S90V vs S110V vs M390 Steel?

testosterone325 said:
When I read it I was actually laughing out loud. Back when I had my manix 2 in S110V I found it pretty difficult to sharpen. I pictured myself trying to sharpen it on rock after batoning with it.
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As someone with an extensive amount of experience with S110V and the other high alloy steels I can say it only takes seconds to touch them up and get them back to extremely sharp.

Usually a few light passes on a ceramic rod will do it...

The only thing that takes takes time is changing the edge geometry, after that it's very simple and quick after the primary bevel is set.
 
Ankerson said:
As someone with an extensive amount of experience with S110V and the other high alloy steels I can say it only takes seconds to touch them up and get them back to extremely sharp.

Usually a few light passes on a ceramic rod will do it...

The only thing that takes takes time is changing the edge geometry, after that it's very simple and quick after the primary bevel is set.
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When I first started using ZDP, M390, M4 and the like, I got DMT hones since I thought I'd need to do some serious work every time I sharpened. After a while I just started using a couple swipes on a Spyderco F or UF rod and I'm back to shaving sharp without any effort at all.
 
calc said:
When I first started using ZDP, M390, M4 and the like, I got DMT hones since I thought I'd need to do some serious work every time I sharpened. After a while I just started using a couple swipes on a Spyderco F or UF rod and I'm back to shaving sharp without any effort at all.
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Yeah they are VERY simple to maintain as long as people don't over think it. :D

Sadly a lot of people tend to do so though....
 
S110V

Ive been using mine to chop up fish (including frozen baitfish), plants, make stakes for a stringer, gardening and dispose of amazon prime boxes for months and it hasn't noticed.


I also bought some small diamond sharpeners for camping/travel. Havent used them yet but diamonds always win.
 
Ankerson said:
As someone with an extensive amount of experience with S110V and the other high alloy steels I can say it only takes seconds to touch them up and get them back to extremely sharp.

Usually a few light passes on a ceramic rod will do it...

The only thing that takes takes time is changing the edge geometry, after that it's very simple and quick after the primary bevel is set.
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Yeah exactly when I reprofiled my Manix 2 it seemed to take forever and I used dmt 120 grit stone which usually cuts metal really fast on my other knives. That's what I was referring to when I said I found it difficult to sharpen. Every time I would check the edge and it wasn't quite there yet, I kept asking myself "how much more is it going to take!?". I don't know it just seemed to take forever. However I must admit, I am by no means an expert sharpener and it could have very well been my technique. After I that though I used the Sharpmaker fine rods to touch up and that was a quick process.
 
Although I have not used my S110V in a hard use situation yet, I have to completely agree with Jim Ankerson's assessment that for normal usage it comes back to shaving sharp with no extra effort whatsoever using my brown rods on the sharp maker. I have been using it on normal day to day items including a fair amount of cardboard and it just pops back to scary sharp in a snap.
Let me also add this. When I first bought my LW Manix from a private party, it was said to be brand new. When I opened the box a 1/4" shiny spot on the edge jumped right out at me. Looking at the blade through my 30x loupe revealed tip damage also. The whole problem was fixed in less than 10 minutes free handing the tip with the brown rods and a few passes on the sharp maker. Not much of a issue at all.
Cheers...
 
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I think your all crazy. If I pay two hundred for a top line folder Im sure as hell not chopping wood with it. Go to walmart , buy an axe for twenty dollars..
 
ArabianKnight said:
I am looking at a blade steel for my next custom overbuilt folder. Between these 3 stainless super steels which offers best bang for buck, looking for edge retention and toughness. Need to be able to chop wood, typical "hard use" tasks and not chip or get dull to soon.
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If you want a stainless supersteel get Elmax which is like a cousin of m390 but with a little less wear resistance in exchange for a huge boost in toughness.

Apparently Elmax is one of the toughest stainless supersteels.

3v is tougher still but not stainless. I think on most folder length blades and especially an overbuilt one Elmax is probably what I would go with.

Chopping with even an overbuilt folder really isn’t a great idea.
 
For the tasks you described, go with m390

I like s110v a lot but IMO it is better for usual edc tasks

Not a fan of s90v... prefer either a good s35vn or a s110v for edc
 
Lapedog said:
If you want a stainless supersteel get Elmax which is like a cousin of m390 but with a little less wear resistance in exchange for a huge boost in toughness.

Apparently Elmax is one of the toughest stainless supersteels.

3v is tougher still but not stainless. I think on most folder length blades and especially an overbuilt one Elmax is probably what I would go with.

Chopping with even an overbuilt folder really isn’t a great idea.
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Not anymore, Hail Vanax
 
Therom said:
Not a fan of s90v... prefer either a good s35vn or a s110v for edc
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Looks like we are going to take the shock paddles to this four year old thread.
Not holding my breath . . .
but I grabbed onto it to see what everyone had to say about S90V.
I only have one blade with it so I don't know squat.
Please tell me your dislikes of S90V (and likes).
Personally I'm not a fan of S110V or S35V though I don't hate S35V I think I would rather just have S30V.

So anyone and everyone tell me about S90V or some good links to some enlightening info.
Personally I'm drawn to it over S110V because I tend to appreciate the alloys that are less stainless because they seem to sharpen sweet and cut better. (for me).
 
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