S30v Sharpmaker Reprofiling Help?

[DeadboxHero]

Looks fine to me Jared.

As long as it's sharp.

Who cares hahaha

As far as getting the tip on the Sharpmaker, move the handle of the knife towards the inside enough to follow the belly all the way to the tip.

The same thing applies on bench stones. Except you raise the handle

 

[bgentry]

I'll give you a pic so far. It is really difficult to see, but the first inch or so just isn't sharp, while the rest of the blade is extremely sharp to where it flys through newspaper and shaves easily after being on the ultra fines.

Like you say, you can't really see if the blade is sharp or not from that picture. The good news is, the bevel looks clean in that area. Maybe just a bit wider as it approaches the choil; again hard to be sure from the picture. But it looks good overall. That choil area of blades is a very common trouble spot. I've had quite a few factory ground edges that were messed up in that area: Different angles, not ground fully, different bevel widths... all kinds of ugliness in that area.

It's pretty common on knives in general for some areas of the blade to be more dull than the rest. So you work the dull areas more until the whole blade is the same uniform sharpness. I call this "Selective Grinding" in my Seven Secrets Of Sharpening.

It's a little more difficult to do selective grinding on the Sharpmaker, but you can do it. I think you probably have some pretty good familiarity with the mechanics of the system by now. Just keep working that area, making sure to do blending strokes from time to time and you should be able to get it sharp. Maybe use the reflected light test to see if that area is truly dull and the level of dullness. The brighter and wider the reflection, the more dull the area is.

Good luck!

Brian.

 

[cbwx34]

That choil area of blades is a very common trouble spot. I've had quite a few factory ground edges that were messed up in that area: Different angles, not ground fully, different bevel widths... all kinds of ugliness in that area.

Add to this the 'sharpening notch' is not properly done... part of the reason you're having problems in that area, is because the metal gets thicker, so it throws off the stone contact, requires either a wider bevel or change in angle to get sharp, or you can stop in front of the thick area (or even cut a new notch).

On my knives, if I want that area sharp, I'll usually opt for the wider bevel (that's the OP knife on top for reference)...

Pay attention to how the stone contacts... like I said before you can use the flat side, but if you're not careful, the back part of the stone will 'ride up' on the thick area, and can cause the front part to 'dig in' to the bevel.

I know you said you don't want to buy anything else... but even a few pieces of coarse sandpaper on a flat surface, would make your life better (at least for future reference)....

 

[Jared C.]

Hey thanks guys! Took the knife out today because i needed to use it and everything after the first 1 1/2 inches worked amazing! I noticed the blade has a very small chip out of the blade right in the belly, and i know the only way to remove that is to take off metal until it is gone, so debating whether or not to do that quite yet. When I run the blade over the front of my finger nail it picks up the main chip I see and 2 other imperfections right next to that spot. I may try and take it all out, but would it be better to use the medium stones or diamonds, not sure if diamonds may make the chip a little bit worse.

 

[DeadboxHero]

Diamonds bro

 

[Jared C.]

Alright, thanks! I am working on it right now and it seems to be a little better but the main chip is still there. I think I will just leave it for now and work it out over time.