sak problem

I attach my Vic Farmer's lanyard to my small carabiner keychain, which dangles from my belt above the bottom of my pocket. That keeps it from rolling around in the dirt, dust, lint, etc., that accumulates esp. when hiking or backpacking. It can still get dirty but not nearly as much as when it sits in the bottom of my pocket. (I'll also never lose it that way.)

You could also keep it in a thin leather or cloth pocket slip, or a belt sheath.
 
shecky said:
I've never found WD40 to damage cellidor.
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I had it react the one time I used it, it left my thumbprint in the Cellidor wherre is caused it to dissolve on the surface, so I never used it again.

Maybe there was something else already on the knife that reacted with the WD-40.

I may take an old one and test it to see.

Normally the only thing I ever use to clean out a SAK is just hot water and an old toothbrush, them Rem-Oil.
 
I've had a few knives get rough even after being cleaned, a tiny dab of moly past worked into the joints then cleaned off works well for me. It seems to happen mostly on stainless knives in my experiance as well.
 
has anyone else heard of or used the "white lightening" wax lubricant? it was developed just for knives to my understanding. i have used it. it seems to do well. it is not supposed to attract and hold dirt and grit like regular oils will. and i do not like wd-40 for knives. it is too thin and gets into places where oil is not supposed to be, even under the scales.,,,VWB.
 
I use White Lightning. It even has a very convenient dispenser with a syringe tp to get it exactly where you need it. It's a companion product to Tuff-Cloth. Both good, they don't attract gunk.
 
Anyone tried Nanolube? I've heard talk of it on another thread (or perhaps on that other knife forum) for exactly this same problem. It seemed like a miracle lube.
 
vwb563 said:
has anyone else heard of or used the "white lightening" wax lubricant? it was developed just for knives to my understanding. i have used it. it seems to do well. it is not supposed to attract and hold dirt and grit like regular oils will. and i do not like wd-40 for knives. it is too thin and gets into places where oil is not supposed to be, even under the scales.,,,VWB.
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I tried White Lightening for awhile, it works fine on folders that you use a lot and open and close the blades often. But in my experience if left in folders that sat in storage for long periods, the wax set up and became like bits of candle wax.
 
shipwreck said:
Thanks for all the good advice, I apologize if I came across snide, or something.And to be honest now Im releaved, what would I do without my trekker?, holy cow, some real panic for a while there. So far though it has always operated great, without any problems.
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No problems i'm sure no-one here took offense! the trekker is a good knife isn't it? I use mine every day, that and the Vic Compact are my main edc's.
 
I'm going to try sheath carrying my knife and see if that helps....I hope it works out the vic farmer comes very close to being my perfect knife..
 
I've got that problem after trying my spartan in a puch at an army surplus place. It must have been dusty because I've got some kind of grit in the joints now.
 
1. According to Victorinox SAKs are dishwasher safe (some people have reported lightening of the scales), though no comment on top or bottom rack. I have used the Dishwasher to clean 5 Huntsman without scales they are the cleanest SAKs I have ever seen.

2. Though oil is recommended a number of people have never oiled their SAKs and had no problems at all, in fact they have commented that the SAKs stay cleaner because the pocket grit/lint does not stick to the knife.

3. If Victorinox is unable to help you may be able to have a modder take them apart, clean them and put them back together (this will void your warranty). Alternatively a modder may be willing to trade/buy them to use as parts, you might even be able to get a custom SAK.

4. If all else fails sell them on eBay.
 
MIKE MACINTOSH said:
Hey guys
Do you think this is part of the normal break in process most cars , guns, machine's require a certain amount of use/ time for parts to settle in (break in)?reguardless I would clean and oil as other's have recommended.
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:thumbup:
Theres likely some truth in this statement as well.
 
I haven't tried this, but I imagine an ultrasound cleaner would work very well for this. I have used them in the past for cleaning jewellery and watch bracelets. It really gets the muck out of tight places.

I doubt it could do any harm. I don't have one anymore (need to get another one day) but any jewellers should have one. They are sold quite cheaply these days.
 
I just ordered some of the nanolube. i will post a review on it as soon as i am able to.,,,VWB.
 
RescueRiley said:
thaks for the help guys... I'm also going to contact victorinox directly
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Let us know what they tell you. I'm real interested in your problem with that Victorinox Farmer. See if Victorinox has any specific recommendations for lubricants to use.
 
Two of the suggestions here that sound good to me are the use of an ultrasound cleaner (I'd use water and dish detergent in it rather than any kind of solvent) and then lubing folders with a dab of moly paste. I honestly had not thought about moly grease in a number of years, but we used to use it in certain critical applications on turbine engines, the splines on the shafts of starter/generators, for example. We had about a pint can of molybdenum disulfide grease we kept in our specialty locker in the hangar at the airport where I worked. It was some black, really nasty-looking grease, but it sure was a good high pressure and extreme temperature lubricant. We simply did not change a starter/generator without using it. There was no acceptable substitute. I'll have to get my paws on a little of it again sometime.
 
Dr. Mudd said:
Two of the suggestions here that sound good to me are the use of an ultrasound cleaner (I'd use water and dish detergent in it rather than any kind of solvent) and then lubing folders with a dab of moly paste. I honestly had not thought about moly grease in a number of years, but we used to use it in certain critical applications on turbine engines, the splines on the shafts of starter/generators, for example. We had about a pint can of molybdenum disulfide grease we kept in our specialty locker in the hangar at the airport where I worked. It was some black, really nasty-looking grease, but it sure was a good high pressure and extreme temperature lubricant. We simply did not change a starter/generator without using it. There was no acceptable substitute. I'll have to get my paws on a little of it again sometime.
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Hi Dr Mudd, airgun dealers are a good place to pic up a small can of moly paste, only a few bucks and enough for tons of knives.
 
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