S30V vs VG-10

mckrob

mckrob

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What are the major similarities/differences between S30V and VG-10?

How do they both compare to Aus-8/10 ?
 
they are WAY better than Aus8/10. Hell, even 154CM and ATS34 are better.

S30V's performance depends a lot on the heat-treat. Generally holds an edge better than VG10. However, in Spyderco's line, I prefer VG10. I don't know why...it gets sharper (maybe it's just a perception) and is easy to resharpen.

However, I think Spyderco's CATRA tests show that S30V holds an edge at least 25% better than VG10.
 
also a lot of people like spydercos VG 10 serrations better, more crisp and pointy.
as far as that goes I've heard a lot of disappointment with serrated zdp being rather chippy.

But as far as Plainedge goes zdp this post to be the best gets an edge like VG 10 or better and is more rare resistant then S30v

also I've heard but I've not had much experience with aus 10 actually being a pretty good steel much better than aus 8
 
Both put AUS8/10 to shame. S30V holds an edge longer than VG-10, but VG-10 is easier to sharpen, and tougher.
 
My personal opinion, based on knives I've made from it, and knives I've bought made from it, is that S30V sucks. It's ok steel, I suppose, but CPM154CM and BG42 perform better for me.
 
imho S30V is a long way from sukkin and i have had no probs with any of my S30V knives (3 ti ATR's and some strider folders too to name a few).

i've heard folks complain of chipping with '30V but i havent ever had that problem with it myself.
 
This is an on-going thing for some people, me included.

I've gotten rid of all the S30V knives I had, even though I really liked the Paramilitary and the Manix. If you ever want to do your own sharpening, then if your experience ends up like mine, you'll *REALLY* have a much harder time sharpening S30V than you will VG10. All I have now are VG10 steel Spydercos - because they hold an edge well, but I'm actually able to resharpen them.

To each their own. Maybe my technique is just poor - but I know I can count on sharpening VG10, so that's what I stick with.
 
S30V requires a little more 'care' than VG10, it's grain structure seems to make it more prone to chipping, more so on serrated edges. Some time with a fine stone will usually offset that.
however. Between the two, i do tend to lean towards S30V, but that's because i tend to be a little lazy about resharpening.
 
I would rank VG 10 on top, with S30V right around AUS 8A. For me, VG 10 is easy to sharpen, and holds an edge the longest. S30V is very hard to get a good edge on, and doesn't hold it very long. AUS 8A is the easiest to get a super edge on, but only holds it - oh , about to the end of this sentence. ;)

Some exaggerations, but hopefully you get the picture. I would pick VG 10 above the other two. Other people have had much better luck with S30V, and you'll see a wide variety of reactions in posts. YMMV.
 
Hell, in using I can't really tell much of a difference between 154CM, ATS34 VG10 or S30V. 5 mins on a strop or sharpmaker and it's done. If it's dinged up, 2 mins on a diamond stone to remove the chip, then 10 mins on the Lansky, back to strop/sharpmaker status. And the Lansky treatment only happens with reprofiling or damage so either when I first get the knife or not to often at all. But I have had bad heat treated knives, those suck all around.
 
They are the same. No difference whatsoever. No need to even worry about it. Just buy the knife you like and enjoy. Don't be a steel snob, it's not worth the trouble. I tried to be a snob for a long time and then realized that they're all good. But S30V is better than any of them if you really need to know.
 
I kind of agree with slatts, their all good in the realm of VG 10 in higher. one thing I have noticed is s30v holds its factory edge and extreme sharpness significantly longer than VG 10 in my experience.

Another thing to consider is how you sharpen at this point I have diamond rods, a diamond sharpening stone, assorted natural stones and a sharp maker. so reprofiled and in getting he reasonably good edge is no problem. but getting back to Scarry sharp is still difficult for me.

I have a theory although I have little evidence, that because I'm a little heavy handed will sharpening, something that is surprisingly hard to on teach at least for me, harder steals like s30v seem to work a little better for me. possibly because they break down more delicately, i.e. withstand my sharpening methods better thus giving me a better result. Also they maintain a very true level of sharpness from sharpening to sharpening which probably helps as well.

