S30V Vs. AUS-8

Joined
May 8, 2005
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127
A lot of people seem to really like aus-8, but, Personally, I don't much care for it. The stainless-ness (real word?) is great, but the edge retention and relative squishy-ness of the steel is awful. I'm not doggin on it, just presenting my view a bit.

Anyhoo, in terms of edge retention, and overall better cutting performance, which is better between Aus-8 and S30V?

As a side note, Aus-8 vs. 154 CM?

I have been carrying an aus-8 knife for seven years, and now that I'm a little more educated, I Really want to find a better choice.
I wish they made a small pocket folder in 52100.
Thanx
 
bzzhewt said:
Anyhoo, in terms of edge retention, and overall better cutting performance, which is better between Aus-8 and S30V?

Cutting performance will depend on which ever one is ground more optimally. For most materials S30V will significantly outlast AUS-8, as it is harder and more wear resistant.

The only real concern is that there have been some reports of poor intitial problems with S30V which required some extensive sharpening to correct poor steel in the edge.

As a side note, Aus-8 vs. 154 CM?

Same thing, but not as much.

-Cliff
 
Moving from Cold Steel's AUS-8A to Benchmade's 154CM, I saw about double the edge-retention in plain-edged blades (didn't measure edge retention in serrated blades). Moving from Benchmade's 154CM to their S30V and Spyderco's S30V, I've had hit or miss edge-retention. Moving from those same companies' heat-treats of S30V to Phil Wilson's heat-treats, I've noticed maybe a 25% increase in edge retention.
 
What is the hardness on the Wilson blades? I am going to see if I can't convince him to try oil quenching some of mine. He has a lot to play with as I'll send him a half dozen and I don't care if he fries all of them minus one experimenting.

-Cliff
 
I think Spyderco made their AUS8 blades harder than Cold Steel did, so the Voyager is not a perfect example of that steel.

I would pick s30v or 154cm over AUS8 though, and I am not all that crazy about s30v anyway. It's pretty good stuff, though as Cliff said I am pretty sure my Spyderco in s30v had some issues before multiple sharpenings. It is better now, still not my favorite blade to sharpen even a little, but it would outlast my Voyager.
 
I personally like aus8 over 154 cm, but s30v is great but it is more prone to manufacture defects due to being a powder forged steel. Vg-10 in my experience has the best edge retention, but it’s not as hard as aus8 or s30v. Comes down to what somebody likes better in a blade, I personally love blackjacks aus8, cold steels aus8 used to be not that great but I have seen an increase in their performance, benchmades s30v if made right is probably the better of the steels, but it is prone to defects. I personally prefer blackjacks aus8 over cold steels because I have used it more, but when I bought my friend a tai pan from cold steel, it was one of the best knives I have ever handled. Just my opinion.
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Carl what are your concerns/problems with it after extensive work?

-Cliff

Mainly sharpening, if you mean s30v.

The edge on my s30v Native is now almost 1mm back from where it once was, after repeated sharpening and reprofiling. I am almost certain at this point that the edge suffered from some malady, perhaps metal fatigue, when it was new. Whether this was from some factory condition or my fault during the original sharpening (it was a little dull when new, even compared to another of the same model) I don't know. I asked Sal about it in the Spyderco forum, but neither he (not blaming him, I'm sure he can't catch every single message posted there) nor anyone else had any comment.

I did a long and careful job using a Sharpmaker to avoid edge fatigue. Spyderco says use a good amount of pressure to make sharpening work, but instead I did it very light. I got rid of the edge burr completely. It ended up very sharp and smooth.

In casual non-scientific testing, my s30v Native might actually be giving me a small advantage in edge retention over my VG10 Delica, also sharpened very carefully (although the burr went away easier on it). Mainly I cut large amounts of paper and cardboard. Nothing too stressfull.

