Saber vs full flat vs convex vs scandi? Give me your pros and cons........

Saber - I haven't used this grind enough to make an opinion.

Full Flat - If the blade geometry is good, it's probably one of my favorite edc grinds.

Convex - I think these are better suited for choppers or axes.

Scandi - I have a few Moras and they seem to perform well with wood work, tho I don't use them often enough to have a solid opinion.

Hollow grind - I prefer these over full flat for edc because I don't need to thin out the edge as I sharpen the knife. A full flat might add strength, but in my uses I don't necessarily need that added strength. But I do like not having to thin out the edge.
 
Assuming the proportions and geometry are right for the expected uses I don't think it really matters much. Saber-grind is probably least desired for all uses.
 
I usually take all my knives to the Tormek after first time use, I almost always find the grind angle too steep, I like to whittle and cut no matter what knife I carry to the woods.
Every knife should be able to make fuzz-sticks. (me thinks)..

But I do prefer a heavy knife for chopping and splitting, so there I have the sabers.
For foodprep and slicing i prefer and use full flat.
For woodwork and whittling I use mora and Hultafors knives at work every day, so I`m almost never bringing one to the woods, hehe..
Convex I have some of, both custom and factory, but never seem to bring them as I`ve never gotten comfortable with them (need to try more).
Hollowgrind I have only on my SOG Tech Bowie, and have actually never used it in at all, sticks to fast when I try it on wood...

Many good remarks and comments from you all, KEEP IT COMMING, this is interesting reading for a knifenut with no real knowledge other than what I`ve tested and
learned to like, haha
 
OrdnanceBubbaUSMC said:
Assuming the proportions and geometry are right for the expected uses I don't think it really matters much. Saber-grind is probably least desired for all uses.
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This. Cross sectional geometry trumps specific grind.

Grinds can be:

Flat/Hollow/Convex

Full-height/Saber/Chisel

Zero/Compound Bevel

Mix and match from each category. A scandi, for instance, is simply a term used to denote a zero saber grind. While commonly a scandi is thought of as a flat zero saber grind, convex and concave exist and are still scandis. Moras, for instance--the classical go-to example people use for scandis--commonly have a slight hollow to them from the factory.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
This. Cross sectional geometry trumps specific grind.

Grinds can be:

Flat/Hollow/Convex

Full-height/Saber/Chisel

Zero/Compound Bevel

Mix and match from each category. A scandi, for instance, is simply a term used to denote a zero saber grind. While commonly a scandi is thought of as a flat zero saber grind, convex and concave exist and are still scandis. Moras, for instance--the classical go-to example people use for scandis--commonly have a slight hollow to them from the factory.
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Well said FourtyTwo!
This is the basics around differrent bladegrinds.

Cross-sectional geometry is fundamental together with heat-treat and type of steel.

:thumbup:
Mikael
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Convex edges can be confusing for a lot of folks. They come in all manner of thick and thin just like other grinds, but are actually thinner at the edge shoulder than other grinds providing both that the stock thickness and edge angle are held constant.
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1) Listen to what this man says! :) The most common misunderstanding about convex edges is that they are somehow thicker. They aren't. Draw a vee. Fit a convex edge in that vee. Simple.

2) Thinner slices better than thicker.

3) I happen to like a full flat grind with a convex edge. (Which is what most "convex" knives are, by the way.) I just find convex easier to maintain...it takes advantage of the fact that you cant hold your knife at the same angle (without a jig) every sharpening stroke.
 
Exactly. It's possible to have a convex that's thicker at the spine than a "V" and have the same edge angle OR it's possible to have a convex that's the same stock thickness and thicker at the edge, but it'll have a more broad edge angle. In neither case is the actual edge simultaneously stronger and as effective a cutter. It's always a tradeoff!
 
marcinek said:
1) Listen to what this man says! :) The most common misunderstanding about convex edges is that they are somehow thicker. They aren't. Draw a vee. Fit a convex edge in that vee. Simple.
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Well, that's certainly possible if all things are not held equal -- and they often are not. But you can also draw a convex edge and draw a V edge inside it.

The advantage of a V edge is that, all things held equal, the V edge will have a more acute angle and cut better. The convex edge, all things held equal, will be more durable. So as a general rule, the V edge cuts better and the convex edge is more durable, but you can change various aspects of the blade/edge geometry and prove the rule wrong.
 
The most common misunderstanding about the convex edge is that it is something precise, like a V edge is precise if created with a guided device, such as the EdgePro or the Wicked Edge. In reality, the convex edge is crafted by hand, and people craft it in a lot of different ways. You never hear about people putting a 30-degree convex edge on a blade. People just do it by feel. They don’t know what the edge angle is. It may be 30 degrees or 40 degrees or 50 degrees or different degrees on each side.

You can also create a hybrid V/convex edge, where you start with an acute V edge and then round off the shoulders of the V edge. This technique narrows and raises the edge shoulders, giving you an effectively thinner blade at the initial cutting point.
 
Twindog said:
Well, that's certainly possible if all things are not held equal -- and they often are not. But you can also draw a convex edge and draw a V edge inside it.
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Yes. And that convex edge will have a more obtuse angle than the V edge.
 
marcinek said:
Yes. And that convex edge will have a more obtuse angle than the V edge.
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Yup! This. Pay attention to the effect on edge angle and remember that you're not dealing with a straight-up wedge shape--that would be a zero full flat grind! So you have to take the presence of the presumed stock thickness into account.
 
Edge thickness, blade shape and overall geometry is what I find to be more important then what grind it has. How the belly is formed, where it's formed, how the handle presents the blade when held in the hand, how thin the transition is from the primary grind to the edge grind, etc... all have an effect on performance. I use saber, full flat, convex, and scandi and they all work. I will say that I find scandi's less ideal for general use as they tend to wedge material apart instead of cutting the material apart. On thin scandi's (sub 3/32" thick) it's not much of an issue but if you've ever tried to use a 1/8" thick scandi in the kitchen along side ANY other grind, you'll quickly favor the other grinds IMO.

That said I find I'm drawn more toward convex then any other but it's more for how it looks then anything. So, buy what you like. :D
 
Shotgun said:
Edge thickness, blade shape and overall geometry is what I find to be more important then what grind it has. How the belly is formed, where it's formed, how the handle presents the blade when held in the hand, how thin the transition is from the primary grind to the edge grind, etc... all have an effect on performance. I use saber, full flat, convex, and scandi and they all work. I will say that I find scandi's less ideal for general use as they tend to wedge material apart instead of cutting the material apart. On thin scandi's (sub 3/32" thick) it's not much of an issue but if you've ever tried to use a 1/8" thick scandi in the kitchen along side ANY other grind, you'll quickly favor the other grinds IMO.

That said I find I'm drawn more toward convex then any other but it's more for how it looks then anything. So, buy what you like. :D
Click to expand...

Another good post. :):thumbup:
 
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