S30V Sharpening Stone

I'm pretty sure, although nothing in the paperwork or online says so, that the extra coarse (70 grit), coarse (120 grit), medium (280 grit) and fine (600 grit) stones are all carborundum and that the extra fine (1000 grit) stone is aluminum oxide ceramic. I started with the coarse stone, alternating 8 strokes on a side until I'd raised a burr on both, then de-burring and checking for sharpness. When I had an edge that would cut paper well at 120 grit, I started working up through the grits, alternating six strokes per side for just two or three cycles before moving to the next grit. You get a feel for when each stone has done its work. I finished with the extra fine ceramic, then stropped on bare leather. I have a hard time maintaining the angle on my strop, though, so I'm considering picking up a stropping hone for the Lansky system.
 
I have to edit the above, which I wrote at work without my Lansky stones in front of me. My judgment of the stones having used them tonight on my Duke is is that the extra coarse and coarse are definitely carborundum but the medium and fine seem to be some kind of ceramic, tan and reddish-brown in color, respectively. The 1000 seems definitely to be aluminum oxide, as I said before.

I got a very nice edge on my Duke, too, in the end, but it took a lot longer than just touching up my 501 in S30V. The existing bevel was very narrow at the belly and the heel and required some significant reprofiling with the extra coarse stone. I think the heel could still use some work, but I was getting impatient. Once I started moving up through the grits I didn't find the 440C significantly different from the S30V.
 
Good. With 440C it's the chromium carbides that resists metal grinding. And the grains seemed larger on non-powder steels. Good work. DM
 
It did seem a little...grainier, yes. I wouldn't have thought to describe it that way, but it had a different feel—less smooth at lower grits.
 
Yes,-- at lower grits. This edge feel when cutting diminishes at around 400 grit. Especially after stropping. Which could leave the edge looking like a 500 grit pattern. Then it cuts smoother. S30V reacts similar. DM
 
Is it typical for a 1970's 500 to have almost no bevel at the heel, or is this a result of the previous owner's sharpening? I also found that the bevel was pretty asymmetric.
 
Those early models having 440C steel had thicker blades and obtuse edge bevels. Perhaps 19*. So, yes when they are given a 16* the bevel has more flat surface. That style changed in the early 80's. I like that models maroon micarta handles. DM
 
Yeah, I love the red Micarta. Such a beautiful grain pattern on it. I've settled into a routine of carrying the 501 in S30V and walnut Dymondwood when I wear dress pants or khakis and the 500 in 440C and red Micarta when I wear jeans. Unfortunately I scratched up the blade of the 500, so I'm thinking about sending it to Buck for spa treatment. Hopefully they can buff out the scratches.
 
They can, it's no problem. Here's a 500 I carry that was offered in green canvas micarta and S30V steel. DM
 
That green micarta is really nice looking. I may need to search for one of those. May be spendy tho'. But what isn't anymore. :)
 
Thanks for the tips DM. I've been looking into getting a new stone or two this year and the link you provided is exactly what I was looking for.
 
You're welcome. They offer the U.S. made Norton stones too. I think a better stone. DM
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top