As far as classic spyderco's are concerned I like ATS 34 and 55 I think it is safe to say they do perform better than the rest of the older steel spyderco used. The only downside I have noticed specifically with ATS 34 is a slight propensity toward rusting. I have gotten the majority of the dozen or so tiny redish blemishes I've ever gotten on my knives on the steel.

The only steel I've ever used that I would really advise people to stay away from is aus 6 which I used extensively as a box cutting knife. and will go doll within a day or two under heavy use seriously pretty doll.
 
I am not a sharpening expert. I did some touch up sharpening on my Manix when it arrived with a black arkansas natural benchstone and then a leather strap -- its so sharp that its a bit scary... I gave the same treatment to my fallniven P1 (vg10) with the same result -- I can't tell the difference in sharpness between the two -- they both are great... same can be said for my spyderco kiwi in vg10 or my fallniven P1....
 
If you guys have trouble sharpening S30V, try using waterstones! I made some S30V knives years ago, and tried some waterstones on them. They responded well to them, as well as diamond stones.
 
Purportedly, the Japanese horitculture industry sought out VG-10, either requesting its development or publishing qualities they sought in a horticulture steel.

In this case, horticulture steel refers to a steel with a micro-structure edge texture that favors slicing, or sawing, over wedging or chiseling through tough materials.

The Japanese horticulture industry wanted a steel that would slice through plant capillaries without crushing them.
They needed this edge-quality for cutting grafts.

By this logic, given the same edge geometry amongst various steels, VG-10 will supposedly slice with the least amount of pressure (reportedly, obsidian, or volcanic glass, slices with the least pressure).
Accordingly, VG-10 probably makes sacrifices or compromises in other areas important to knife steel, in order to attain this one alleged quality.
Please note that many knife manufacturers sandwich VG-10 between outer layers of lower-carbon "stainless" steel.

When it comes to a self-defense knife steel, in which toughness and corrosion-resistance represent the highest priorities (highest priorities to me...humble opinion and all), then BG-42 and S30V come out on top.
Very few people can or will heat treat BG-42, and so that leaves S30V.

I carry my S30V Chinook II (hollowground, of course) in my waistband while bicycling.
It gets thoroughly soaked, daily, in salty sweat.
I carry it for no other purpose than self-defense, and it receives no use and no care, other than a light steeling (takes off the "fuzz") once a month or so.
S30V really resists corrosion, and especially so for a usable, tough knife steel.

For those who have trouble sharpening any steel, regardless of type, try steeling your knife on the same day you use it.
A butcher's steel, or straightening steel, will keep even the most difficult-to-sharpen knife razor hair-popping sharp with only a few strokes per day...if one steels his knife every day he uses it.

Invest in a good and large sharpening steel and keep it handy in the kitchen.

Does Spyderco make a large butcher's sharpening steel?
If not, Spyderco should.
I'd buy one.

If I use a knife during the day, I steel it that night in the kitchen before going to bed.
It takes all of ten seconds.
 
Both are excellent steels. Assuming a good heat treat S30V
will hold an edge longer and is a tougher steel.

Although, there have been many reports of chipping with S30V
which makes it perform like a lower end steel.

VG-10 is easier to sharpen then S30V if there has been significant
blunting. I also seem to be able to get a very, very fine edge on VG-10.

I personally like VG-10 because I don't have to worry about getting
a knife that chips and it is easier to sharpen.

In the end you would have to cut a lot of material or a really course
material to know the difference.
 
If you look at the composition there is minimal difference between AUS-10 and VG10. I can't tell the difference between them in practice. Both of them take better razor edges than S30V (of course, so does AUS-8). I think of AUS8, AUS10, VG10 as part of a series of Japanese style fine cutlery steels. S30V has better wear resistance, but is a notch down in edge refinement.

You can look at the Spyderco Steel Chart for some indications of the differences.
http://spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/steelchart.html
 
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