Saber vs full flat vs convex vs scandi? Give me your pros and cons........

Bobber

Bobber

Joined
Sep 2, 2009
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What grind do you prefer in what type knife? Chopper, bushcraft, EDC, folder, mid size etc...
Tell us why you prefer what you prefer....

Everyone like different things and they have good reasons for their choice, why and for what reasons have always
interessted me.
Maybe all of us can learn something new in this thread...
 
I like full height convex for everything, as thin as possible. I haven't found anything that works better for any uses I have.
 
I prefer a convex on everything, because it does everything I need it to do at least good - and most of them excellent. I also find them easier to sharpen if they are convexed.
 
Ah convex, anyone else awake to chime in on this, could be of great help for some of the newer members and guests in here too.
Allways one of the greatest subjects of confusion this...
 
Not as simple a question as it might seem on the surface. The grind affects sectional geometry and volume, and the style is only one factor. Stock thickness and the actual grind angles play a huge factor as well. It's actually possible to have a saber grind and full flat grind in the same stock thickness and have the saber grind have a thinner geometry if the full flat grind is only shallowly executed (thus making the edge bevel very visually broad) and the saber grind is high and narrow. :)
 
That`s something like what I was thinking about Fourty...
Look at the Ontario Spec Plus line of knives... All of the models are delivered as full flat grind or saber grind, so that is an example of "why should I buy this grind over the other?"

The answers will be different from person to person, so I am looking forward to even more answers (both personal preferens and technical descriptions..)
 
No matter what the style of grind, thickness just behind the edge is the greatest determinant of cutting power. Thinner cuts better. This has to be balanced by the fact that thicker near the edge resists damage from lateral forces. Every knife needs some blend of cutting power and durability in the face of lateral forces. How much of each attribute will be determined by parameters of use, including the skill of the user(s).

I have knives I would love to thin out but I am chicken to do it because my uses apply some lateral forces - heck, all uses do - and I hate to see massive failure. I say chicken because I suspect I could do just fine going thinner.
 
Heat treatment plays a huge role in how thin you can go and still withstand lateral strain. Machetes are a good example. :)
 
I would think that if you have two knives with the same profile, but one is full flat and the other is saber.
One would be a better cutter/slicer, and the other would be better for chopping/splitting due to weight and heft?
 
I believe You can say it something like this:

The blade can be Full Height, Saber or Scandi.
A Full Height can be either Convex,Flat or Hollow and it's the same with Saber or Scandi grind.

The norm for Full Height Flat grind is an edge with primary and secondary bevels.
A Full Height can also be flat in the sides of the blade and have a Convex cutting edge.
This can be applied on Saber and Scandi as well.

The above is just a start as there are a lot of other parameters to considder like Spinethickness and Edgespinethickness.

I'll stop here not to make a wall of info at once.


Regards
Mikael
 
Bobber said:
I would think that if you have two knives with the same profile, but one is full flat and the other is saber.
One would be a better cutter/slicer, and the other would be better for chopping/splitting due to weight and heft?
Click to expand...

Yes, You are thinking along the right lines!
If the Saber also is flat and have enough edgespine thickness,it would have more metal behind the cutting edge than a FFG with the same Edgespine thickness.

If You convex the cutting edge You will get both more metal behind the edge and given the curve is right, also a minimized resistance through the material being cut.

Regards
Mikael
 
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Yes, I just got the sp50 and sp51 from Ontario, they are the same bladeshape, but ffg and saber. Quarter inch thick at the spine both of them....
Talk about two entirely different knives, wow...
 
Bobber said:
Yes, I just got the sp50 and sp51 from Ontario, they are the same bladeshape, but ffg and saber. Quarter inch thick at the spine both of them....
Talk about two entirely different knives, wow...
Click to expand...

I have seen them online but no personal experience with them.

You mention 1/4" thick spine and this is beefy!

Now, for chopping the Edgespine is of more importance for edgeholding than the thickness at the Spine.
Compare with thin machetes as Fourtytwo says.
Machetes are thin at the spine but edgspine is thick enough for chopping.

You can measure edgespine with calipers or by a 1/8" wide and 3/8" deep cut in a piece of wood.
Check the difference in how much the edge fillout the cut, to determine the amount of metal in the edge.
More metal means more support of Carbides in the edge = better when chopping.
If You also polish the edge, You will get even more support of the Carbides.

Too much metal means the edge feels dull or will glance.


I'm by no means fully educated in these things, but this is some thoughts I have had during the years.

Regards
Mikael
 
Thanks mikael, I love both knives, but for chopping and splitting I tend to choose the saber. As for more fine work, like foodprep and cutting I bring the full flat...
 
Bobber said:
Thanks mikael, I love both knives, but for chopping and splitting I tend to choose the saber. As for more fine work, like foodprep and cutting I bring the full flat...
Click to expand...

That sounds like a good idea and Congrats to the new knives!


Regards
Mikael
 
They are both great and I think this has to be amongst the top bang for your bucks I've ever had, lol....
 
Convex is my favorite grind, I like it for all sizes of fixed blade knives large to small. Amazing grind imho. Scandi is great for smaller knives and is amazing for carving (as is convex). Saber is great for larger blades that need strength behind the edge. Flat grind I don't have experience too much in but could also function well in all types of blades.
 
I have a couple of convex knives, but have never gotten to like them. Maybe because I'm Scandinavian, or just haven't used them enough, haha...
Too much steel to play with, so I'll have to take them out for playing around some more, and see if they grow on me lol...
 
Convex edges can be confusing for a lot of folks. They come in all manner of thick and thin just like other grinds, but are actually thinner at the edge shoulder than other grinds providing both that the stock thickness and edge angle are held constant.
 
Sulaco said:
I like full height convex for everything, as thin as possible. I haven't found anything that works better for any uses I have.
Click to expand...

TheGame said:
I prefer a convex on everything, because it does everything I need it to do at least good - and most of them excellent. I also find them easier to sharpen if they are convexed.
Click to expand...

I am with these two fine gentlemen :thumbup:
Full height convex is superb, robust, durable, easy to maintain.
I like it thinner (small angle on smaller knives) and thicker on choppers.

Full Flat is next best thing

scandi is traditional so I can live with it too

I do not get Saber at all

Hollow grind should not be used on knives (even CRK is moving out of it).
 
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