Sanding sequence?

i4Marc

i4Marc

Joined
Oct 19, 2011
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Curious how you guys progress through the sanding process. Not necessarily equipment or technique(sand this direction then that, make sure all previous grit marks are erased, lubricate with windex or WD40, etc. - I have 10 grits of sand papers going up through 2500 grit. I have made a couple of different sanding supports with adjustable support screws and a vise as well as a few shaped sanding sticks.) but which surfaces in what order? After your blade is heat treated and ground and you are ready to hand sand which surfaces do you tackle first and is there a particular reason why? I would think the profile or edge surfaces would be cleaned up followed by the side flats then the main bevels then finish with the swedge. I am starting to hand sand a batch of blades and I would like to be as efficient as possible with my time and effort so I'm interested in hearing how you more seasoned makers do it.
 
First off, there are about 100 right ways to do it; you have to find out what works for you. I only make carbon steel knives right now, so can't say whether this applies to any stainless steels or not but it works on O-1 and 1084, for me, with my set-ups. YMMV. Blade has a 120 grit belt finish before heat treat, do any post heat treat clean-up and decarb removal with 120 grit belt, clean up with 220 gator. Then 120 grit hand sand on blade bevels first, then flats (different directions on bevels than flats), then 220, then 400, then 800, stopping here on most working knives. On some I go to 1500 and 2000, again changing directions with each grit and each surface. the profile is very close to final at 120 grit before heat treat but final profile sanding is done as part of the handle sanding, for me. I have recently dropped back to 120 grit for the first hand sanding step and this has made it easier to get all of the belt scratches out before moving on to the next grit. I used to start hand sanding at 220 grit and usually got lazy and moved up before all of the belt scratches were gone.

randy
 
Thanks Randy. I'm having a little trouble keeping my bevels nice and flat on the belt sander over ~320 grit so I leave my bevels at 120 grit or so post HT. I know I'll have to do more work at the hand sanding stage but that's what I have to do until my grinding technique gets a little better. So right now I'm starting my hand sanding at 220-240 grit to get all the machine marks out and get everything flat (my grinds are pretty flat to begin with). I started with the main bevels but after looking at it I wondered if maybe I should have started somewhere else? I'm not sure if it matters where I start but maybe it does. That's why I'm asking. I am not working with stainless yet. I'm working in 01, 5160, 1084, 1075 and 80CrV2.
 
I go 220 on the belt then heat treat. Start with a 220 to remove decarb. The first thing I hit the blade flat with 220 under a stiff sanding stick. This quickly shows you how flat your flats are. If not pretty close I'll go back to 220 or 400 belt and get them as flat as I can then hit again with 220 to see how close they are now. I have put together a disc sander and now usually use that to get them as flat as I can instead of a belt but either one will work. When I'm happy with the flats I will sand the ricasso then the plunge lines up to 400 or 600 then go back to 220 on the bevels and take them up to 400 or 600. I don't sand totally in a different direction with each grit but will change direction as the step for each grit so I have something as a visual reference on the next grit. I find it hard to put even pressure across the blad while sanding at an angle thats why I only go at an angle right before stepping up to the next grit. I do spend most of my sanding time in the plunge lines getting them as near perfect as I possibly can. Because thats where most people who pick up a knife looks first is the plunge lines.
 
Thanks Barry. I have flat and 1˚ taper discs from Nathan and a couple of reversible motors ready to go but I still need to build a pedestal for them. I think I will use them for the initial stages to get the belt marks out and get things really flat but will hand sand from there. How high should I go in grits if I intend to blue the blade with a really deep shine?
 
I haven't blued blades so I'm not sure how high to go up. The only things I have blued (cold blued) are tomahawks and I stopped with a 220 belt finish then blued and they turned out pretty nice, not real shinny but I wasn't going for shinny on them. When I parkerize a blade I take it to 600 or 800 where I would normally stop then parkerize it. You'll love the disc sander when you get it up and running. I built a frame kinda like a box so I can have the disc horizontal or vertical just by flipping it up or down. Very handy that way.
 
Thanks Barry. Can you post a pic or two of your disc sander set up? I was thinking of cannibalizing a trailer jack to use the locking swivel as a way to mount the motors that way with a little twist I could be in either vertical or horizontal mode.
 
Hey Marc here are a few pics of my disc sander set up. Don't laugh at my lack of welding skill.



 
Thanks Barry. Don't worry. You won't get any welding criticism from me. My welds are horrible. Your box design is simple and interesting. I typically over think things. I wasn't sure whether to build a table top set up or make a pedestal. After seeing your design I am leaning now towards a table top rig. My motors are 115v reversible Leesons. I would have loved variable speed but that would have been too expensive. So I chose 1750 rpm motors instead of 3450 rpm models. At least it will give me a bit more control. Are you using a flat or tapered disc?
 
That is a tapered disc from Nathan. I thought about using some type of hinge system to flip it horizental and vertical but it is heavy enough it really isn't needed. I haven't had it move much when using it to flatten a blade since I mostly use 220 paper on it. It has moved some when using 120 paper and I was pushing hard but I am over all happy with the way it turned out. Now I just need to learn to really use it to its potential.
 
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