SAnding the coating off....where to start?

Masteroffajitas

Masteroffajitas

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Just sand paper it off? What grit can put a close to mirror polish, but not quite there? I think I'm going to do it.
 
Don't start by sanding the coating off; get a paint stripper from Lowes or Home Depot and you'll save a lot of trouble. Then work your way from ~400 to 1000 grit for a nice polish.
 
Some time ago, I traded a pack or something else for an Ontario RAT-3 that had the finished removed and the guy had coated it with mustard, of all things. It's ugly as a doberman blunt, but has grown on me. I have a RAT-7 that I eventually want to replace with an RC-6 and if I don't trade the RAT-7 off or sell it, I would like to make another slingblade out of it like the 3, "...Mmm-Hmm...biscuits and musturd, and them french fried potaters, Mm-Hmm..." :D
 
Sanding will take forever. Soak it in paint stripper, scrape off the loose coating, and then sand.

Soaking the bare steel in mustard or vinegar makes a dark patina that helps protect the blade from further corrosion. Using the knife in the kitchen will also cause patina quickly.

And just a heads up, mirror polishes do not hide scratches and stain well, so if you plan to use it often and want to keep polished, you'll run into a lot of headaches.

From just normal use, my prototype izula went from this...
IMG_6762.jpg


to this.
IMG_8617.jpg


Personally I think patina adds character.
 
As everyone else has stated, just use a paint scraper to remove the coating. It chips off without too much effort that way. Then run up to a 1000 grit sandpaper for a nice sheen. Fatheadhill and I both blued ours afterward for a protective coating, but the finish stays nice and high.
 
Here's a RC4 and a RAT 3 after stripping with paint stripper and sanding. It really isn't that much trouble to touch up the polish with 1000 grit sandpaper when you need to.
 
Last edited:
XMP said:
Here's a RC4 and a RAT 3 after stripping with paint stripper and sanding. It really isn't that much trouble to touch up the polish with 1000 grit sandpaper when you need to.
Click to expand...

That looks awesome! How long did it take to strip the paint and sand it.
 
XMP, how hard is it to keep the blade rust free? Do you take the handles off a lot to clean underneath? Thanks.
 
I picked up another RC4 in trade and I plan on removing the factory black paint and blue'n it or polishing it have yet to decide...but I will leave paint on under scales to protect the metal .:thumbup:
 
I stripped the coating off my Bill Siegle Cutlass, then re-painted it, and recently re-stripped it....

Before
011008015b.jpg


After
DSCN2421a.jpg


You will need....

Stripper - I use citri-strip and it worked quite well.

Basin/Container - To catch excess stripper, stripper/paint slurry, and to sit knife in, while it stews in stripper. First time, I improvised a container out of aluminum foil.

Gloves - To protect your hands.

Safety Glasses - If you are smart, I was not.

A wire brush - I would suggest a brass wire brush, smaller rather than larger, so that you can get into the cuts in the handle.

Paper Towels or Rags - To wipe stripper/paint slurry off knife.

Goof Off/Oops/White Gas - Solvent to clean blade up when you are finished.

I found that you want to have the work/action happen at normal temperatures, not winter temperatures.... I have done one knife and 2 axes recently, and the first two I did in the garage at winter temperatures, and it was slow. The last piece I did, in the house, and the higher temperature helped.

When I did it, I spread it with the brush (don't use synthetic brushes, I am pretty sure the citri-strip will eat them, it did the foam brush we bought), getting it into all corners and crevices, both sides. Then I sat it there for 30 minutes, or until you remember it. Then I brushed it to loosen paint, then wiped clean. Repeat first step, then clean with solvent, and you should be good to go.
 
Don. The prophile of that rat-3 looks much different than the rc-3. It seems to have less belly than the rc. To your knowledge was the knife reprophiled, or are the two knives just different in that way?
 
I have no idea if the RAT-3 was reprofiled, it cuts like a laser though! I think you would have to ask Jeff Randall to take a look at the pictures and see.
 
I have been pondering the idea of getting another RC4 and taking the coating off. I was originally thinking about the desert tan version since I like the color of the micarta better.

Now, I am wondering if the plastic handle liners on the black blade will protect the handle under the micarta from rust better??? I am also thinking about waxing the handle under the slabs to help also, maybe some cosmoline too???

Any suggestions?
 
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