I gave both the Delica and Native a few good hard strokes (maybe 4 or 5) on a rod sharpener as if I were in a hurry to sharpen them. Both of course got an edge burr immediately, though the Delica seemed to a little less so. Both initially had as close to the same edge angle as I could get (prior to the Sharpmaker, I used a clamping Smith's system to set the profile). I was able to sharpen the Delica up and get rid of the edge burr fairly quick by following up with more careful strokes in under a minute. But the Native's burr was a major pain in the rear and would not go away completely even after 5 minutes of careful sharpening. It remained there in at least a miniscule amount indefinitely. A single stroke would push it over to the other side, so it wasn't going anywhere fast. I had to switch to a fine diamond stone for a while to eventually get rid of it, then follow up with a similar, but longer, process which the Delica required as the only sharpening step to return to full function.

This could have been avoided with careful, but still longer, sharpening on the Native rather than the rush test. But I wasn't doing anything harsh for the usage test. If I were cutting rope, wood, or even slicing against a flat surface (it's easy to slice through free-hanging paper with zero lateral force), I would imagine the edge fatigue would be inevitable and the big annoyance of sharpening the s30v blade would again pop up.

I would like to note that I don't think s30v is horrible, nor is VG10 perfect. Both are better than AUS8 or 440c, while still not as good as some well-hardened but unlabeled tool steels I have used. A persistant burr from edge fatigue is almost as bad as breaking that same portion of steel clean off (in fact I have recomended doing that on purpose as a solution to persistant burrs), even worse if the broken-off edge would respond to sharpening better (which is almost certain to be the case if it doesn't retain a large burr to begin with). Both are very good for knives as most of us use them, but I would certainly be happier with a few other things if I were to get lost in the woods for a month. I do notice that VG10 is more of what I would want than s30v.
 
Could be that the edge got a little too hot suring the sharpening process at the factory. That would explain it taking a better edge, futher into the blade. I've seen very few factory knives marked 440-C. but a lot of 440. THEY ARE NOT THE SAME. As far as surgical Stainless goes. Only means it doesn't corode at 212 degrees F. No one wants to be operated on with rusty surgical tools.
 
Carl64 said:
I did a long and careful job using a Sharpmaker to avoid edge fatigue. Spyderco says use a good amount of pressure to make sharpening work, but instead I did it very light.

I've had better results using light pressure with the Sharpmaker on just about anything. In fact they emphasize that you don't need too much pressure in the video. Just enough to remove some metal, which isn't much at all.
 
Ryan8 said:
I've had better results using light pressure with the Sharpmaker on just about anything. In fact they emphasize that you don't need too much pressure in the video. Just enough to remove some metal, which isn't much at all.

Let me make a correction. The manual says "press hard enough to remove metal," it does not read as I implied. It also says "excess pressure does not improve performance," though it does not say excess pressure can actually be harmful.

The manual is kind of vague and lacking detail, but I guess it is hard to explain exactly how much pressure to use. I always use light pressure, I would say no more than what it takes to slice through a sheet of paper or two.
 
Thanks for the details Carl, wow, ~1mm is a lot of work. I think a lot, if not all of the problems you are describing are due to the hardness of the S30V in the production knives. If you have the time or inclination you might want to consider getting it rehardened by Wilson, at ~61 HRC it should have a better combination of hardness and wear resistance.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Thanks for the details Carl, wow, ~1mm is a lot of work. I think a lot, if not all of the problems you are describing are due to the hardness of the S30V in the production knives. If you have the time or inclination you might want to consider getting it rehardened by Wilson, at ~61 HRC it should have a better combination of hardness and wear resistance.

-Cliff

Who Wilson? I would certainly be interested in doing that. Can he hack and replace the peened pivot pin, or do I need to send just a blade? I couldn't remove and replace it myself and be sure to get a good result. Or maybe it's time to learn.

It was definitely a lot of sharpening. I did a couple edge angles and intentionally removed excess steel to try getting rid of "bad" stuff. And this steel does NOT like to be worn down!
 
I would be interested in that.

How much does that aftermarket heat treat cost for a Manix?
 
So, basically aus-8 is a bit tougher and more flexible, thus has less edge retention?
And s30v and 154 cm are a bit harder more brittle, but due to the hardness, excellent edge retention?
Did I get this right guys?
 
For most cutting yes, ropes, cardboard, foods and such. On some really hard work like digging, a slightly tougher steel can be better for edge retention as it can prevent chipping.

-Cliff
 
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