Sanding Snakewood sucks !!!!! any thoughts ?

RDT

RDT

Joined
Dec 17, 1999
Messages
4,117
I have been trying my hand at the knife making art and since I love the look of snakewood I decided to buy some and use it for scales to a damascus piece I have been working on. However, it turned out to be such a pain to work with that I almost don't want to bother with it anymore. The block I bought which cost like $40. by the way, is basically unusable now because I tried to add some texture and grip to it by making simple finger grooves. It came out less thatn perfect so I refuse to use it on this knife now. Is there anyway to make it easier to use or some kinda technique to using it that I am unaware of. Please, someone enlighten me. I have used cocobolo and maple G10 and micarta (which also is a b**ch to grind), These were much easier to use. Especially the G10, that stuff's a dream !Thanks......RDT

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RDT.
 
I think you need to be more specific about the problems you're having. Is the snakewood burning, or splintering, or warping, or shrinking?

Slow speeds and sharp abrasives can help a lot of these problems. You still might need to hand sand it to get a nice finish.

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Tom Anderson
Hand Crafted Knives


www.andersoncustomknives.com
 
Snakewood is very dense (1.3 specific gravity)and the cell structure contains lignum that makes Snakewood very stiff. It is very dulling on tools, also, but you can grind to your shape with a new 50 grit sand belt. A clean, new 50 grit belt will carry particals away and with a gentle touch, will not overheat the wood. Snakewood, because of it's density does not dissapate heat well and is easily heat-fractured when overheated. After general shaping switch to a used 50 grit for final contouring. When you have the shape you want, proceed with final sanding up to 800 grit plus or whatever your "look" is and polish. A good super glue finish is advisable. Most Snakewood is not completely dry when marketed, so make sure you get a dry piece to work with or it will crack for sure. Snakewood takes years of slow, careful drying to become usable.
 
Thanks Tom and Larry, yeah I use a 50 grit brand new to start but it does burn like tha dickens abd it does stress out and fracture. The speed is slow too. Maybe I have a heavy hand or something...I probably do. However it splinters and cracks here and there. The final finish I used an 800 grit belt then hand finished at 1000. It looks fine at first glance then as you look closer to where the pin holes are for pinning the scales to the knife, you see light splitered sections. Darn it !

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RDT.
 
One thing that helps when drilling material like this is to use some type of hardwood backer - like rock maple. This helps keep the pressure created by the point of the drill bit from splintering the material as it breaks through.

Saturating the area to be drilled with superglue before drilling will also help prevent splintering. (Sort of a "localized stabilization!")

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Tom Anderson
Hand Crafted Knives


www.andersoncustomknives.com
 
Technique!

When drilling all hardwoods, notice how the debris loads up the drill and sticks to it. This builds up on the bit, swells and smokes, and weakens the hole, sometimes splitting the wood.

Drill with a sharp bit, and drill slow, removing the bit often, even clearing it with a small wire brush. You don't want to ruin that expensive wood.
Treat it like drilling metal, even reaming for a perfect fit.

When rough grinding, go very slow. Do not attempt this without a variable speed grinder, and a brand new, sharp, open coat belt. Any loading at all will create heat. Apply almost no pressure to your grind, let the machine do the work. Pay considerable attention to external curves, it is easy to concentrate a lot of pressure on those high points! And always hand finish after 180 grit. Take your time, use a pressure stick, this wood is worth it.

If there is excess moisture in the piece, you are basically screwed. I have bought hardwoods before that continue to shrink, twist, and check for five years!

The only way to be sure is to accurately weigh your pieces (down the the grain or fraction of a gram) and weigh again in a month. If there is a change in weight, then keep waiting. Nothing is more unprofessional than having a client return a knife because the bolster "sticks out" and cuts his hand...


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Read, Study, Learn, Grow
-DO-
Jay
www.gilanet.com/JayFisher/index.htm
 
RDT, looks like it's all covered here.....especially Jay's approach, "TECHNIQUE". Push forward and please don't let this first attempt discourage you from using Snakewood. The reward of success far outweights an ugly first experience. Fill all your cracks with super glue and sanding dust and keep practicing.

For inspiration, go to my web site, click on "Client's Showcase", and look at the snakewood handle dagger made for me by Anders Hogstrom.
 
Thanks guys !, all th advice will help tremendously. I will continue to use snakewood because it is one of my favoite woods to see on a knife. It's just reallt damn pretty. Take care all.....RDT

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RDT.
 
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