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If you really want a steel than can get sharper than both S30V and D2, try ELMAX or go with pure Carbon --if you don't care about corrosion resistance.
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s30v vs. D2 sharpness
- Thread starter dantheman4114
- Start date
Ankerson
Knife and Computer Geek
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- 21,094
ELMAX or XHP, both of those will get EXTREMEY sharp.
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Jun 13, 2007
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- 11,169
If you take out all factors of blade geometry, thickness, and hardness the the sharper edge will always come from the S30V due to its finer, cleaner, and more evenly distributed micro-structure.
<3 My Kulgera, my favorite knife. I took it down to 30* inclusive, but it kind of took longer than I liked to touch back up when it needed it so I use a microbevel now. 40* inclusive would probably be fine, but yeah, 50* inclusive would kind of be a waste of nicer steels since you could get better edge retention at more acute angles with D2 and S30V than you can with most other steels.
Sorry I can't help with the steel choice since I haven't used D2, but I really like that setup on my Kulgera and S30V is really nice steel. Even once it loses that "razor sharpness" it still cuts paper and stuff like that with ease for a really long time.
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- Apr 21, 2016
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- 226
Hello, newcomer to the forums here
Sadly, i have not had experience with S30V, but I have a CPM-D2 edge on my kershaw leek 1660cb that recently landed me in hospital with 6 stitches. I usually sharpen with the Spyderco Sharpmaker then strop by hand with green compound, but this time, I decided to power strop. The edge is scary sharp now. I have nothing but praise for CPM-D2 and it not being stainless isnt REALLY an issue, as it is very stain resistant nonetheless. In my experience CPM-D2 is a solid choice and you shouldn't shy from it simply because it isn't "stainless"
Sadly, i have not had experience with S30V, but I have a CPM-D2 edge on my kershaw leek 1660cb that recently landed me in hospital with 6 stitches. I usually sharpen with the Spyderco Sharpmaker then strop by hand with green compound, but this time, I decided to power strop. The edge is scary sharp now. I have nothing but praise for CPM-D2 and it not being stainless isnt REALLY an issue, as it is very stain resistant nonetheless. In my experience CPM-D2 is a solid choice and you shouldn't shy from it simply because it isn't "stainless"
In my case, with an RJ Martin "Blackbird" chopping into Maple, S30V does way more than wear faster: It fold over into a micro-wire edge in less than 15 chops at 30+ degrees inclusive. You can see the wire edge exactly where the blade hit, and no wire edge where I didn't hit... And I am careful about exterminating wire edges beforehand. It may even happen on the first few hits...
A 1985 Lile "Mission" in D-2, by contrast, will hold up perfectly in a hundred chops at 20 degrees inclusive.
No comparison at all, the D-2 (or 440C, since Lile doesn't mark them) is way superior, the S30V being so bad it actually ruins an otherwise fine knife.
And RJ Martin is a stickler for heat-treating to specs down the last detail... I general, based on my S30V experience, I would always avoid any CPM steel.
Gaston
Wow what a surprise... just an another ignorance comment about steel from this guy
Are you really stupid enough to think that hundreds of competent knife company/maker will pick the steel which far more expensive but actually lower in performance?? I bet you didn't. You just trolling around craving for attention.