Sanding Regimen & Finish for wood

S

Stu Goodner

Joined
Aug 10, 2009
Messages
3
In my one month of making handles for knives I have learned a valuable lesson; it is easier to not let the sander touch the blade than to try to sand out the marks. It does raise a question though, what is a normal sanding/buffing regimen for both handles and blades. What is the norm for grit before progressing to the buffing wheel, and then is white to red buffing compound sufficient?

Second question, the buffing compound makes a nice waxed look on the mesquite and ironwood grips I have been making, but is it enough protection? Should I use something like a linseed oil, and will that absorb into the wood after the buffing compound?

Thanks for the insight.

Stu
 
I rough out the handles with a 36 grit on the 2 x 72 and then hand sand, I start with some 1" strips of 80 -220 grit and then go to cut sheets of 320+. I dont buff anything, if I want a shiny surface I sand to 1500, then tung oil, or teak oil.

I am not sure oil after buffing would do any good, most likely the wax will seal the pores and you will not get any penetration.
 
I stay away from the buffing wheel when it comes to wooden handles. Wood is made up of fibers lying in many directions, especially if you are working with burls and other figured material.
I find the buffing wheels loaded with grease stick tends to smear the surface of the wood leaving low spots and smudges.
Give the following a try:
Once the wood is sanded to a 6 or 8 hundred grit; take a 1/4" round brass rod and use it to burnish the surface of the handle. Use some pressure as you run the rod along the surface. This technique is used to "align" the fibers at the surface of the handle. Next use a 9 to 10 ounce piece of leather, on edge, to burnish the surface. Finish out with a piece of Levi material. Try this, I think you will be surprised at the results.
It will bring out all of the beauty, the wood has to offer.

Fred
 
Thank you for the input.


That is a fascinating technique, will it work equally well on bone and horn?
 
Stu Goodner said:
Thank you for the input.


That is a fascinating technique, will it work equally well on bone and horn?
Click to expand...

If you are working with bone or horn, skip the brass rod and use leather to burnish the surface, do this after the handle is fitted and sanded. If you follow the burnishing of stag or any type of antler with ridges in it; with a stiff toothbrush along the ridges, the character, of the horn, will stand out more.

A great handle makes for a great knife.

Fred
 
Fred, I have to say thank you for that tip! Working on a multi-piece handle of koa and will definitely try that technique! I usually sand down to 600-800 and then buff butt have found the problem you noted. Thank you again!
 
Wow Fred , that is very interesting . I have always done a light buff on a loose cotton wheel with a greasless diamond white compound and then finished with a hand rub with lambs wool . I like the results but have noticed some voids at times . I like the brass rod trick , my little brain can see what that is doing to the wood .
 
i like to sand wood out to about 600 grit and use either birdchwood and casey tru oil or general finishes salad bowl finish.

the tru oil soaks in pretty deep and after a few layers and some light steel wool work you can fill in all of those little voids and have a super nice finish. if you like it glossy leave it on thick at the end, if not just make sure you use some 0000 steel wool to buff off all the gloss.

the salad bowl finish does the same thing but it seems to penetrate the wood better and not sit on the surface like the tru oil can after two coats. you can tell it's really getting in there, but you can still build up that gloss if you like it.

i used the tru oil on these gun grips and sanded off the gloss.... super nice

IMG_1966.jpg
 
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