on what the goal is as to how fine I take it. My 110 with 425M steel I've finished on the Washita stone about 500 grit. I have a 8" carver in 01 steel and I recently finished it on the soft Arkansas 600 grit. Last month I finished my hatchet and axe on the true hard Arkansas around 900 grit. It now limbs and splits great. My razor I'll finish it on the black hard Arkansas. Then take it on to a extra fine ceramic and strop on the green chromuim oxide compound at .5 micron. This gives a good shave. I do have a 110 I sharpened on that extra fine ceramic (about 2200 grit)specifically for removing splinters. I don't like having to dig jagged holes in my hands to get a thorn out. This knife I've found useful for my bird dog after a day afield. As she'll have some cactus thorns. Today I sharpened my wife's secateurs on a fine diamond rod. Which most of my round rods are. DM
 
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I have no problems sharpening S30V with my Lansky sharpening system (regular stones, not diamond). Puts a very nice edge on it without too much work at all.
 
David - you have a degree in sharpening? Lol. Gotta get a set of stones now. Am going to try out the Work Sharp tomorrow though on my wife's cheap kitchen knives. :)
 
VT, that's what I've noticed. What is your regular stones made of? I rebeveled my Cabela's Alaskan Guide 110 on a SiC 100 grit coarse stone. This took me an hour on this stone. Which I thought was not bad taking it from a 17* down to a 15* edge bevel. I doubt my extra coarse diamond stone (220 grit)could have done this a lot faster. My experience has been that diamonds work somewhat faster-- a little. At least in this effort. Thanks, Joe. DM
 
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David, just read your sharpening article in the Buck Collectors Newsletter - very nicely done! OH
 
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