S90V - Ultimate blade or extreme headache?

B

Brad M

Joined
Jan 17, 2007
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12
I did a few searches and didn't find much on S90V. Does anyone regularly use this steel? Crucible's specs show it as being about 10 times more wear resistant than D2 but I assume it's @#$%%^ to work with. How does it compare to S30V for workability?

Many thanks, Brad M
 
Prepare to expand your politically incorrect vocabulary, when you start working with S90V. ;) :D

Super wear resistance has to come with a cost, and in this case it does; it eats belts like they're going out of style.


On top of that, I really don't care for the edge taking ability of S90V. I'm pretty good at sharpening knives, and I was never really able to get the same scary sharp edge on S90V blades, as I was with other quality knife blade steels.
 
Don't worry, there's still a few symbols left on the keyboard, after that I'll find a way to improvise.

Should I not bother with s90v? I currently use cpm 154cm and s30v and get it shaving sharp with good edge holding, but I hear stories of people skinning a lifetime of deer without ever touching up the edge on s90v. If you rarely ever have to sharpen it, does it justify the difficulty in obtaining edge? Maybe I should just shut up and grind 154 and not think about it.
 
not worked with s90v yet but i can tell you cpm10v is some fun super steel to play with. i still have not got the balls up to workwith the s125v that was given to me to try
we will see how the 10v goes and if so i may jsut be ready for a super edge holding folder s90 or s125
 
Brad, I make about 30 knives a year with S90V. For long term edge holding on abrasive materials like elk hide and hair and pig bristles it is a great choice. To work it has to be RC 60 range. Hard enough so the edge won't roll and keep the carbides up there where the wear resistance can come into play. Heat treating is a problem. Paul Bos usally declines to do it, the higher temp required is hard on furnances. I do a few now and then for other makers but don't want to get into the heat treat business.

I don't have a problem getting a good edge on it. Shaving sharp is possible but I have found it works best with a more toothy edge like what you get from a fine diamond or Silicon Carbide stone. Strop on loaded leather to remove the burr. It is hard on belts but with the right grit size and abrasives in is not horrible. If you get into it and want more info give me a call... PHIL
 
Butch, I seem to remember a post where you said "I fear no steel" This was right after I sent the CPM 125V to you. It is possible to make a blade out of it--- at the extreme end of what is possible I think. After you make it let me know how you sharpened it. I am still working on that.. PHIL
 
Phil Wilson said:
Butch, I seem to remember a post where you said "I fear no steel" This was right after I sent the CPM 125V to you. It is possible to make a blade out of it--- at the extreme end of what is possible I think. After you make it let me know how you sharpened it. I am still working on that.. PHIL
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a post like this froma man as knowing of this steel has me a bit worried
its a problem of not haveing the right folder shape to put it in right now and nothing more
after working that 10v tho i know i ll have to ahve the blade at around 90% finished befor heat
 
Butch, Its possible to grind it after heat treat, Norton hoggers or blaze will work. use Silicon Carbide belts to finish and leave the belt finish on it. Stop at about 220. You will get about 2 passes per side before the belt goes dead. Don't feel bad, I have a pc of CPM 15V that I have been looking at for 3 years. don't have the energy to tackle it. PHIL
 
been working 10v today and killing belts i think jsut by showing them the blade ahhaahahh i know how it feels
15v no thanks :)
 
15V has like half of the toughness of 10V too, and I don't even know if anyone has ever used it. No point in going any higher than 10V, IMO. Not any point in using 10V in the first place. :p
 
CPM seems to be turning out some very good steel when their heat treated well, I suggest you give it a try and tell us how it goes. :D
 
Larrin said:
15V has like half of the toughness of 10V too, and I don't even know if anyone has ever used it. No point in going any higher than 10V, IMO. Not any point in using 10V in the first place. :p
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I have always been curious to 15V, I really wan't to see somethin' made with it, would be neat to play with. :D

EDIT : would probably make a great light use hunting knife. Good long lasting edge. :D
 
Phil Wilson said:
Butch, Its possible to grind it after heat treat, Norton hoggers or blaze will work. use Silicon Carbide belts to finish and leave the belt finish on it. Stop at about 220. You will get about 2 passes per side before the belt goes dead. Don't feel bad, I have a pc of CPM 15V that I have been looking at for 3 years. don't have the energy to tackle it. PHIL
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ever use the gator belts 3m makes (sorta a 2x72 inch flexy stone grinder they are holding up well)
the A300 works great sadly i have to then jump to a A100 i need some of the A180 i hear about to move things along faster
 
Guys, I'm really curious about this. I'm a big fan of regular carbon steel knives due to their toughness and ease of resharpening. When experienced makers say a steel frightens their belts into submission, it sets off big red flashing lights and warning bells in my mind.

I understand the appeal of edge-retention. But if the steel is that much of a b***h to grind, how's Joe Schmoe going to sharpen it when it does get dull?

I'm not arguing or trying to piss anyone off, these are just honest questions from a beginner. :)
 
GibsonFan said:
But if the steel is that much of a b***h to grind, how's Joe Schmoe going to sharpen it when it does get dull?

......, these are just honest questions from a beginner. :)
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A very insightful beginner! ;) :thumbup:

Rob!
 
Gibson, 10V, 15V and 125V were developed originally for plastic extrusion dies. Plastic is very abrasive and if you can get 100% longer use then it will more than pay for itself in that application. 10v in fact makes a great knife blade and I think it is worth the effort. CPM 125 V and 15V may not be worth the extra effort and expense. Phil
 
diamond realy are a guys best friend
but realy i sharpen all knives i sell and with the steels we are talkign about i dont think that i have to worry about them comming back for touching up all that often
 
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